Day gecko caresheet publishing draft 2,constructive crit's appreciated!(copyrighted)

[jedi]

Lighting, Temperature & Humidity:

Most species of day geckos require daytime temperatures of 81°-89° Fahrenheit (27°-31° Celsius) and a night time temperature drop to around 70°-80° F (21°-27°C).
All geckos are cold blooded, which means that they need to externally regulate their body temperature by moving around between areas of different temperature level within a specific thermal gradient.
Full-spectrum reptile fluorescent lights that produce small amounts of UVA and UVB (approximately 5% +) should be placed at the top of the enclosure. A mesh screen under the fluorescent bulbs is preferable because most types of plastic and glass diffract a large percentage of UV light. Many herpetologists do not use screens for fluorescent and/ or basking lights without reporting any problems; however there is the potential that a gecko may receive thermal burns, and they are therefore recommended.
The quantity and quality of lighting contributes to optimum behavioural characteristics, resulting in brighter colours and potentially increased success in breeding, and in the case of UVA/UVB fluorescent lights, will help a geckos’ vitamin D3 synthesis, a vital metabolic function which enables the specie’s calcium absorption.
Daytime temperatures can best be achieved with monitored use of incandescent, or halogen basking bulbs (20-60 watt depending on size of vivarium) placed on one side of the enclosure over specific basking areas so that the gecko can pick its preferred temperature. This should be controlled by a dimming thermostat, providing the maximum vivarium temperature (up to 90°F) in a localised area. This area should produce the maximum temperature of the daytime thermal gradient. Extra thermometers placed within the extremities of the thermal gradient in the vivarium are recommended. Although many thermostats, such as Habistats are very accurate, probes tend to measure heat in a highly localised area so extra monitoring is essential.
Background temperature can be regulated via a heat mat attached to the rear or base of the tank, controlled by a temperature thermostat. This should be sufficient in order to maintain minimum night time temperatures, however many choose to use a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter). Infra-red basking lights are commonly used with thermostats in order to control night time temperatures. This also acts as a useful means by which to view the cage inhabitants at night without disturbing the photoperiod (reptiles cannot see infra-red light).
Photoperiod:
The photoperiod should be regulated to replicate natural daylight cycles, gradually rising from a mid winter photoperiod of 8 hours, to a high summer photoperiod of 16 hours. This can be controlled by an electronic timer which can be bought at a reasonable cost. A small temperature drop for 8-10 weeks in winter is also beneficial for replicating seasonal behavioural norms (see breeding section).
Humidity:
Most day geckos come from habitats with humidity levels ranging from 55-85%. Day geckos from South-western Madagascar prefer less humidity and more heat. Plants and a proper substrate are important in maintaining the required stable humidity levels, and visual monitoring can reveal further clues. The substrate should never become saturated, but just slightly damp on the surface. It is also important to provide proper ventilation in the enclosure while maintaining humidity. Spraying the vivarium twice daily will help to achieve and maintain humidity levels, although this can be increased slightly (5-10% relative humidity) during the summer months. Phelsuma species will almost exclusively drink from water droplets on leaves within the vivarium. This makes misting the enclosure even more crucial. Both digital and analog hygrometers are available inform reptile shops and the internet. The Exo Terra branded equipment is reliable and reasonably priced.


Food:

The main staple of Phelsumas diet are insects and other small invertebrates, which include crickets, wax worms (in moderation as they contain a high fat content), wax moths, wingless fruit flies, flies, nectar and pollen. In captivity they will also eat mealworms (in moderation and only those with freshly shed skin in order to minimise exposure to their high levels of chitin) and some types of roach. Food items should be dusted with calcium and multi vitamin supplements at every other feeding.

In the wild the majority of day gecko’s diets are complimented by nectar and overripe fruit. The following fruits, although not necessarily available to all species in the wild are suitable: Papaya, mango, peaches, nectarines, apricots and other soft fruits. It is advised that a varied rotation of these fruits are mixed together in order to provide a varied nutritional diet. Many herpetologists use a high quality fruit baby food, although it is advised that this is supplemented with over ripe fruit. This mixture should be constantly available in a small dish, but it is important to remove it after about two hours, so it doesn't spoil. It is advised to make this mixture twice a week, and refrigerate it so it can be changed when required.

All fruit offered should have multi vitamin D3 supplements and calcium added, which are readily available in reptile shops. A small bowl of calcium carbonate available at all times can also be highly beneficial in preventing deficiencies, particularly in gravid females as egg formation reduces their levels significantly.


Breeding:

As with most geckos, Phelsumas breeding season is determined by temperature, photo period and quantity of food available, and only when habitat, photoperiod, humidity, heating, lighting, feeding, and health have been achieved successfully, can breeding be considered. Breeding females require constant availability of calcium for proper egg formation (see feeding section). Calcium deposits are stored just behind the cheeks and are a good indication of optimal breeding condition.

It is common for specimens to be conditioned prior to mating. This normally occurs between November and early January, and can be achieved by reducing the photoperiod to mid winter exposure levels for about 8 weeks (discussed in lighting section), as well as a drop in temperature by approximately 5 degrees Celsius. Food items should also be reduced by about a third in this period, returning to or even exceeding normal levels for a short period of 3-5 weeks afterward.

Female day geckos usually produce 2 eggs every 28 days during the breeding season. Underweight or young females may mate successfully but may not produce viable eggs, or produce eggs infrequently. If you are attempting to mate young/ underweight specimens this will cause stress and lead to the premature death of breeding stock. Weighing specimens during the weekly cage cleaning is recommended (this can be done by weighing the gecko within its container and deducting the weight of the container from the total weight) .Females should weigh a minimum of 45 grams).

The Phelsuma species can be both gluers and non-gluers. Those species that glue most commonly lay eggs on hard surfaces within the cage, for example on bamboo poles or leaves. The eggs are extremely delicate, and the item on which the eggs are laid must be removed and incubated, rather than removing the eggs from it. Non-gluers will lay a pair of hard shelled eggs. These can be removed carefully by hand and placed in an incubator.

The sex of hatchlings is determined by temperature. This varies between species, however a temperature of 80-84°F can be used as a base for almost all Phelsuma species. Further species specific research is essential. Humidity is also species specific but 80% can be used as a base for this genus. Eggs should be half buried in a1:1 vermiculite (or coco-fibre) to water ratio. Incubation will last between 45-90 days, with the exception of very few species. It is advised to leave hatchlings in the incubator for a few days. The egg will have provided the necessary sustenance for this period. At this point they should be relocated to a hatchling box until their first shed is complete. 1st instar crickets and a fruit mixture should be provided at this stage. Maintaining high humidity is very important. After the 1st shed hatchlings can be moved to a small cage that replicates adult conditions. It is recommended that hatchlings are housed alone in order to minimise stress, competition for food and potential loss of digits/tails. At 6 months of age specimens should be sexed and moved into an adult size cage.

Health:

Recognising health and behavioural abnormalities is very important when keeping specimens. The level of alertness and activity is a good indicator as to whether a specimen is over stressed. A gecko that is scared to hunt, bask, move openly or constantly hides may be intimidated by other geckos in the cage. Problems between cage inhabitants are not necessarily manifested through physical aggression, and intimidation from hunting and basking are forms of over exposure to stress and can be life threatening. If climatic conditions are incorrect or if there are insufficient numbers of hides can also be a factor leading to over stress.

Good weight and bright colouration (a stressed gecko tends to be a darker colour than usual) are excellent signs of good health. Bright colours, a plump tail and well rounded body are all signs of a healthy gecko. Clean eyes, snout, vents are also good indicators.

Vivariums should be cleaned once a week by removing all furnishings and washing them and the cage with a reptile friendly disinfectant, which should then by rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It is recommended that faeces be removed weekly to maintain a healthy and attractive environment. Having adequate ventilation is extremely important as this stops rapid bacterial build up caused by stagnant air.


















Reading:


Christenson, Leann and Greg 2003 ‘Day Geckos in Captivity’
Henkel/Schmidt 1995 English version 'Geckoes'
McKeown, Sean 1996 Reptiles 4-10 'Breeding the Smaller Day Geckos'
McKeown, Sean 1996 Reptiles 4-9 'Successfully Keeping the Smaller Day Geckos' McKeown, Sean 1993 The General Care and Maintenance of Day Geckos'
Reid, Taylor 1995 Reptiles 3-4 'Keeping and Breeding the Larger Day Geckos'
Rundquist, Eric. M 1994 'Day Geckos'
Tytle, Tim 1989 The Vivarium 2-5 'The Captive Maintenance and Propagation of Day Geckos'

[spend_day]

i gave it a skip read and it seems good but there didnt seem to be any referance to handling (and more to the point why u shouldnt)

[GlasgowGecko]

"Females should weigh a minimum of 45 grams"

If you intend this to be a general care sheet for Phelsuma, then you cannot make this generalisation. The great majority of species will not reach a weight any where near this.

"Vivariums should be cleaned once a week by removing all furnishings and washing them and the cage with a reptile friendly disinfectant, which should then by rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It is recommended that faeces be removed weekly to maintain a healthy and attractive environment. Having adequate ventilation is extremely important as this stops rapid bacterial build up caused by stagnant air."

This is not possible with a planted tank, nor would I say it is advisable. These geckos are VERY prone to stress and removal of the entire viv contents every week would be a bad idea. Reptile feces can have a positive effect on plant growth, and on bio setups.

Also I would NOT use any cage for a basking bulb. These tend to allow the animals to grip for much longer periods than they do onto just a bulb and INCREASE the severity of any burn.

The argument about the Chitin is also moot. These animals will eat a variety of insects ALL with high chitin levels. They will even happily eat Darkling beetles (the adult for of mealworms) without any digestion problems. All of mine are fed on mealworms, with no problems.

Andy