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Old 09-04-2012, 10:51 PM
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Default Black Fungus Disease on Baby Iguana...

So a year or so ago, my female Bosc got this and we took her to a vet thinking she had just burned herself on her light. He wasn't a reptile vet, but he'd seen it before and just said we should bather her everyday and spray her with diluted iodine and do the same to her vivarium. It worked. I took a few months but, apart from a nasty scar on her back she's fine. We, and the vet however think that the infection effected her brain as she seems to be a bit vacant. Still eats perfectly and is nice and fat and lively, just a bit special.

Anyway, we bought a baby Iguana in November last year. He seemed healthy enough, ate well, bright eyed lively little critter. We noticed some grey scales around his rear end when we bought him and just assumed and were told that he was in shed. Over the next few weeks the scales didn't shed, but the grey-ness spread, we consulted a Reptile vet and were told that baby Iguanas are often bad shedders, We'd only ever had Juvi or Adult iggs before, and our 4 year old Iguana was and is still a fabulous shedder, but we took the vets word.

The hard grey scales came off in a soak, but his whole left back leg, left front back leg and his left eye have damp discoloured scales. We are once again treating with VERY VERY diluted iodine (And we do NOT let him get ANY in his mouth) it seems to have halted the spread, however the stress of daily treatment and baths is causing him to go off his food and he will not drink. I am feeding him by hand everyday, but he will only take a few wax worms (dusted in calcium and D3 powder, to give him a shot of fat and vitamins), and a few leaves if I put them in his mouth when he tries to bite me...

Does anyone have any experience with this horrid disease. We don't want to loose the little guy, he's such a joy. Why is it only on his left side...?
And why will no vet give me something more effective!!!!????
Is there something I can get from the shops/internet. Iodine doesn't seem to be as effective this time. With our Bosc, you could see the difference in a matter of days.

HELP!!!!???!!!???

I also NEED to know if it will spread between species. I have very young Leopard geckos and I am going overboard with having a shower, changing all my clothes and sterilising my hands before going anywhere near them. Luckily they are all upstairs and the Iguana is downstairs.
If my leo's are likely to get it I will need to stop all contact with the Iguana and leave it to my mum, considering it is her Iguana anyway, but she will need to know if there is anything else she can do.
I might even move the Leo's to my grandparents until it clears.
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1.0.0 - Coastal Carpet Python (Morelia spilota mcdowelli)
1.0.0 - Chinese Water Dragon (Physignathus cocincinus)
1.0.0 - Frog Eyed Gecko (Teratoscincus roborowski)
1.0.0 - Californian King Snake (Lampropeltis getula californiae)

0.1 Sprollie - Floss, 1.0 PatterJack - Flynn, 0.1 Belgian Malinois - Dally, 0.1 German Shepherd (Straight Backed) - Isa.
On a waiting list for a 1.0 Dutch line Belgian Malinois puppy for August!




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Old 10-04-2012, 02:09 AM
Salazare Slytherin's Avatar
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Hia,

Assuming this is a green iguana we are talking about?

They are 100% herbivores, there is absaloutely no need to be feeding your iguana wax worms or any other type of wild food (treat or otherwise) which will be doing no good to his health in the long run.

A diet sheet can be found here to follow ontil you gain more info.
Food Information Chart
They need a very rich calcium diet and in my opinion offerd a wide variety of food items along side it.

The baby's habitats are infact completely different to the adults so it should not be calculated in any way shape or form when comparing shedding issues or other differentials in husbandry baby to adult.

Have you tried offering the food dish at a height opposed to ground level?
This is the kind of food dish I offer,



make it as colourful and attractive as possible and bompard the enclosure with some fake plants to help make him feel safer and more secure which will help encourage him to eat, many keepers have shy igunaas that will not eat in the open and they sometimes cover them up and leave them alone for a while to try and encourage it.

I won't go into the UVB etc because you probibly already know all this from keeping an adult?

How is your set up laid out is it a terrestrial or arboreal enclosure and can he climb on anything? are you using substrate of any kind? if so I would remove it and use newspaper for now (often pet shops sell iguanas in this condition that have been forced to live on damp substrate with nothing to climb on or escape it), I haven't expirneced any kind of fungal disease personally I have only ever read about them of other keepers (usually the USA) on iguana groups and forums so I would have no idea how to advise anything about that, but the cases I have read of haven't exacly been a walk in the park and often ends in bad results.

If you can get a picture up that would be a fantastic starting point for someone who may have expirienced to offer further advise.G
Good question about a vet not giving you something more effective? hmmm I don't know but I am paying for a service (and vets don't come cheap) I would be asking for something and explaining that it is not helping.

Often it takes the expirience of the keeper and the expertise of the vet to come together to have as significant outcome so I would be stamping my feet and making a big song and dance about it if one of my kids was ill and they were not getting the right treatment? thats just me though.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
They are 100% herbivores, there is absaloutely no need to be feeding your iguana wax worms or any other type of wild food (treat or otherwise) which will be doing no good to his health in the long run.
I meant to say live food LOL.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:08 AM
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Oh, the guy at the shop said they were 20% insectivorous when young. :/

We have him on newspaper and he has logs to climb. His food is on a feeding shelf off the ground. He's only been off his food for a few weeks; but that's far too long in my opinion.

I'll try and get some pictures, but I don't want to stress him out any more than I need to.
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7.15.3 - Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius)
1.0.0 - Coastal Carpet Python (Morelia spilota mcdowelli)
1.0.0 - Chinese Water Dragon (Physignathus cocincinus)
1.0.0 - Frog Eyed Gecko (Teratoscincus roborowski)
1.0.0 - Californian King Snake (Lampropeltis getula californiae)

0.1 Sprollie - Floss, 1.0 PatterJack - Flynn, 0.1 Belgian Malinois - Dally, 0.1 German Shepherd (Straight Backed) - Isa.
On a waiting list for a 1.0 Dutch line Belgian Malinois puppy for August!




Website: http://rainbowgeckos.weebly.com/
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Rawwwrchazli View Post
Oh, the guy at the shop said they were 20% insectivorous when young. :/

We have him on newspaper and he has logs to climb. His food is on a feeding shelf off the ground. He's only been off his food for a few weeks; but that's far too long in my opinion.

I'll try and get some pictures, but I don't want to stress him out any more than I need to.
You aren't the first person and won't be the last who has fell victim to bad pet shop advice, but it is still the owners responsibility to look into their basic nutritional needs (but even then the internet can be a bad place for info at times, there is still websites kicking around that suggest this.

Great idea feeding at a height.

They are like most animals, "oppurtunisitic", which means they will eat what is placed in front of them, but they have a hindgut, similar to a cow, their entire digestion is designed to digest plant matter, the hindgut fermentation is responsible for around 40% of the energy extracted from foods.

If you have ever cared for iguanas who met a painful end through feeding "cat food" because of this myth that they are omnivore and not herbivore, you will see why people are around other threads get ratty about it, Feeding these kinds of food over a period can cause death through renal failure, kidney disease, and gout, and a whole host of other complications and health issues.

An iguana if it stumbles across a peice of droped sausage roll will devour it, but it doesn't make it a healthy option and nor does it mean it is a natural food or make it any more right than feeding insects?
I also am pretty convinced that a wild iguana from time to time may have died from eating the wrong thing?

They may accidentally consume live food as a bi product of eating plants, leaves and flowers, snails/eggs/ etc but it doesn't make in any more healthy, I am sure your iguana will get away with it, but I would stop doing this tbh.

If I was you I would get some nice neat fake plants in there and bompard his enclosure so he feels much safer and cover him up for a few days to encourage him to eat, alot of people often forget that baby iguanas in the "wild" stay in groups for a period after hatching as there is a much higher chance of survival in those groups before they go there own separate ways, your iguana does not have that or hasn't nor anything to make him feel secure or safe snatched up placed on display where peeps sat and pressed their ugly faces in on him and is now moved once again into an enviroment that he is totally unfamiliar with?, he has every possible reason to be stressed out I would think?

They can also suprisingly go a long time without eating.

^^that is just what I would do.

I would still be actively seeking a vet and explaining about the other issue, MK suggests that an antifungal cream of some kind may help or says something about a test etc? but you would have to check that I can't rightly remember off the top of my head, I also know that it can take a period of time for these things to clear up so the iodeine spray may actually be working if it's stoped spreading but it may take time to clear up fully? just something to think about maybe?
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:16 AM
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Thanks for all your help.
We will stop offering him the bugs like I said we've only ever had experience with Juvi's and adults :P
He has lots of fake ivy and a make shift curtain over the front of his vivarium.
If the fungus does clear, would you advise maybe getting him a vivarium buddy? Or is it a bit late now? I'd like the little guy to feel safer. I mean we have enough room for 3 fully grown adults. Our Juvi Male is about 5ft now and starting to fill out so we're starting work on the super Iguana house :P there'd be room enough in there for 3 when the other two grow, even if it had to be sectioned off to prevent breeding.

I did take a few months for my Bosc's to clear up; I'm taking the little Ig back to the vet on Friday and, like you said you would, I'm going to stomp my feet until they give me something more effective or give me a better indication of his chances.
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7.15.3 - Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius)
1.0.0 - Coastal Carpet Python (Morelia spilota mcdowelli)
1.0.0 - Chinese Water Dragon (Physignathus cocincinus)
1.0.0 - Frog Eyed Gecko (Teratoscincus roborowski)
1.0.0 - Californian King Snake (Lampropeltis getula californiae)

0.1 Sprollie - Floss, 1.0 PatterJack - Flynn, 0.1 Belgian Malinois - Dally, 0.1 German Shepherd (Straight Backed) - Isa.
On a waiting list for a 1.0 Dutch line Belgian Malinois puppy for August!




Website: http://rainbowgeckos.weebly.com/
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2012, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawwwrchazli View Post
Thanks for all your help.
We will stop offering him the bugs like I said we've only ever had experience with Juvi's and adults :P
He has lots of fake ivy and a make shift curtain over the front of his vivarium.
If the fungus does clear, would you advise maybe getting him a vivarium buddy? Or is it a bit late now? I'd like the little guy to feel safer. I mean we have enough room for 3 fully grown adults. Our Juvi Male is about 5ft now and starting to fill out so we're starting work on the super Iguana house :P there'd be room enough in there for 3 when the other two grow, even if it had to be sectioned off to prevent breeding.

I did take a few months for my Bosc's to clear up; I'm taking the little Ig back to the vet on Friday and, like you said you would, I'm going to stomp my feet until they give me something more effective or give me a better indication of his chances.
I wouldn't advise it tbh, I was just saying that these things can sometiems play a factor and was emphasising the point of trying to make him feel safe, "expirienced keepers have tried it and sometimes it has worked, sometimes it hasn't? I keep all my iggs separately or did and now only have one, the only intereaction they had was possibly roaming or in the bath tub, but other than that they had zilch between each other, babys who are housed together may begin to show dominance as they mature which would mean they would need separating eventually too.

I would just leave him alone and try and get him to adapt to his new enviroment and leave it at that (plastic plants etc) (especially if he is going back to the vets etc which will stress the hell out of him further so its important he has somewhere he can feel safe when he gets back), it may go completely wrong and sometimes has with co-habitations and it isn't something I would be looking at now? I would say an expirineced keeper may get away with it and an expirienced keeper might not either, the chances are they will pick up on behaviors before they escalate from having kept or gained the expirience for many years, for someone who hasn't been around or gained the knowledge my answer is no, don't do it.

Infact just don't do it at all if its possible.
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