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Old 24-01-2010, 01:19 PM
Egg
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Unhappy Leopard Gecko not feeding

Hello, I have recently recieved a leopard gecko which came with a 60x45x45 Exoterra viv. I am wondering if this is too big as I am having trouble raising the heat above 25-7 degrees c, and according to the guy who sold it to us, this is the reason why it has stopped feeding.

The wattage of the lamp is 40 watt and will be replacing it with a 60 watt bulb today, but because of the design of the viv I am unable to put the lamp inside and it is currently sat ontop of the wire mesh covering.

Any help would greatly appreciated as I have already lost 1 Gecko - which the shop replaced, and I don't want to lose another.

Last edited by chuftonic; 24-01-2010 at 02:19 PM..
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Old 24-01-2010, 05:14 PM
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you'd be best picking up a heat mat.. a 17x11 or an 11x11 would be fine for that size exo terra.
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Old 24-01-2010, 07:00 PM
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Glass doesn't hold any heat/temperature which is why you are probably having trouble getting a decent temp (Gecko's need 32 degrees C in the warm end as heat from underneath to aid digestion). Wooden vivs are so much better at keeping good temps. There is a good website where they sell really nice vivexotic vivs, the website is Homes 4 Reptiles - Buy Vivariums online for Reptiles and Snakes UK They sell 2' vivs for as little as £39.49 A 2' viv will be fine for your Gecko.
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Old 24-01-2010, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuftonic View Post
Hello, I have recently recieved a leopard gecko which came with a 60x45x45 Exoterra viv. I am wondering if this is too big as I am having trouble raising the heat above 25-7 degrees c, and according to the guy who sold it to us, this is the reason why it has stopped feeding.

The wattage of the lamp is 40 watt and will be replacing it with a 60 watt bulb today, but because of the design of the viv I am unable to put the lamp inside and it is currently sat ontop of the wire mesh covering.

Any help would greatly appreciated as I have already lost 1 Gecko - which the shop replaced, and I don't want to lose another.

how long have you had this leo? most don't tend to eat for a little while after 'moving house'. that viv sounds the right size for a leo (if i'm right in thinking that's 24"x18"x18").
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some will say leos are boring too but its not the keeping of them that I love its the genetics. Obviously I enjoy keeping them too but beardie morphs all look similar to me other than leather backs that look like saggy balls. lol
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Originally Posted by maddragon29 View Post
Taking over from quadrapop, i wouldn't keep a leatherback beardie as they look like a dragon with a foreskin pulled over it.
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Old 24-01-2010, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicquita View Post
how long have you had this leo? most don't tend to eat for a little while after 'moving house'. that viv sounds the right size for a leo (if i'm right in thinking that's 24"x18"x18").
This is true. But the Leo won't eat unless the temps are higher. Heatmats are by far the best method of heating for a Leo imo. It is the temperature of the substrate that matters - not the air temperature. It needs to be about 31-32C. Get a heatmat and a thermostat is the best option. You could also try insulating the back and sides of the viv with polystyrene or similar. This would also make the Leo feel more secure and less stressed.
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Old 25-01-2010, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jools View Post
This is true. But the Leo won't eat unless the temps are higher. Heatmats are by far the best method of heating for a Leo imo. It is the temperature of the substrate that matters - not the air temperature. It needs to be about 31-32C. Get a heatmat and a thermostat is the best option. You could also try insulating the back and sides of the viv with polystyrene or similar. This would also make the Leo feel more secure and less stressed.
i think i may have actually mentally bypassed the whole post barring the initial question
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadrapop View Post
some will say leos are boring too but its not the keeping of them that I love its the genetics. Obviously I enjoy keeping them too but beardie morphs all look similar to me other than leather backs that look like saggy balls. lol
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Originally Posted by maddragon29 View Post
Taking over from quadrapop, i wouldn't keep a leatherback beardie as they look like a dragon with a foreskin pulled over it.
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Old 25-01-2010, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuftonic View Post
Hello, I have recently recieved a leopard gecko which came with a 60x45x45 Exoterra viv. I am wondering if this is too big as I am having trouble raising the heat above 25-7 degrees c, and according to the guy who sold it to us, this is the reason why it has stopped feeding.

The wattage of the lamp is 40 watt and will be replacing it with a 60 watt bulb today, but because of the design of the viv I am unable to put the lamp inside and it is currently sat ontop of the wire mesh covering.

Any help would greatly appreciated as I have already lost 1 Gecko - which the shop replaced, and I don't want to lose another.
Thankyou all for your responses, I have a heat mat at one end and upped the wattage of the lamp to 60watt which has raised the ambient temp during the day to about 28 degress, but it still not feeding. Initially it feed but stopped feeding about a week ago and being as i lost one already I am becoming a little worried. Could it be that the crickets are too large - the guy in the pet shot told me that shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 25-01-2010, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuftonic View Post
I have a heat mat at one end and upped the wattage of the lamp to 60watt which has raised the ambient temp during the day to about 28 degress, but it still not feeding. Initially it feed but stopped feeding about a week ago and being as i lost one already I am becoming a little worried
as already pointed out by Jools what counts most is the floor temperature not the ambient air temps ~ with the thermometer taking the temps at ground level ~ which is why I only use statted heatmats plus the leo needs a hot floor end and a cool floor end so that it can thermoregulate properly.
If they cannot thermoregulate and/or the temps are wrong then the leo's appetite and digestion become depressed and it cannot/will not eat
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Old 25-01-2010, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepyD View Post
as already pointed out by Jools what counts most is the floor temperature not the ambient air temps ~ with the thermometer taking the temps at ground level ~ which is why I only use statted heatmats plus the leo needs a hot floor end and a cool floor end so that it can thermoregulate properly.
If they cannot thermoregulate and/or the temps are wrong then the leo's appetite and digestion become depressed and it cannot/will not eat
You will have to excuse my ingorance but this is my first gecko. the heat map is outside the viv as directed by the shop, and the temp ontop is about 30. C. Would it better inside?
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Old 26-01-2010, 02:33 AM
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How thick is and what substrate are you using? The heatmat should go outside a glass viv - that is correct. You could try standing the viv on top of a layer of polystyrene - just make sure you raise the viv by a few mm to create a little bit of airflow underneath. You should also have your mat on a thermostat to stop it overheating and cracking the glass.
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