dwarf sungazer caresheet (updated)

[cordylidae]

when i was getting mine i found it hard to find much information on them so now i have a lil experience i thought I would write a care sheet

scientific name=Cordlyus Tropidosternum
these are commonly known by other names such as girdled lizard and armadillo lizards

description:
They are found in Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe the have spikes down the back and tail are browny colour with black and white/grey spots and a white belly they are about 7"-10" (inc.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
housing:
these lizards will climb if they can i wouldn’t say they were arboreal more semi however still give them space to climb i would say a 60x45x60 Exo terra would hold two however more space is always better only one male should be held per enclosure one male with multiple females can work however this is not guaranteed so be prepared to separate, if you are going to add a new lizard to the cage it should be quarantined for at least 3 months so u can monitor it for any illness or parasites this is very important to do as illness may not show up straight away and may pass it on to other animals. The animal should be held in a different cage/viv and preferably different room
---------------------------------------------------------------------
temperatures & humidity:
a cool side at around 20c is acceptable with a basking spot of 33-37c
a 10 or 12% U.V tube should be used as they are diurnal
Incorrect lighting can cause problems such as metabolic bone disease.

RH(humidity) should be around 50%

---------------------------------------------------------------------
diet:
dwarf Sungazers are Insectivorous although fruit will be taken occasionally all food should be no wide than the gap between it eyes

foods to be used as a staple:
Dubai Roaches ,Crickets ,Locusts

occasional:
Mealworms ,Pheonix worms etc.

rarely:
Waxworms (highly addictive and high in fat)

i have heard of mango and banana being taken by them however bananas bind calcium so should be fed rarely

gut loading/supplementing:
food should be supplemented with calcium dust(no d3 or phosphorus) on weekdays and Nutrobal on the weekends(available from any decent rep shops)
bee pollen granules can be used to feed/gut load live food or can be ground into dust and dust live food occasionally(available from Holland and Barret or pro reptile)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sexing & breeding:
sexing is difficult with this species in particular most people sex by the shape of the body females are slim and have sweeping curves whereas males are more broad both sexes have femoral pores

according to the Talbo(linked below) site breeding requires Brumation/hibernation for 6-8weeks at 10-15c before Brumation is initiated food should be slowly cut down until you do no feed and lighting should be slowly shortened this will give them time to digest the food and then slow down their metabolism if they are feed while they are about to Brumate or while they are Brumating food will rot inside them.

However, I have spoken to a polish breeder who informed me that he had breed this species without Brumation he told me that in November-January to increase humidity

Here is data regarding there climate. The humidity and rainfall is the main thing focus however I suppose the ambient temperature could be changed according to the data but there should always be a cool side and a basking spot within 33-37c





---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
temperament:
they are skittish and do not really enjoy being held but some may tolerate handling in time
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
substrate:
substrate is highly debated over loose substrate or kitchen roll etc
it is down to personal choice but i will list possible substrates
recommended:
eco earth
play sand
Exo terra sand
kitchen roll
newspaper
lino
excavator clay

do not use:
calci sand(http://www.petzoo.co.uk/product_info...roducts_id=467
woodchip
kiln dried sand/builders sand(this is notorious for having peices of glass in which could cut your lizard and if ingested would cause potentially fatal internal bleeding)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
mixed species:
I have heard of these being mixed with leopard geckos with success I do not personally do this but have heard of it being done with success in larger cages
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
good reads:

UV Guide UK - Ultraviolet Light for Reptiles - UVB reptile lighting on test
Brumation - Who, What, Why, When and Where?!
Engelsk_caresheet
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
comments welcome
and state if anything needs changing/adding

[jc_reptiles]

I bred this species in 2003. I didnt even play with temps, humidity or photoperiods as I had no intention of ever breeding them!

Interestingly, I had the juv's set up in a next to the adults. The female would go crazy, trying to get to them, even if they werent moving. I decided to add 2 out of the 5 to the adult viv, and sure enough, the female calmed right down, and would always be at the side of the babys. Pretty random really, but I do think this species may have some sort of parental care trigger.

Photo Gallery
(There are some pictures about 1/2 way down)

Great care sheet, wish I had one a few years ago!

[cordylidae]

Originally Posted by jc_reptiles

I bred this species in 2003. I didnt even play with temps, humidity or photoperiods as I had no intention of ever breeding them!

Interestingly, I had the juv's set up in a next to the adults. The female would go crazy, trying to get to them, even if they werent moving. I decided to add 2 out of the 5 to the adult viv, and sure enough, the female calmed right down, and would always be at the side of the babys. Pretty random really, but I do think this species may have some sort of parental care trigger.

Photo Gallery
(There are some pictures about 1/2 way down)

Great care sheet, wish I had one a few years ago!

thanks but the dam pics didnt work
maybe i can get it edited

[jc_reptiles]

[jc_reptiles]

finally sorted the pictures.


Here is an adult male. Mine all came in this weird rusty colour, and then shed and turned out as expected.




and the babies............

[cordylidae]

thanks for the pics
havent been on properly for a while cos of my damn comp

[Bamboozoo]

FYI..... I keep these little guys in a community tank. 4 ft long. With 2 leopard geckos, a very miniature bearded dragon and a starred agama. My female has always been very shy but the male takes his cue to scurry from the Bearded Dragon and has become much more relaxed. The bearded was given to me by a breeder who had held him back because he refused to grow. He is about twice the size now but still not inappropriately large for the environment.

[cordylidae]

got some viv pictures now :