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Old 28-05-2010, 10:53 PM
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Default Lygodactylus Williamsi (Electric Blue Gecko) caresheet

Lygodactylus williamsi (Electric Blue Day Gecko) Care sheet

The only place these are found naturally is the Kimboza forest, in Tanzania, which is being deforested at an alarming rate. Unfortunately most of these geckos available are currently w/c from the area, removed as logging proceeds. Hopefully c/b specimens will soon start filling the market instead.
Appearance
These geckos vary in length from about 6-10cm. The male is a vibrant blue colour, and the female is a shimmering olive/green. Both sexes are bright orange underneath. When they are unhappy, or occasionally when hiding in shade they may turn a darker shade. This is usually due to stress. They (like most geckos) have no eyelids and are able to climb glass thanks to lamellae on their toes. When the males are young or non-dominant they may also share the female’s colouration, so the best way to sex is checking for hemipenal bulges (at the base of the tail, where it joins the body). I find the easiest way to do this is to coax them into a clear container with air-holes (e.g. a cricket tub) and lift them above your head, checking their undersides.
Lifespan is not yet known, although it is believed to be up to 10 years.

Enclosures
My male/female pair are kept in an exo-terra 30x30x45cm terrarium. Groups of one male and two females have apparently been successfully maintained, but I feel than a 1.1 mix is better to remove dominance issues. NEVER keep two males together as they almost invariably fight. It has been managed in large vivaria, but I would not take the risk.
Recommended substrate is a humus/soil type, about 2 inches deep. This helps retain humidity. My geckos however are fine on a kitchen paper substrate (they have just finished undergoing mite treatments, something a lot of w/c specimens seem to come with). Live plants are a good choice, especially as this species glue their eggs to the surface of their choice. If they glue to a live plant it is easy to remove a chunk (plus eggs) to incubate. I also find they enjoy fruit branches/exo-terra bendy vines and the plants with suckers attached, which provide cover to the sides of the viv.

Temperatures and Lighting
Mine are kept at an ambient day-time temperature of between 25 and 28c, with a basking spot of 30-32c. A night drop to around 20c is believed to be beneficial. I aim for around 70% humidity, but 50-80% is believed to be fine. Higher relative humidity is recommended when they are coming up to shed. UV lighting should always be provided, mine is a 5.0 exo-terra, although I am soon upgrading to a 7.0 arcadia. I provide this for 12 hours per day, as Tanzania is equatorial, so in my opinion a 12/12 split is best. There is no real variation in temperature and daylight hours through the year, so I provide no variation.
Feeding
Adults should be fed on flightless fruitflies and/or very small crickets. I dust every live feed with calcium powder, and Nutrobal/vitamin supplement on the weekends. Fresh, non-citrus fruit may also be licked by the geckos. I find at least one of mine enjoy Repashy, a powder food made for crested and day geckos. I have the papaya flavour.
Youngsters should be fed 2x daily. Micro crickets would suit. I have no experience with them (yet!) but I believe the dusting regime should be the same as the adults.
Water should be available in a dish at all times, but they will usually only drink from droplets on the tank, so daily spraying is important. I use filtered tap water.

Breeding
Courtship behaviour is believed to include head bobbing and face licking. I have not experienced this, but have eggs none the less! Eggs will be glued to something in the viv (or indeed, the viv itself). Usually a pair of eggs is laid glued together, although a single egg is not unusual for a first/last of the season. Incubation temps are believed to be about the same as viv temp, around 26-30c, I have mine incubating at 28c. The young should not be left with the adults, as they WILL eat them. If the eggs are glued somewhere in the viv that they cannot be removed from, stick a plastic cup with airholes (tiny!) pierced in it or a mesh tea strainer without the handle over the clutch.
Mites
The mites that usually appear on w/c geckos appear as small red dots. They must be removed as the cause the gecko stress and can even lead to death.
To remove the mites, place them in a tub with a lid. I use a small really useful box (don’t leave them in there – no air holes!). Pour olive oil onto a clean cotton bud, then dab it onto each individual mite. If the gecko makes a break for freedom, simply slip the lid back on quickly. You’ll get the hang of it fast! Leave for a day or two and if the mites have not fallen off, repeat. You will have to regularly disinfect the viv whilst they are being treated, and prepare for the mites to come back after a while, when any eggs hatch. Do not put any live plants or anything that cannot be frozen or microwaved into the viv until all traces of mites have been gone for over a month, as otherwise you will keep re-infesting.

Thanks for reading!
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Old 28-05-2010, 10:55 PM
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Old 29-05-2010, 12:12 AM
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thats really interesting how long does it take them to mature - i have 3 in separate tanks at the moment all are doing well but very very very very tiny - closely monitoring them but dont want to put them together for fighting reasons.
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Old 29-05-2010, 08:21 AM
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I've heard it's about 9mths from hatching to maturity, but I'm still at the egg stage atthe moment.
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Old 29-05-2010, 02:10 PM
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really good
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Old 29-05-2010, 03:13 PM
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) thank you i love watching them they are very clever little things and so damn pretty
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:27 PM
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bump!
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:21 PM
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thank you very much for your thread! its helped me learn what i need to do and how to look after them before i get some!!

Thanks!
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Old 13-05-2011, 11:32 PM
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Default leccy blue day gekco

anyone know how long they are pregnant for before they lay their eggs i have a proven breeding pair but have only just brought them and wondered how long it was for as they had been mating before i got them.
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:14 PM
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nice think u have just made my mins looking at a viv a Exo Terra Terrarium 90x45x60cm. and wanted something different to go in it was told the viv was really for arboreal reptiles gonna get some of these. would you recommend these as i have never had a reptile before and how many could i keep in the viv comfortably 1-3 /1-4 any input greatly appreciated
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