need help on williams day gecko care sheet

[Herp breeder]

as title say's i need some help i have wrote some care sheets for a website i am making and am wondering if there any good so if people could please have some constructive criticism on this then please say as need some help

Common name: Williams dwarf day gecko

Scientific name: Lygodactylus Williamsi

Background:
These geckos are brilliant occupants for a display vivarium this is because they are very active during the day and show fascinating behaviour. They originate from the tropical forests of Tanzania. They grow to a size of 6- 10cm the males are bright blue often lending them the name of electric blue gecko’s the females are usually green both sex’s have black markings are on their heads normally. They have only recently been introduced into the hobby and as such are not largely available at the moment. As with all geckos’s the males cannot be kept together communally as one will be more dominant and so they will usually fight often to the death.
Housing
These gecko’s being arboreal need a high setup but because of their size they can be kept in a small but tall vivarium a 12”x12”x 18” vivarium will suffice for one male and two females. This should be furnished with plenty of foliage to hide in and some twigs and vines to climb on. A water bowl can be provided but this is not necessary as explained later.
Substrate
These geckos need humidity so a substrate that holds humidity well should be used this can be plantation soil or anything else that holds humidity well. This should be cleaned out every month. This stuff is also great as it can be used to support live plants which will maintain the humidity in the vivarium.
Lighting, humidity and temperature
These gecko’s being active in the day need UV lighting 5.0% uv bulb should be fine for this job make sure the gecko’s cannot touch these bulbs as they may burn themselves easily on contact with it. Humidity should be maintained at 50-80% this can be maintained by spraying them in the morning and maybe the evening this will aid in shedding and also these gecko’s will only drink of leaves over a water bowl. Their temperature should be maintained between 25-29°c.
Feeding
These geckos with their small mouths should be fed the appropriate size food. They are not only insectivores but do eat soft fruit so this can be provided such as mashed mango and other sweet soft fruits they should also be fed size 2 or even 3 crickets these should be dusted with calcium powder.
Handling
Due to their small size these gecko’s should not be handled unless it is necessary such as one escaping or full clean of the viv.
Cheers for any help

[eco_tonto]

Fruity baby food is a good food source, males shouldn't fight to the death tbh, once the squabble is over one of the males goes very dull and is the submissive male, and the other will remain fired up, they should only fight again if moved to a new enclosure or if the current one is changed around. I would recommend mentioning viv runners for laying in a breeding section.

Other than that pretty good Rossy!

[Surferdude09]

Originally Posted by Herp breeder

as title say's i need some help i have wrote some care sheets for a website i am making and am wondering if there any good so if people could please have some constructive criticism on this then please say as need some help

Common name: Williams dwarf day gecko


Scientific name: Lygodactylus Williamsi

Background:
These geckos are brilliant occupants for a display vivarium this is because they are very active during the day and show fascinating behaviour. They originate from the tropical forests of Tanzania. They grow to a size of 6- 10cm the males are bright blue often lending them the name of electric blue gecko’s the females are usually green both sex’s have black markings are on their heads normally. They have only recently been introduced into the hobby and as such are not largely available at the moment. As with all geckos’s the males cannot be kept together communally as one will be more dominant and so they will usually fight often to the death.
Housing
These gecko’s being arboreal need a high setup but because of their size they can be kept in a small but tall vivarium a 12”x12”x 18” vivarium will suffice for one male and two females. This should be furnished with plenty of foliage to hide in and some twigs and vines to climb on. A water bowl can be provided but this is not necessary as explained later.
Substrate
These geckos need humidity so a substrate that holds humidity well should be used this can be plantation soil or anything else that holds humidity well. This should be cleaned out every month. This stuff is also great as it can be used to support live plants which will maintain the humidity in the vivarium.
Lighting, humidity and temperature
These gecko’s being active in the day need UV lighting 5.0% uv bulb should be fine for this job make sure the gecko’s cannot touch these bulbs as they may burn themselves easily on contact with it. Humidity should be maintained at 50-80% this can be maintained by spraying them in the morning and maybe the evening this will aid in shedding and also these gecko’s will only drink of leaves over a water bowl. Their temperature should be maintained between 25-29°c.
Feeding
These geckos with their small mouths should be fed the appropriate size food. They are not only insectivores but do eat soft fruit so this can be provided such as mashed mango and other sweet soft fruits they should also be fed size 2 or even 3 crickets these should be dusted with calcium powder.
Handling
Due to their small size these gecko’s should not be handled unless it is necessary such as one escaping or full clean of the viv.
Cheers for any help

How about adding this. It’s from the guy who I get my Gold Dust Day Geckos from he is a Zoologist working in the UK and travelling to Tanzania on regular trips monitoring williamsi. This is in his words when I asked about williamsi as there fantastic and i would love one but....
“On the whole they are illegally smuggled out of Tanzania to fulfil the pet trade. They originate from a tiny area in Tanzania (a single forest) and should be left alone. There are lots for sale on the net but they are pretty much all illegally collected and shipped under a different name, apart from tiny baby ones that you see bred here which will be born and raised here (but still derived from illegally collected parents). If you have any ethics about the animals, stay well clear of the williamsi as they will be pretty much wiped out soon at the rate they are being collected”.

[GlasgowGecko]

Originally Posted by eco_tonto

Fruity baby food is a good food source, males shouldn't fight to the death tbh, once the squabble is over one of the males goes very dull and is the submissive male, and the other will remain fired up, they should only fight again if moved to a new enclosure or if the current one is changed around. I would recommend mentioning viv runners for laying in a breeding section.

Other than that pretty good Rossy!

Whilst in some instances this may be true, it strikes me as pretty bad advice. In the tank size the OP mentioned, there would be no escape for the subordinate male, and he would certainly end up with injuries. Any suggestion of keeping very highly territorial animals together is very poor advice.

Andy

[eco_tonto]

Im not advising anyone keep multiple males together, i was just mentioning that they shouldn't kill one another

[ridgie]

Originally Posted by eco_tonto

Fruity baby food is a good food source, males shouldn't fight to the death tbh, once the squabble is over one of the males goes very dull and is the submissive male, and the other will remain fired up, they should only fight again if moved to a new enclosure or if the current one is changed around. I would recommend mentioning viv runners for laying in a breeding section.

Other than that pretty good Rossy!

Personally, I don't think giving geckos human baby food is right either. Rapashy is best.

[SRAWL]

Just a quick question on the lighting/heating for williamsi. I am looking at getting a pair and was thinking a basking light would be best to provide heat and UVA. I was talking to someone in a shop and they advised a heat mat on the side with a controller and a seperate UVA light. I already have a UVA light which also provides a certain amount of heat so I figured this would be ok, any suggestions? Is having a UVA light that provides some heat for their basking and a seperate controllable heat mat for the temp ok?

Cheers

Srawl

Edit: The idea being that the light wouldn't be on and off but the heat mat would be. I was originally thinking of having two lamps (the heat and uva) on so this would not have been an issue but I think the temp would have been too high.

[The Doug]

Old thread I know, but wondering if the plight of these wonderful animals has changed. I am pondering on whether to purchase a pair of parker day geko's. Not sure if they are the same geko in question. My hope is that doing this I can breed them and in doing so relieve the preesure on wild caught specimens. Conservation is the paramount issue for me.

[crestietom]

have they got the type of skin that tears if you rub it?

can i have a bit of info on handling please?