Leopard gecko care sheet:

[repkid]

Scientific/Latin name: Eublepharis Macularius

Distribution: Leopard geckos are normally found in Pakistan, Afghanistan and sometimes West and North China.

Size: Hatchling leopard geckos average 3" and by the time they are fully grown vary from 7-11". Hatchlings typically weight 2-5 grams whils adults average out at 50-80 grams with the exception of some reaching 100 grams.

Life span: 15-20 years.

General appearance: The average leopard gecko is yellow with black spots. If fed well they will have a nice fat tail where they store their fat. Unlike many other gecko species they have small claws instead of adhesive pads so are clumsy climbers. They have small holes in the side of their head with are infact their ears.

Housing: The minimum size enclosure for a leopard gecko is 2x1ft floor space although I generally find they are sightly cramped in that size and offer them bigger more spacious enclosures. For an enclosure you can use a wooden vivarium which are probably the most popular type of enclosure used for most reptiles. However you can use plastic tubs and glass fish tanks of an appropriate size. You can house females together but NEVER house males together as they will fight over territory and dominance sometimes to the death. You must provide three hides in the enclosure, one on the warm side of the cage, one on the cool side of the enclosure and a moist hide half on and half off the warm side. In the moist hide you can use spaghnum moss or damp kitchen roll. A waterbowl must bowl must always be available to the gecko.

Heating: Heat is very important to reptiles as they are cold blooded and need to thermoregulate. Leopard geckos will thrive with a heatmat controlled by a thermostat on one side of the enclosure. The heatmat should be no more than half the length of the cage ideally covering one third. Leopard geckos need a hot side of 86-90F. This can be monitored by using a digital thermometer. Although they are a bit more expensive than the average dial thermometers they are much more accurate.

Lighting: Lighting isn't really necessary for leopard geckos but you can use a low wattage bulb to help recreate day/night cycles which is a must. However you can depend upon daylight you may get through windows. UV lights are not needed due to leopard geckos being crepuscula.

Substrate: There are lots of ongoing debates over whether sand is safe to use as a substrate or not. Many leopard geckos have died from impaction of sand. Some people use playsand instead of calci sand which i definately don't recommend. If you insist on using sand please use playsand as it is safer. Due to the possibility of impaction from sand I myself use kitchen roll to be safe. You can also use newspaper. These are much easier to clean, replace and are much cheaper than sand.

Shedding: Leopard geckos will regularly rake refuge int heir moist hide to help aid shedding. They eat their old skin so don't get worried if you see this happening.

Diet: Leopard geckos can be fed mealworms, crickets, locusts and waxworms. Always feed your leopard gecko the appropriate sized prey and a rough guide used by many keepers is no longer than space between the geckos eyes. Hatchlings should be fed small crickets and as they get older you can start to introduce other food items into their diet. It is always good to provide a varied diet consisting of locusts, crickets and mealworms. Waxworms should only be fed to your gecko every week or so as a treat due to their fat content and lack of nutritional value. Mealworms should be fed in a shallow dish easily accessible to the gecko but big enough that the worms can't escape. All food should be dusted with calcium powder 5 days a week and D3 powder 2 days a week. I personally use calypso calcium powder and nutrobal. You should also leave a bottle top of calcium powder in the enclosure 24/7.

Daily needs: Enclosure should be spot cleaned every day and fresh water should be provided every day.

Summary: If kept correctly leopard geckos are a great first lizard and a great pet. They will last a long time and are of low matinence and cost. I hope this care sheet has helped you and enjoy your gecko!

I have written this from pure experience. This is my first care sheet, please let me know what you think of it.

Thanks,
Brad

[sumpy]

Great caresheet, nicely split up into sections and easy to read.
Good job.

[repkid]

Originally Posted by sumpy

Great caresheet, nicely split up into sections and easy to read.
Good job.

Thanks

[mummybear]

Good - but what does crepuscula mean? in the lighting section in regards to uv. Personally I would have just stuck with nocturnal

[Mattsetback]

Originally Posted by mummybear

but what does crepuscula mean?

It means they venture out at dawn and dusk.

[martin day]

well done m8 good care sheet

[repkid]

Thanks.

If you're wondering why there isn't a breeding section it is because all the info in the current care sheet is from my experience and I haven't bred yet so I didn't want to ruine it by copying someone elses.

[Tommy123]

Neat care sheet mate!

[GothGirl]

Nice sheet, they can also be found in the arid desert regions of iran and iraq, and they aren't crepuscular, they are nocturnal.

Other than that

[indigo_rock_girl]

Originally Posted by repkid

Scientific/Latin name: Eublepharis Macularius

Distribution: Leopard geckos are normally found in Pakistan, Afghanistan and sometimes West and North China.

Size: Hatchling leopard geckos average 3" and by the time they are fully grown vary from 7-11". Hatchlings typically weight 2-5 grams whils adults average out at 50-80 grams with the exception of some reaching 100 grams.

Life span: 15-20 years.

General appearance: The average leopard gecko is yellow with black spots. If fed well they will have a nice fat tail where they store their fat. Unlike many other gecko species they have small claws instead of adhesive pads so are clumsy climbers. They have small holes in the side of their head with are infact their ears.

Housing: The minimum size enclosure for a leopard gecko is 2x1ft floor space although I generally find they are sightly cramped in that size and offer them bigger more spacious enclosures. For an enclosure you can use a wooden vivarium which are probably the most popular type of enclosure used for most reptiles. However you can use plastic tubs and glass fish tanks of an appropriate size. You can house females together but NEVER house males together as they will fight over territory and dominance sometimes to the death. You must provide three hides in the enclosure, one on the warm side of the cage, one on the cool side of the enclosure and a moist hide half on and half off the warm side. In the moist hide you can use spaghnum moss or damp kitchen roll. A waterbowl must bowl must always be available to the gecko.

Heating: Heat is very important to reptiles as they are cold blooded and need to thermoregulate. Leopard geckos will thrive with a heatmat controlled by a thermostat on one side of the enclosure. The heatmat should be no more than half the length of the cage ideally covering one third. Leopard geckos need a hot side of 86-90F. This can be monitored by using a digital thermometer. Although they are a bit more expensive than the average dial thermometers they are much more accurate.

Lighting: Lighting isn't really necessary for leopard geckos but you can use a low wattage bulb to help recreate day/night cycles which is a must. However you can depend upon daylight you may get through windows. UV lights are not needed due to leopard geckos being crepuscula.

Substrate: There are lots of ongoing debates over whether sand is safe to use as a substrate or not. Many leopard geckos have died from impaction of sand. Some people use playsand instead of calci sand which i definately don't recommend. If you insist on using sand please use playsand as it is safer. Due to the possibility of impaction from sand I myself use kitchen roll to be safe. You can also use newspaper. These are much easier to clean, replace and are much cheaper than sand.

Shedding: Leopard geckos will regularly rake refuge int heir moist hide to help aid shedding. They eat their old skin so don't get worried if you see this happening.

Diet: Leopard geckos can be fed mealworms, crickets, locusts and waxworms. Always feed your leopard gecko the appropriate sized prey and a rough guide used by many keepers is no longer than space between the geckos eyes. Hatchlings should be fed small crickets and as they get older you can start to introduce other food items into their diet. It is always good to provide a varied diet consisting of locusts, crickets and mealworms. Waxworms should only be fed to your gecko every week or so as a treat due to their fat content and lack of nutritional value. Mealworms should be fed in a shallow dish easily accessible to the gecko but big enough that the worms can't escape. All food should be dusted with calcium powder 5 days a week and D3 powder 2 days a week. I personally use calypso calcium powder and nutrobal. You should also leave a bottle top of calcium powder in the enclosure 24/7.

Daily needs: Enclosure should be spot cleaned every day and fresh water should be provided every day.

Summary: If kept correctly leopard geckos are a great first lizard and a great pet. They will last a long time and are of low matinence and cost. I hope this care sheet has helped you and enjoy your gecko!

I have written this from pure experience. This is my first care sheet, please let me know what you think of it.

Thanks,
Brad

brill caresheet brad