hi people

i have put a thread in the snake section about my royals breeding

looking good for my first royal breeding

i was just wondering what other people do for example

do you do a 3 day on 3 day off sort of cycle or
in until they have seen locked together then seperate for a break

any answers very welcome

thanks mike

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weekly...
3 on, 4 off (easier to remember)

but, if you get a 12 hour lock on day 1, pull the male out for a 3-4 day break...

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FOR SALE... Royals 08 male pastel08 male 100% het pied (p Kahl)....................08/09 female pins x 3... 210-670gr08 female fires x 4... 400-580gr09 female spider... 180gr09 female normals x 2....................pics and prices (of some) in my FOR SALE albumif they're not there, p.m. me for more info.....................
will p/x for other royals (preferably female)

thanks alan
will do that i think

i have seperated tonight as this mornin they were locked so could of been locked all night

will give him another go sunday/monday

thanks for the advise mike

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i genrally go for 3 on 3 off. if the male has been in with a few ill give him a week or 2 break every couple of months.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by stephenie191 I'm the moist girl ain't i

Quote:

Originally Posted by miss_rawr why am i not moist!! i want to be moist!!!

Royal morphs for sale - http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/snake...ml#post4982579

here are two breeding sheets i have used both and they work every time good luck

Breeding Royal Pythons sheet 1


The ideal breeding size for a female is 1500gms; but the larger the better as producing eggs puts a huge strain on her body, diminishing a large amount of her fat stores and if a female is not in perfect condition she will be put at risk due to her body being robbed of the nutrients, fat & proteins etc which go into egg production.

Most people go with 1500gms as a breeding size, but the larger the female generally the greater the number of eggs produced; and of course the main issue of her being in a much better physical position as the strain will not be as great as it would be on a smaller, less heavy bodied female.

Males can breed from around 500gms, as they can reach sexual maturity at a much earlier age. Obviously there is no particular strain on their bodies as with the females. Males have been known to breed from just under 400gms, but this is very unwise, as although they may mate there is nothing to guarantee they will produce fertile eggs. The best weight for a male to breed from is anything upwards of 800gms as they will be of a much better weight and sperm production will be greatly increased, along with the sexual maturity being of a more advanced 'level' so to speak.

Royals can be bred at any time of the year under the correct stimuli; but many breeders tend to breed them over the winter months. This is due to the fact that a drop in temperature and daylight hours stimulates them to breed; and so is easiest done when temperatures and lighting are naturally lower, providing a perhaps easier and more natural cycle.

Before breeding both the male & female must be in perfect health, shedding well, feeding well and in top all round condition; not to mention you will need to weigh them to ensure they are both at the desired sizes for breeding.

Once all this is confirmed by you, a period of more intense feeding can commence. Just shortening the length between feeds from every 14days to every 10days should be fine (not all people decide to go with this stage; it seems it is just personal choice)... But if your stock are already of good size it isn't necessarily required. I do this with some of my stock, feeding them slightly more intensely for 3-4 weeks...

After this I stop all feeding and wait for them to digest their last meal (this is very important as the next step in the breeding process is cooling them down & due to being endotherms, reptiles need the heat from their environment to digest their food; so the last thing you want is part of their last meal rotting in their stomach)...

The temperatures and daylight hours can then be reduced, gradually, over a period of 2-3 weeks. This allows the royals to acclimatise to the decreasing temperature over a number of days rather than just dropping it all in one fell swoop; which would do nothing for their health. It is important you observe your royals closely during this period of reduced temperatures as there is a chance they may develop respiratory problems.

Instead of a 12/12 hour photoperiod you could try working with 10hours of daylight and 14hours of darkness...
Temperatures can be dropped to the mid 70's (fahrenheit).

Introduce the two snakes once this has all been settled and just leave them to it; (i.e - no handling etc) but ensure water and the environment is kept clean, and you are regularly observing them for any deterioration in health (generally without overly disturbing them).

I mist my royals when breeding them as this acts as rainfall; another stimulus to encourage breeding as would occur in the wild. A plant misting spray does well for this. I do this every few days.

Now all you can do is sit back, cross your fingers & wait!
You may not observe every copulation, you may not even observe any at all; but this is not to say they are not breeding.

Once a female ovulates it is a sight very hard to miss....she will look as though she has just eaten a large meal; a good sized 'swelling' of her midriff with a stiff feel to it. This condition lasts around 3 days in total and signifies a successful breeding.

You will see her go into a shed cycle; shedding around 14-20 days after ovulation is seen.

Make a note of the day she sheds as eggs are generally laid 30days after the 'pre egg laying shed'. On average 2-8 eggs are laid, although clutches of 14eggs are not at all uncommon for larger females.

Viable eggs will be large oval (extra large chicken eggs in appearance) and leathery. After a few days any slugs (bad eggs/non fertile) will begin to shrivel and turn yellow in colour.

The eggs will need to be incubated in vermiculite (add water until a concentration is reached where no water drips when a small handful is squeezed; it should form a compact ball in your hand, yet break apart easily when you poke your thumb into it) at a temperature of 88F-90F for 60days; when the snakes will then start piping (breaking through the egg shell).

Bury the eggs half deep in the vermiculite. It is highly important that you do not rotate the eggs at any point; when removing them from the female to placing them in the incubator, until they are vacated by the hatchlings.

Once they have slit their eggs they will remain in them for up to two days until they have absorbed all the yolk; at which point they will emerge completely and can be gently wiped down and placed into their new homes (small hatchling tubs are best).


sheet 2

1. In October we lower our temps at night. The hot spot goes down to 82 F and the cool end is 72 F.
2. We start to adjust our lighting to make shorter days. 14 hours dark - 10 hours of light. We use natural sunlight spectrum bulbs in our room. Although Ball pythons come from Africa and they live on or very close to the equator, where there is no light change (12/12), we still increase the length of darkness during the breeding season. Is there any scientific reasoning behind it? Not really...it's just the way we do it and it works for us. I think more hours in the dark lead to more security. More security...the more comfortable they are and the more they may breed. It also marks a change in seasons.
3. Starting Nov. 1 we introduce males into the female's containers. We leave them in for 2 - 3 days or shorter if we observe copulation.
4. We try to breed every female at least once every shed cycle. Some do more but this works for us and we don't exhaust our males this way.
5. We continue to feed during the breeding season, but only small meals (3 -4 week old rats) and only every 10 - 14 days., depending on where we are in the breeding cycle. More in the beginning...less at the end. We feed our snakes as long as they want to eat. When they stop feeding on their own is usually a good sign and a time to look for signs of building towards ovulation. (See pics below).
6. We continue to observe and document all activity ...positive or negative.
7. Humidity is in the 60 - 65% range in our room all year.
8. Many breeders start palpating for follicles in January. We do not. I'm not that good at it so I wait until mid February. I've been fooled when I didn't feel any early only to have females go on and ovulate. I also look for other obvious signs that are be covered below.
9. On Feb.. 14th (Valentine's day - Hey... I'm a hopeless romantic!) I start to raise temps back to normal 24/7. 92 F hot spot - 82 F cool end.
10. I keep pairing until I see obvious signs or until the end of April.