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Old 24-02-2009, 11:28 AM
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Default Insulation for new build rep room...what do you use?

So, my Dad and I built my shed this weekend, we have insulated the base using recycled plastic insulation stuff (looks like normal loft insulation but isn't!)
Now I am looking at insulating the inside of the shed before lining it with marine ply......what have other people used, where do I go for it and any recommendations?
it has to be 450 mm thick?

I know a few of you have built rooms etc so any advice would be helpful, we have to get the electrics sorted first but we are looking to get it all done fairly sharpish....

Thanks
Penny
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Old 24-02-2009, 11:41 AM
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Line it with the ply then drill a line of holes and use the spray filler foam, i have 7 sheds insulated this way and it has cut the leccy down dramatically
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Old 24-02-2009, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by tarantulabarn View Post
Line it with the ply then drill a line of holes and use the spray filler foam, i have 7 sheds insulated this way and it has cut the leccy down dramatically
Is that easily available?
Where do i go, would Wicks or Travis perkins do it? if you use it presumably there is no danger of chemical vapours when it warms up?
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Old 24-02-2009, 11:44 AM
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we are building a reptile room which is made from celcon blocks....we are in the process of lining it out with kingspan...its 50mm thick but u can now purchase 8x4ft sheets which are 200mm thick. We will then use plasterboard over the top etc.....
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Old 24-02-2009, 11:50 AM
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Sory to upset you but 450mm would NOT be enough to keep the heat in and more importantly the heat OUT in the summer. Minimum 80mm Kingspan Celotex or similar. Anything less will be next to useless. And remember you'll need an airgap between the kingspan and the internal wall..(always forgotten.)

You need to do the ceiling as well.

Save the money on the marine ply and spend it on insulation.

So working from outside in - external shed timber - staple on damp proof membrane (Oldroyd or similar) - 80mm kingspan - small air gap of 10-30mm - plaster board (foil backed is best OR MDF/CHIPBOARD/Thin ply.

You'll need an heater and an extractor fan built in as well for cold winters/hot summers.

HTH.
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Old 24-02-2009, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caz View Post
Sory to upset you but 450mm would NOT be enough to keep the heat in and more importantly the heat OUT in the summer. Minimum 80mm Kingspan Celotex or similar. Anything less will be next to useless. And remember you'll need an airgap between the kingspan and the internal wall..(always forgotten.)

You need to do the ceiling as well.

Save the money on the marine ply and spend it on insulation.

So working from outside in - external shed timber - staple on damp proof membrane (Oldroyd or similar) - 80mm kingspan - small air gap of 10-30mm - plaster board (foil backed is best OR MDF/CHIPBOARD/Thin ply.

You'll need an heater and an extractor fan built in as well for cold winters/hot summers.

HTH.
Sorry but i don`t agree. I have worked in the building trade for many years. Up untill about 2 years ago 50mm of rigid insulation (Kingspan or similar) was enough to meet the building regs for house insulation so to say 45mm insulation would do no good in a shed is not true. And to leave an air gap unless it has through ventilation may cause condensation problems. Air gaps are becoming a thing of the past because unless proper ventilation can be made they cause more problems than they solve.

(Marine ply is made with glue to withstand salt from sea water. Cheap exterior ply will do your job for lining the walls)
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Old 24-02-2009, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crow View Post
Sorry but i don`t agree. I have worked in the building trade for many years. Up untill about 2 years ago 50mm of rigid insulation (Kingspan or similar) was enough to meet the building regs for house insulation so to say 45mm insulation would do no good in a shed is not true. And to leave an air gap unless it has through ventilation may cause condensation problems. Air gaps are becoming a thing of the past because unless proper ventilation can be made they cause more problems than they solve.

(Marine ply is made with glue to withstand salt from sea water. Cheap exterior ply will do your job for lining the walls)
And now the regs state 80mm. The shed cannot be compared to a house build, more a dorma type affair.
It's a shed and will have a 'cold' wall type set up hence the airgap.
With just the suggested wood/45mm poly onto ply all the poster will have made is half a 'warm' wall.
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Old 24-02-2009, 12:57 PM
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I used kingspan, its great stuff but get it off the net, you can buy it much cheaper than a builders yard.
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Old 24-02-2009, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MSL View Post
Is that easily available?
Where do i go, would Wicks or Travis perkins do it? if you use it presumably there is no danger of chemical vapours when it warms up?

All diy shops sell it, as do ebay. Its not cheap and for an 8x6 shed it takes about 15 cans, but i have a constant heat, or cool in the summer, and around 40% drop in leccy bills
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Fully Stage 2 DEFRA and DWAA Licensed European Courier Licence No UK/REIGA/T2/00035596
NVQ Level2 long distance transport of animals including Poultry

Prices held for a THIRD year
Now covering Guernsey and Jersey on a weekly basis

Direct Dial number 07771 940837 Email
email: bookings@animalcourier.co.uk

With the new discount code we are now the most cost effective courier in the UK
Second van will be on the road from next week Mainly for the Zoo work but avaliable for everyone else as well
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Old 24-02-2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarantulabarn View Post
All diy shops sell it, as do ebay. Its not cheap and for an 8x6 shed it takes about 15 cans, but i have a constant heat, or cool in the summer, and around 40% drop in leccy bills
Thansk for everyones comments....loads to consider........I will do what all good daughters do in matters pertaining to building stuff and ask my Dad!........although the above seems a fairly good method.........

Cheers
Penny
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