Pet Shop Setup - Page 2

Ssthisto · #11 (**permalink**) 09-04-2007, 10:02 AM

And when the heat rock says it's "thermo controlled" ... what they mean is that when they built it they built it in such a way that the typical running temperature is 110 degrees, and that unless the rock fails, it will not get hotter than 130 degrees fahrenheit.

Yes, 130 degrees.

They may have an internal thermostat, but YOU cannot adjust this - it is manually set at the factory. I originally enquired of the manufacturers on these about this, because they claimed they do not require a thermostat, and I was thinking about them for my leos. Well... for a leopard gecko they sure do - that's forty degrees too hot. I'm pretty sure that is ALSO too warm for a night-time basking spot for beardies, but I do not keep beardies, so I don't know for sure.

captaincaveman · #12 (**permalink**) 09-04-2007, 11:50 AM

The other think im not keen on with them is the fact that even if they are working well and on a stat, youve just got one place in the viv for them to get heat, which means they have to choose that heat over where they would prefer with a general heat covering

Dan · #13 (**permalink**) 09-04-2007, 02:41 PM

Which is why i said place the probe ON the rock and why i said place it under the daytime basking spot. Not as daft as i look

Ssthisto · #14 (**permalink**) 09-04-2007, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reticulatus

Which is why i said place the probe ON the rock and why i said place it under the daytime basking spot. Not as daft as i look

Just to clarify... I'm not sure the "thermo controlled" hot rocks actually HAVE a thermostat probe.

You'd have to hook them up to an external, extra thermostat - and the original poster hasn't said they've got one other than the dimmer thermostat for the lighting... which wouldn't be on at night (which is what the hot rock was sold for).

One supposes one could plug both the lighting and the heat rock into the dimmer stat, so long as they're both the same wattage, and have a pretty even heat - but then, the thermostat dial still only goes up to 92 degrees and would presumably shut both the light and the rock off when it got that warm despite wanting to have a basking spot of 110 or so?

Dan · #15 (**permalink**) 09-04-2007, 03:38 PM

They don't have a probe, but you wouldnt keep any other heater without a stat so why would you a heat rock? Sorry, i thought this would have been obvious, just my mind working in a funny way as usual.

I wouldn't plug the rock into the same stat as any other heater as the night time temp is to be much lower than then day time temps. Only a seperate thermostat would do.

Ssthisto · #16 (**permalink**) 09-04-2007, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reticulatus

They don't have a probe, but you wouldnt keep any other heater without a stat so why would you a heat rock? Sorry, i thought this would have been obvious, just my mind working in a funny way as usual.

No, it's actually quite sensible. The problem is that the hot rocks are labeled such as to imply you DON'T need a separate stat because they're "thermostatically controlled".

Yes, I'd very definitely advise a separate stat to use with the hot rock if you use one at all.

LouiseK · #17 (**permalink**) 10-04-2007, 12:20 AM

Thanks for the replies guys

I took it back the next day, i tend to play it safe

I've been checking the temps in the viv and it doesn't get lower than 70F with the windows open in the living room, and where we keep the vivs when occupied is much warmer with underfloor heating.

I fiddled with the habistat and i think i've just about got it sorted too.

Just need to wait for the fella to hatch now

jml220679 · #18 (**permalink**) 10-04-2007, 11:58 AM

although i would not sell a heatrock as part of a beardie set up i use them myself for some of my smaller beardies and have never had any problems. they still sense heat whether its from above or below!

also, i do not use any heat source at night as the desert gets bloody cold. i have found my beardies to be healthier and more active during the day since i stopped using a heat source at night - i presume they get a better sleep.
remember: care books are only a guide, look at their natural environment.

Kellybee · #19 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 10:54 AM

I used to use overnight heating for my lizards, but then later was enlightened as was just mentioned, to the fact that the desert is bitterly cold at night, so heating will only keep your lizard's metabolism burning calories overnight. My lizards too are a lot more active since I stopped heating them at night.

Heat rocks also, I dont really see the point, not knocking those that use them, but I'm happier with a bulb that they cant burn themselves on, I've seen many a rescue photo of animals with terrible burns, I am simply not prepared to risk it. I had an agama once that burned himself on a bulb guard, he also broke his tail in the same incident, so I just keep my bulbs out of reach and steer clear of the guards, I've encountered issues WITH them, yet never without, but others are the opposite, its just a matter of preference based on your own opinion I guess.

I know a lot of folk use the probe to the dimming stat at the warm end or the middle of the viv, again my personal preference, but I drilled a hole and put my probe 6 inches in from the side wall and midway between the floor and the UV bulb at the cool end, adjusting the size of bulb to reach the required basking temperature.

jml220679 · #20 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 06:55 PM

very good point there. i have NEVER had any problems with unprotected bulbs ( except for one clever snake that used to unscrew them and escape out the hole!) but have always had injured reptiles whenever myself or friends have used bulb guards to "protect" them.

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