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You're right about the bars - I have an indoor aviary, but the elderly or ones that need recouperating go into Ferplast cages. I've removed the wooden perches that are supplied and use stripped apple tree branches as being thinner they're easier for them to grip.
You could look in Cage & Aviary, its out on Thursdays, as some breeders will have paired up and should have some chicks. Others will only just have paired so would be another 6 weeks before they have young ready. I presume you want young ones. They are lovely birds to keep with some wonderful colours, I have 24, 3 cockatiels, a Senegal and an African Grey. |
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If you want one to talk then generally go for a male. If you get a pair make sure they are unrelated as you dont want inbreeding. I would personnally go for a breeder and get some off them. Most breeders supply pet shops and sell for about £5 each. Also you cut down on stuff like mites and scaley face and foot. Make sure like with any cage it has a lock on it as they CAN open cages lol. I had to have locks on most of my cages when i had a breeding stud of 500. Make sure you can sex budgies males have blue nostrills and hens have brown. However with youngsters they can both have blue. Hens usually have white rings around their nostrills.
Also make sure the birds have all their flight feathers as they could carry french moult which isnt a nice disease. I dont know much about indoor pet cages as i was a breeder. If you would like any more info then pm me. |
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What kind of age would be ideal to get them? |
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The best age is as soon as they have been taken from mum and dad. Usually breeders will keep them for a week and then rehome them to check that they are ok etc. Also to watch their 1st moult. You will struggle to find cheap lutinos the 1s in pet shops are usually double factor spangles with black eyes. Lutinos always have red eyes. Blue budgies also cost more to a pet shop as they are "pretty" so are pieds. If you get offered a pure black budgie do not touch it with a barge pole as its probably a "feather duster" which means they continuously grow their feathers and never moult causing them to die young. To reduce stress on a budgie when moving it i recommend investing in some Spark or Critical Care as i used to give them this before a show. Like all birds upon handling budgies can have a heart attack and i have lost show birds when plucking their spots due to this. Also if the bird is unwell during a moult then both work. I would only get one or the other and put a small amount in the water when you get them. If you get younger birds then its best off giving them egg food in meals when you 1st get them as it will get them eating as some can be funny about different types of seeds. Stay away in pet shops for any older birds as they are usually ex breeding stock so a few years old. Check the rings if you can if they have them. A bird rung last year or this year as rings change in november will have the breeders number and then vertically 09 or 10 this is the year they hatched. Also if you would like to check the breeder then enter the number on the BS website and they will tell you. If you want to know more then i can answer most questions. I bred budgies from the age of 5 to 15 and won National Levels with my birds in the Junior classes. |
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I've also seen some that are both blue and green and I really like them, so if anyone knows what they're called that'd be cool.
I believe I can tell babies by the barring on the heads too? Although they generally do look younger and fluffier anyway. |
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Alsooooooooooo.... What's the best covering for the floor of the cage? Newspaper/kitchen roll/sandpaper/sand/wood shavings ect? We used sand in college and I found it pretty effective, we sifted it bi-weekly, but I was a bit scared as some would eat seed from the floor.
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