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Old 02-08-2008, 09:33 AM
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Default Yellow Headed Dwarf Gecko-Help please!!

Hi
My daughter is looking into getting one of these, thankfully we live near 888reptiles so have already got our viv and set up sorted, but being the responsible people we are , would like a care sheet at minimum or a book would be even better exclusively about this particular species. It's always good to have something to refer to if there are any worries about your pet but we are finding it hard to even locate a website with care details.

So if anyone can point us to a website or reccomend a book etc or even another owner who doesn't mind us asking them questions when required we would be very grateful!

Many thanks

Allison
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Old 02-08-2008, 09:57 AM
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Um. I dabbled with the idea of some of these a while back (also from 888 as it happens). It found some useful info. i'll see if i can trace it.

generally advice on care seems to similar to the larger day gex (Phelsuma).


This is about Lygodactylus williamsii but should be similar

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...williamsi.html.

http://beginnersreptiles.com/caresheets/YellowGecko.htm

Last edited by Axel01; 02-08-2008 at 10:08 AM..
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:01 AM
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i have them, they are not a handable gecko more visual than anything else, ive had mine now for over a year and every time you go near the viv they disappear great escape artists as well
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:11 AM
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Day geckos of the genus Phelsuma are different from other geckos for several reasons. Unlike most other geckos, day geckos are diurnal (active during the day) hence their name. They are also very territorial and they are very colorful. Most day geckos do not tolerate handling and should be thought of as a viewable pet instead of an interactive one. As with most animals there are exceptions depending on the individual gecko. Phelsuma have some fairly stringent care requirements, and beginning day gecko keepers should start with some of the easier to care for species such as Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis (Giant Day Gecko), Phelsuma laticauda (Gold Dust Day Gecko), and Phelsuma lineata (Lined Day Gecko). Even though most day geckos species have many common needs, there are also many different care requirements between species

Housing:
Most day geckos require a vertically oriented enclosure with many tall plants and bamboo to climb on. Smaller species should be housed in a minimum of a 10 gallon enclosure for a pair of day geckos. The larger species should be housed in 20 gallon or larger enclosures for pairs of day geckos. Individual animals and juveniles can be kept in smaller enclosures. It is also important to provide proper ventilation in the enclosure while keeping proper humidity. Unlike most other day geckos Phelsuma barbouri requires a horizontally oriented enclosure.

Decorations / Substrate:
Bottom substrate should be made up of a layer of tiny pebbles at least 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) thick for drainage followed by a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) layer of peat moss or Styrolite-free potting soil. Fine grade well-washed orchid bark may also be used as a top level substrate. Enclosures should be well planted with tall stiff leafed plants such as Sansevieria (Snake plant), Orchids, bromeliads, and other tropical plants. Both vertical and semi-horizontal bamboo stalks should be provided for climbing and basking. The semi-horizontal bamboo pieces should be placed near the fluorescent and incandescent lights for basking. Cork bark makes an excellent wall covering and also provides attachment points for epiphyte plants. It is also important to provide plenty of hiding places for day geckos which will help to reduce stress.

Temperature / Humidity:
Most species of day geckos require daytime temperatures of 81 to 89 degrees Fahrenheit (27 to 31 degrees Celsius) and a nighttime 10 degrees F. (5 degrees C.) temperature drop to around 70 to 80 degrees F (21 to 27 degrees C.). Most species of day geckos require a relative humidity of 50 to 85 percent that can be maintained by misting the enclosure several times a day. Plants and proper substrate are important in maintaining required humidity levels.

Lighting:
Adequate lighting is required for the day geckos and plants in the enclosure. Several full-spectrum fluorescent lights should be placed at the top of the enclosure. Vitalights or other reptile fluorescent lights that produce small amounts of UVA and UVB lights may be used. Screen is recommended under the fluorescent bulbs because most types of plastic and glass block a large percent of UV light. A small low-wattage (20 to 60 watt) incandescent or halogen basking light should also be provided on one side of the enclosure over specific basking areas so that the gecko can pick its preferred temperature. Lighting should be controlled by a timer and varied seasonally from 14 hours per day during the summer to 10 hours per day during the winter, along with a small temperature drop for three to four months in winter.

Food:
The main staple of a day geckos diet are insects which include crickets, waxworms, waxmoths, wingless fruitless, and flies. Most day geckos also eat fruits including papaya, mango, and fruit baby food. Phosphorus free calcium and vitamin supplements are very important in a day geckos diet and should be provided at every other feeding.

Breeding:
Breeding season is determined by temperature and photo period if the proper climate and diet are provided. As lighting hours and temperature increase in Spring, females should be provided additional food and supplements. Day geckos are either gluers or non-gluers. Non-gluers lay two or one calcareous hard-shelled eggs in a protected location such as a leaf joint or open bamboo section. Gluers attach the egg or eggs to leaves or other hard surfaces and are easily broken if an attempt is made to remove them. The eggs of gluers must be incubated in place unless the object to which they are attached can be moved to an incubator. Most fertile eggs can be incubated at a temperature of 82 degrees Fahrenheit (28 degrees C) with small variations in temperature and will hatch in 38 to 90 days depending on the species. Eggs can be hatched in an incubator by placing them on a small plastic lid placed on top of a bed of slightly moistened vermiculite (1:1 ratio of vermiculite to water by weight)
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:46 AM
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we als have some of these and as the poster above said, not handlable at att, they are so small and flighty! so if your daughter wants something to interact with then these are a definate no. if she wants something to watch and not touch then these are great little things
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:16 AM
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If you do a search on these forums for 'lygodactylus', you'll find quite a few posts. There's quite a few of us with these handsome little geckos.

Viv size 2'Hx1'Wx1'D is ample room for a pair.
They like it warm, mid to high twenties, and a basking spot 35-40C (20Watt spot).
Best housed in pairs, very territorial.
Food, all the usual insects, just smaller sizes. They also have a sweet tooth, banana, baby food, jam, anything sweet they'll have a lick at.
Not for handling, but they will calm down enough to take food from hand.
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Old 02-08-2008, 02:52 PM
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Hi all

Thanks for the good advice. I knew I could rely on you!!
My daughter takes being a budding herpetologist very seriously so is happy to observe and make notes and not to be handling all the time so these sound like an ideal addition.

Thanks again

Allison and Charis(10)
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Old 02-08-2008, 02:55 PM
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I wouldn't dare keep mine in a viv they would be out before you know it. I keep my dinky geckos in exo terras as i know these to be very secure and i've no need to worry.

Marina
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Old 02-08-2008, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marinam2 View Post
I wouldn't dare keep mine in a viv they would be out before you know it. I keep my dinky geckos in exo terras as i know these to be very secure and i've no need to worry.

Marina
I agree i had 2 of these and hatched a baby the care is a nightmare and and they are GREAT escape artists, they are not readily bred in the uk i think only one other member has had any luck breeding them this year.
So the ones from 888 may well be WC.
Not only that feeding then can be quite difficult as small crickets die quite quickly and fruit flys always seem to find a way to escape.
I wouldnt dream of keeping them in a viv at all mine were kept in an all glass tank.
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/lizar...ml#post1808818

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/lizar...52-eggs-d.html

This is a hatchling
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/lizar...t-hatched.html

If your daughter wants something just to look at why not try a day gecko or a golden gecko very funny to watch
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