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use a tubular heater, it will obviously need a gaurd(wire or something) but they give of tons of heat and i know a few people that use these with their iggys!
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~ 1.0.0 Ackie ~ ~ 1.0.0 Water Dragon ~ ~ 0.1.0 Mountain Horned Dragon ~ ~ 1.0.0 Tokay Gecko ~ ~ 1.2.0 Leopard Gecko ~ ~1.0.0 Bearded Dragon ~
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I'm thinking about 4 ceramic bulbs on 2 stats, or maybe work out exactly what wattage I need. I was hoping I could use the tube heater but I don't think it is going to happen.
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Plumb it into the same system as your central heating if you have it...? Run a (guarded) radiator across the back of the cage for ambient temperatures, linked up to a room stat. That should save a bit on electricity, whilst keeping the cage nice and toasty for your iggy.
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Hi tony use a ahs microclimate heater thats what im using for heating my large viv for my frilled dragons get the 500w one and the built in thermostat will do the rest.
The AHS (advanced heating system ) should only be fitted to the sides or back of your vivarium or breeding enclosure. The AHS is easy to install. The diagram below shows an ideal installation. Four small pilot holes are required to be drilled to take the AHS fixing screws. A larger hole is required to allow the mains cable out of the vivarium.The sensor should be placed approximately as shown in the diagram. Some experimenting with moving the position of the sensor will allow the AHS to suit your exact heating requirements. Due to the vast array of animals from exotic reptiles to kittens and puppies which may benefit from the heat provided by the AHS, and to the many varied shapes and sizes of vivariums together with the surrounding environments in which they are kept, it is impossible to give an exact AHS wattage of heater for individual requirements. However as a general rule of thumb the guide below provides an idea of heater wattage to size of vivarium. Please remember it is always better to buy a larger heater than required as it will cost no more to run due to the thermostatic control. Power of heater Enclosure size 100 watt up to 24’’ long * 24’’ wide * 24’’ high 150 watt up to 36" long * 24’’ wide * 24’’ high 250 watt up to 48" long * 24’’ wide * 24’’ high 350 watt up to 60’’ long * 24’’ wide * 24’’ high 500 watt up to 72’’ long * 24’’ wide * 24’’ high __________________ Who am I but a slave to my lizards ![]() |
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Why not connect your existing set up to a Habistat proportional thermostat with day/night facility. When electricity goes through the auxillary input, ie via a time switch, it drops the temperature from between 5 and 25 degrees. No extra heaters and the proportional thermostat should extend the life of your bulbs, presuming your bulbs can work with a proportional thermostat, otherwise perhaps consider ceramics.
Whatever you choose for the setup and heating, the day/night facility would be an option. Roy |
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Thank you the replies people.
After speaking to Paul @ BJ Herp for a while the other day I have decided to go for 2 MVB bulbs at the top for the day time heat with 2 ceramic bulbs to boost up the day time heat if needed and also provide night heat. The 2 ceramic bulbs will be on a day/ night pulse stat while the MVB bulbs will just be on. The thermal gradiant will be top to bottom so if she gets hot she can climb down to the lower levels of the viv rather than move from side to side.
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