Suspention incubation method...

[Gregg M]

Originally Posted by madaboutreptiles

You only need substrate to hold the humidity?

Yes, and that can be anything from water to water/substrate mixes...
It is still up to the breeder to know the humidity requirements for the the species they are breeding, however this container allows for more saturated substrates because the reptile eggs are never sitting in a substrate and remain dry during incubation...

[SleepyD]

Originally Posted by GlasgowGecko

This is not per se a flaw in the design, and would of course be the responsibility of the purchaser to put finer mesh over if it were needed.

*nods* or if possible a smaller graded base provided ~ would that be possible Gregg to have smaller holed options or mesh's available for those concerned with smaller species or would that be entirely down to the purchaser to sort?

Originally Posted by Gregg M

however this container allows for more saturated substrates because the reptile eggs are never sitting in a substrate and remain dry during incubation...

I'd be possibly interested in this as at the moment I use larger coarse perlite to rest eggs on above any water/moisture level and I allow far more air circulation then many (I don't incubate in air-tight tubs) so my eggs stay 'drier' ~ Gregg how does it fair with regards any mould or collapsing issues that some have problems with?

[Gregg M]

Originally Posted by SleepyD

*nods* or if possible a smaller graded base provided ~ would that be possible Gregg to have smaller holed options or mesh's available for those concerned with smaller species or would that be entirely down to the purchaser to sort?

As of right now, we are keeping the hole size at 5mm for two reasons
The 5mm square holes allow the proper amount of humidity and water vapor into the egg chamber above the grid line... And to open up a new mold at this point will be very expensive... It would not be just one mold... It would be a mold for the grid and a mold for the bars that stablize the eggs... The bars have pegs that are fitted to the grid for a snug fit so they can not be jarred loose during incubation or pushed around by hatchlings.. Like I said, we have incubated and hatched bibrons geckos in the container... They are about the size of a penny and did not get stuck or injured.. No leopard geckos hatched in the container got any limbs caught either... I do not see the size of the grid hole being an issue at all...

Originally Posted by SleepyD

I'd be possibly interested in this as at the moment I use larger coarse perlite to rest eggs on above any water/moisture level and I allow far more air circulation then many (I don't incubate in air-tight tubs) so my eggs stay 'drier' ~ Gregg how does it fair with regards any mould or collapsing issues that some have problems with?

Since we have been testing the SIM container we have had no issue with moulds or collapsed eggs... We have had a 100% hatch rate thus far...

[SleepyD]

Originally Posted by Gregg M

As of right now, we are keeping the hole size at 5mm for two reasons
The 5mm square holes allow the proper amount of humidity and water vapor into the egg chamber above the grid line... And to open up a new mold at this point will be very expensive... It would not be just one mold... It would be a mold for the grid and a mold for the bars that stablize the eggs... The bars have pegs that are fitted to the grid for a snug fit so they can not be jarred loose during incubation or pushed around by hatchlings.. Like I said, we have incubated and hatched bibrons geckos in the container... They are about the size of a penny and did not get stuck or injured.. No leopard geckos hatched in the container got any limbs caught either... I do not see the size of the grid hole being an issue at all...

fair do's ~ I wouldn't have any problem trying it 'as is' with leo's but was merely asking for those who may have concerns

Since we have been testing the SIM container we have had no issue with moulds or collapsed eggs... We have had a 100% hatch rate thus far...

thankyou ~ I know that mould/collapsing can be an issue for some so if those are less of a problem then that's all for the better

[Gregg M]

Generally, moulds do not grow on good, healthy eggs... For the most part, if an egg starts to mold, it is either because the egg was infertile or because the embryo is either very week or has died...

There are many factors that go into embryotic mortality...
Embryos die when there is too much or too likke moisture... They also die if water gets on the egg... Another cause of embryotic death is when they do not get the proper gas exchange... Just to name a few...

This container was designed to greatly reduce the chances of embriotic death... You can never totally eliminate the chances of an embryo not making it full term, but you can reduce them significantly...

[peterf]

I have used this method for years for my reticulated python eggs, and many others.
I use a special high powered heat mat under a big really useful box with around 3" of water in the bottom.
I cut the bottom out of a large contico box and replace the hole with a big square of stainless mesh that is welded onto the contico.
The contico is placed, up side down, over the water.
Egg mass is placed on the mesh, just over the water.
To avoid condensation on the lid, another normal power heat mat is taped to the lid and warms the plastic enough to avoid any condensation.
Both mats are controlled with a Habistat Pulse proportional thermostat and the probe is placed directly in the egg mass for effective control.
Works for most all eggs!

[shep1979]

do u know wot stand u will be hamm? as we want a few to give a try

[messengermatt]

Originally Posted by peterf

I have used this method for years for my reticulated python eggs, and many others.
I use a special high powered heat mat under a big really useful box with around 3" of water in the bottom.
I cut the bottom out of a large contico box and replace the hole with a big square of stainless mesh that is welded onto the contico.
The contico is placed, up side down, over the water.
Egg mass is placed on the mesh, just over the water.
To avoid condensation on the lid, another normal power heat mat is taped to the lid and warms the plastic enough to avoid any condensation.
Both mats are controlled with a Habistat Pulse proportional thermostat and the probe is placed directly in the egg mass for effective control.
Works for most all eggs!

So its easy to make at home then ?

[Gregg M]

Originally Posted by messengermatt

So its easy to make at home then ?

Well considering what needs to be done and the materials you need to buy to make one, wouldnt it be easier to just buy one and pop it in your incubator???

Why do you keep looking to discourage people from buying this product??? Is it something personal??? I dont fully understand your motives...

[inkyjoe]

I think this looks like a brilliant product, with lots of research, good knowledge of the science of incubation, and a dedication to improving, what is, a very controversial subject for many breeders (evidently)!

Personally, its too small for anything I am planning to breed, but, with whats been explained, and the evidence thats been posted by the inventors/promoters, this look like a very valid and successful bit of kit, and I dont see why people are clutching at straws to pick holes in it, especially when Ive read such bad results with other mass-produced reptile incubators. If youve got a problem with it, dont use it, let other people use it, until its results(which look good/perfect to me) are more widely known when the product is stabilised.

It sounds like you can make something very similar at home, but people will still buy it, because people always buy specific reptile products, when in a lot of cases, a home made substitute can be found, just look at exo-terra!? eg. you can buy a synthetic cave for your reptile to hide in, when you could probably just use an old shoe, or a rock shaped water bowl, when you can use a washed up yoghurt pot!

best of luck guys, lets hope to improve reptile egg developement, and eliminate rubbish hatch rates and retarded hatchlings