Slow-Worm Care Sheet

[snowgoose]

This is a very simple care sheet for Slow-Worms along with the current laws surrounding them. This is my first ever care sheet so its not great but I think it provides the information required for keeping slow-worms in captivity.


LAW:

1 ) It is illegal to kill, injure or sell wild slow worms.

2 ) The Law only applies to wild animals therefore you are allowed to sell captive bred slow-worms without the need for a license.

3 ) If you wish to sell wild caught slow-worms, a license is required.

4 ) Any animal conceived and born in a controlled environment is considered captive bred, therefore the laws do not apply.

5 ) However, any animal produced as a result of a fertile egg taken from the wild and hatched in a controlled environment (captivity) would be considered taken from the wild and therefore the laws apply.

6 ) Likewise with a gravid female slow-worm taken from the wild and born in a controlled environment would be considered taken from the wild and the laws apply.

Common Name: Slow-Worm,

Latin Name: Anguis Fragilis

Native to: Mainland Europe, Great Britain, Southwest Asia and Northwest Africa

Size: Anything up to 50cm for a female and about 45cm for a male.

Life span: If taken care of properly, slow worms can live for 20 years or more ( Record 54 years ).

General appearance: Slow worms are covered in smooth, shiney scales or reddish brown, brown, grey or silvery grey. Males tend to be unicoloured with females usually having darker sides and a dark vertabral stripe.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A minimum 50 gallon tank / tub is recommended for a single slow worm, along with a well fitting lid but at the same time allowing free exchange of air.

Temperature: The ambient temperature should be 15° - 18° C in summer with a basking site being about 21° - 23° C. During the winter the tank can be reduced to a temperate of 5° - 10° C .

Light: If the slow worm is being housed indoors UVB will be needed.

Substrate: Sandy Soil mixed with either Coconut fiber or peat moss, with a ratio of 2:1 will be fine with a depth of about 6-10 inches

Environment: Slow-worms should be provided with plenty of places to hide and burrow. Some flat rocks for basking and hiding under are a bonus along with a few small live plants.

Diet: Small snails, slugs, worms, spiders, hairless caterpillars and other grubs.

Water: This should always be fresh and provided in a shallow tray / dish allowing the slow worm to soak if required.

Handling: This should be kept to a minimum, although if you are handling be very gentle as slow worms are able to drop their tail if needed.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the slow worm back in the enclosure. Hand washing after handling the slow worm or any cage furnishings is essential.

[Adam_R]

i ave considered going and collecting a couple of these but wasnt sure how to keep them ,thanks this care sheets helped me loads

[daftlassieEmma]

just a visual reference, male is the lighter animal, the female is easily identified as they retain the dark sides and stripe



female with young

[blood and guts]

Leave them in the wild like most of our native herps there in fast decline.

Also the temp issue id suggest from experience in the feild they need a higher hotspot, many boards ive found them under have recorded higher temps. Also diet wise there main diet is slugs so not easy to cater for and a wc adult may not adapt well to crickets and the like.

[daftlassieEmma]

Originally Posted by blood and guts

Leave them in the wild like most of our native herps there in fast decline.

Also the temp issue id suggest from experience in the feild they need a higher hotspot, many boards ive found them under have recorded higher temps. Also diet wise there main diet is slugs so not easy to cater for and a wc adult may not adapt well to crickets and the like.

this debate has been raised so many times already

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/lizar...orm-video.html

fair play if you'd rather they were let be but imo keeping a single animal or a pair for breeding is a great way to get interested in native species

[C4VEMAN-5AM]

I couldnt tell the difference between the males and females when i found them i just saw a couple of big ones and about 3 babies, so thanks daftlassieemma

[axorozzas]

A few more helpful points:

The law

Slow worms don't lay eggs they give birth to live young. So 5 does not apply.

However 6 still applies for a pregnant female.

A very good reference on this subject is slow worm laws

Ultra-violet light

There is much debate about the need for UV lighting with slow worms.
Studies have shown that many nocturnal reptiles do benefit from UV, but it is not essential for their well being.
Also bear in mind that UV bulbs tend to be very bright, and slow worms, being nocturnal may shy away.

A good way to ensure they gain some UV light is to keep them in a sunny postion, but away from direct sunlight as this can cause overheating (a windowsill postion is not a good idea).

Basking area

I've personally found is that mine enjoyed a basking spot.

To provide a basking spot, any sort of spotlight that's not specifically for heating reptiles can be used (as these will be too hot). A table lamp is fine. Ensure that your slow worm cannot come into physical contact with any part of the light (that includes the base of a table lamp) As they could burn themselves.

provide a large flat rock (ensuring all sharp edges are removed) or ceramic tile for the slow worm to rest on when basking. This will absorb the heat, allowing the slow worm to warm itself through contact.

use a thermometer to ensure the temperature does not climb too high.

Tank decor safety

Always ensure that rocks or any other heavy items used are rested on the bottom of the tank, as if they are left on top of the substrate, they could collapse on the slow worm while it's burrowing.

Slow worms can climb to some extent. Do not place objects overhanging hard items for obvious reasons.

Handling

As said above.

Make sure the slow worm is fully supported in your hands, as obviously being smoothed skinned and legless they cannot grip well.
It is extremely rare for slow worms to bite, however a stressed slow worm will move quickly in tight coils around your hands. Do not be alarmed by this, but take it a cue to put it down. Sometimes they may also defecate on your hands. This is a good sign that your slow worm is eating well
As with all reptiles, hold it close above the floor or table surface to avoid injury if it escapes.

[C4VEMAN-5AM]

And they shed their tails sometimes and may dig their tail into your hand which feels like a little spike lol

[snowgoose]

Having never kept slow-worms myself this was only quickly put together by myself after some research but the problems I has was finding temp info and such as there isn't any I put what I thought would be ok

[LiamRatSnake]

What % of UV is recommended if it's used? I can't imagine they'd need a high one. What about supplementation of food?