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This is quite normal and is designed to work that way, same as for devices like heaters, ovens, central heating controllers, fridges etc. There is no need to have a narrow band of operating temperature or it would be continually switching on and off.
In a room there will also be a number of temperature gradients as heat rises plus there will be convection currents. Whats important is the vivs temperature vivs which should be measured with a max/min digital type. Stats such as habbistat and microclimate also operate in the same way though they dont have any specifications which state their switching range.
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\\|// (O O) +---oOO--(_)----------+ |Vivariums built to order| +---------------oOO---+ |__|__| | | | ooO Ooo Runners - vents - fittings supplied |
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Oh ok thanks.
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i seem to remember the lucky reptile thermo control 2 and the identical yet cheaper unbranded ones you can get on ebay are rated to 1200Watts... if not then id use an on/off stat and a contactor (can buy them for hydroponics setups) instead of plugging the contactor into a timer plug it into an on/ off stat and bingo, instantly you can control up to 13Amps of stuff of a normal stat (i would say the 300 watt habistat stat would be best for this, mat stats seem to vary a lot in their hysteresis and i havent tried the microclimate ministats so cant comment on them)
Owen |
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