Care Sheet of the Week

[wilhelmjoshuataniguana]

Every week, I'll give you a care sheet. it has been transferred.
Fly River Turtle Care Information

Although I can provide you information on what works for me in my personal Care Info page, I don't by any means consider myself an expert, so on this website i've included a bunch of other links to research the care needed for the Carettochelys species .

Remember that the shell serves the same purpose as skin. It of course is used to protect the interior of Fly River Turtle's body. If skin, or shell, is penetrated, that gives access to bacteria, fungal spores and parasites. Shell fungus infections, shell rot, spots on the shell, or other shell disease these turtles may suffer from, must be treated as if it were lacerated skin. The tissue and body cavity must be treated first before the shell is closed up.

My Personal Experience
If you've never owned a Fly River Turtle before, you might be somewhat nervous about the maintenance required. I've never owned a turtle before let alone a rare Fly River Turtle, but when I first saw the Pig Nosed Turtle through a friend, I immediately knew this was the first turtle I wanted to keep around my home. They are so interesting, curious, graceful, and unique. Like any new good pet owner I did alot of research before I picked one up.

I've read forums and have heard stories about other Fly River Turtle owners who received sick turtles suffering from shell disease, shell rot, spots on the turtle shells, or just eventually got sick and died in a short period of time. The most common problems the Pig Nose or Pig-Nosed turtles suffer from is infection by shell fungus which appears on the upper top of the shell. Well it's not a problem if you keep in mind a few basic requirements regarding water conditions to prevent the inhabitants of fungus. Excellent water conditions will help prevent shell fungus overall and if these Turtles are healthy, they have no problems eating, so feeding a healthy turtle will be the least of your worries.

I received my Fly River Turtle sometime around May of 2005. As you can see from the Photos below they grow quite fast. The first photo was taken around June 2005, and the second photo of the Pig Nose Turtle was taken in November 2005. Yes this is the same turtle. The colors will vary from a light Olive to a Darker gray. Some say it depends on the amount of sun the turtle has.

As a small Pig Nose Turtle I started him out in a 10 gallon tank. From all the research I did, I pretty much treated the water as I would for a Cichlid. Kept the PH above neutral, the temperature around 80F, and made sure the water was hard. To help keep the PH up (someone advised me) I used crushed coral. Supposedly coral brings the PH up and things like drift wood can bring it down. The crushed coral doesn't seem to hurt the turtle as he seems to dig into it just fine. You'll need a good heater. Take my advise on this one and go get a really good heater. I think I had to go through three cheap heaters before I finally went out and bought an Ebo-Jager. It's ok to get one slightly larger than what you need for the tank as it just doesn't have to work as hard to heat up the tank.
As far as filtration goes, I just use one Aquaclear overflow. This is a photo of a smaller model than what I have. The turtle is now in a 20 gallon aquarium with crushed coral for the base and a few aquarium plants. I still only run one Aquaclear overflow made for 20-30 gallon tanks. It does great and you'll need to clean out the sponge at least once a week, and change out the carbon and ammonia filters maybe once a month.


Now if you've ever had a tank before with Plecos, a Turtle, and other fish, you know how much waste and garbage end up at the bottom of the tank. The overflow Filters don't always get the garbage at the bottom. Let's face it, it doesn't get the garbage at the bottom at all. But I'm not going to upgrade to larger filters since I don't want any heavy filtration causing too much water current in my small tank. I'm also not open to running undergravel filter systems because i'm using some fine crushed coral that this Turtle loves to dig into. So my only option is to end up sucking up the garbage with a siphon (aquarium vacuum) into a bucket. Problem with using this technique is you end up changing a huge percent of your water each time you do it.

Let's summarize my problem .
I don't want to run bigger filters.
I don't want to run an undergravel filter.
I want to siphon the garbage frequently, but I don't want to change the water too often.

It might sounds cheezy but here's what I came up with as a quick & cheap solution to all these problems. Filtering through T-shirts! Yup, just plain old white cotton t-shirts (clean of course) to quickly filter the water as I siphon it from my tank. This is a real quick and cheap solution to filter out any particles in the water you vacuum up from the bottom. This is especially perfect for those that run undergravel filter systems and want to clean the bottom of the tanks more frequently than when water changes are necessary.

The great thing about this technique is that you can remove as much water as you want (like 90%) since you'll be placing it back in the tank. There is no need to treat the water all over again such as balancing the PH, setting the temperature, removing the ammonia, growing healthy bacteria, etc. etc. I actually came up with this idea when I was putting a coffee filter into my coffee machine.

What you'll need is two large buckets, a large cotton t-shirt (2 shirts layered one on top of the other are better), and the siphon or aquarium vacuum. First suck out all the garbage you want using the siphon into one of the large buckets. When the bucket is full you'll notice you have a bucket full of water with a whole bunch of crap. Now place the shirts over the second bucket (layered one on top of the other) and pour the water right through like a coffee machine would through a coffee filter. The cotton shirts will quickly strain all the particles, waste, and garbage. Now you can pour the water back in the tank - less all the crap.

If you really want to get fancy, pick up a picture frame, stretch the t-shirts across (layering them to get the best filtering effect) and staple them on the frame using a staple gun. This way it holds up over the bucket when you're straining the water through it.

Of course this should not be a reason to never change a percentage of your aquarium water to new water every now and then. This process will also not filter the ammonia like activated carbon filters do, but it's a great cheap way for keeping the aquarium floor free of crap. Here's a photo of my last cleaning session. Afterwards I rinse out these shirts and then bring them to a laundry mat.



I also changed the bulbs in the Aquarium to one of those reptile bulbs that put out UV designed for reptiles / turtles. I've read somewhere that this is not necessary for Fly River Turtles, but i've also heard that it doesn't hurt and most turtle species will need some type of sunlight or UV exposure.
By the way, they love to dig and hide into the sand or underneath something. Try not to use coarse rocks when setting up a cave-like hiding place as the turtle may injure himself if he panics and starts swimming in a frenzy.

I found the easiest thing to start my turtle off when he first came home was with the sinking wafers and pellets. There are basically two different types you can try, but variety in your turtle's diet is key so keep trying the fruits and vegetables. They may do fine on sinking pellets for weeks at a time but in the long run this shouldn't be the main staple.



Look what I happened to find. There's even a picture of a pig nose turtle on the cover. My turtle has not eaten this stuff (as far as I can tell).

In the tank I have also two Plecos and a bunch of guppies. They say it isn't a good idea to have fish that can potentially suck on your turtle's shell in the tank as it may cause problems for any open wounds or sores. I'm keeping an eye on them everyday and for the months they've been together I have not seen any issues.
Most people will tell you these Pig-Nosed Turtles will eat only fruits and vegetables, but my guppies will tell a different story. I thought he looked quite lonely one day and decided to get a couple of fancy fan tail guppies. They disappeared the same night. Not quite sure where they disappeared to, I purchased some plain old feeder guppies. They disappeared the same night also and I just happened to see a tail sticking out of the Fly River Turtle's mouth. I guess that answers my questions about the disappearing guppies.
So far I have not experienced any problems with my Fly River Turtle, but once I began to see some spots or imperfections on his shell. My friend told me that this is normal as they grow. I can't say I trust that a whole lot, but without any changes to water or diet those blemishes did go away.
I don't change the water too frequently as I don't believe they are a big fan of water changes. I might take out 10-15% when sucking up the garbage and then adding new water back in about once every few weeks. I do filter the water out more frequently by sucking up all the garbage from the bottom using the siphoning technique through a shirt and then putting that same water back in. This helps keep under control all the waste and garbage that my overflow filter can't get to.
To reiterate - I don't by any means consider myself an expert, especially for the treatment of disease, shell fungus sores, or fungal infections, so please do more research and get as much information from different owners. I have some links to helpful websites related to the Pig-Nosed Turtle here . These links may help you get an idea of how to treat and care for a sick fly river turtle suffering from shell disease or shell fungus infections.

Fly River Turtle Pig-Nosed Pig Nose Turtles - FlyRiverTurtle.com

[wilhelmjoshuataniguana]

This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential.

Red-foot tortoises are among the most popular and appropriate tortoises for beginning tortoise keepers. Stunningly attractive, their black shell contrasts with their yellow scute areola, bright red legs and yellow or red markings on their head. Being from multiple habitats, they are among the hardiest of species. As long as their requirements are met, Red-foots can be expected to give literally a lifetime of companionship. While they do get fairly large, one over 16 inches (40 cm) would be considered exceptional with most attaining a length of 14 inches (35 cm) or so. There is also a smaller "dwarf" variant called a Cherry-head that only attains a length of 10 - 12 inches (25 - 30 cm) as an adult.

Upon initial sighting, a Red-foot tortoise, Geochelone carbonaria, looks very similar to the closely related Yellow-foot tortoise, G. denticulata, with the primary distinction being the presence of yellow scales on the forelegs of the Yellow-foot and red scales on the forelegs of the Red-foot (thus the common names for each). However, of all of the differences between these two species, this is actually the most variable. While Red-foots may be more intensely colored, this is not a universal distinction; there are Yellow-foots that are very brightly patterned and comparatively drab Red-foots. While there are numerous morphometric differences between these two species, by far the easiest method of telling Red-foots and Yellow-foots apart is the differences in the scalation of their heads. Yellow-foots have elongated prefrontal scales and a fragmented frontal scale. Red-foots have shortened prefrontals and an intact frontal scale. The prefrontal and frontal scales are the scales at the tip of the nose. In addition to this obvious difference, female Red-foot tortoises are more elongated, looking much like a loaf of bread while older male Red-foots tend to develop an hourglass shape. Adult Yellow-foots of both sexes tend to be wider/ rounder and somewhat flatter in their overall shape.

Comparison of Prefrontal Scales of Geochelone denticulata and Geochelone carbonaria

Yellow-foot Tortoise

Red-foot Tortoise

HOUSING RED-FOOTS INDOORS - The most common form of indoor accommodation for small or medium sized red-foot Tortoises consists of a “turtle table’ To all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a hatchling is 2 feet by 3 feet as the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased. For an adult red-foot tortoise the indoor accommodation should be at least 6 feet by 4 feet Into the bottom of this “turtle table” holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food , water and eventually nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access.

The water area of the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes - it must also be shallow enough to protect from drowning. Cypress mulch is the indoor substrate of choice for this species due to it's humidity retention characteristics which in turn leads to good scute and skin health.

In one corner of the environment a 100W spot lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F (32 degrees C) or so in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism) If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapor bulb may be used that fulfills all requirements. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool dim retreat.

OUTDOOR HOUSING - Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered as an option during warm weather. Overall, this species does best in naturally humid climates outdoors. If your area is not naturally humid, water timers and a misting/sprinkler system can be utilized to artificially create one. Some areas of the habitat should be heavily planted to allow the Red-foot a cool dim retreat. Provision of a wet muddy area for wallowing will also be appreciated by your tortoise. Redfoots take readily to using a hutch or doghouse-like artificial retreat. In areas with cool nights a thermostatically controlled ceramic heater in such a retreat will provide the tortoise with an area that remains above 60 degrees F (16 C)

DIET - Red-foots are omnivorous, consuming both animal and plant material in the wild. In captivity this may be duplicated by feeding a minimal amount of low fat dog food or whole meat product once every couple weeks or so. Meat should not be fed as a part of the daily diet. Occasional earthworms may be fed as well. We have found that red-foots thrive on a diet supplemented with Mazuri Tortoise Diet which was initially formulated for the closely related Galapagos Tortoises.

The diet offered should consist of:

• Leafy greens (dandelions, clover, endive etc.)
• Fruits
• OCCASIONAL meat based protein.

Diets rich in meats are invariably high in phosphates and low in calcium. This can cause serious problems for tortoises who need high levels of calcium for healthy bone and carapace development. Additional calcium supplementation is therefore absolutely essential. For proper growth as well as egg production, powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods once a week to help meet these requirements. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if required, is also recommended. The substrate of choice is cypress mulch or something possessing the same humidity holding properties in order to keep their shells/skin from drying out in captive conditions. In outdoor pens in areas of high sand content, food should not be placed directly on sandy soil. Sand can build up in the tortoises GI tract leading to possible impaction and even death. A completely separate sand-free area in the habitat should be utilized to feed.

This species does not hibernate in nature. Facilities must be provided for the continued health and well being of the tortoise indoors in cooler (non tropical) climates.
Red-foot Tortoise Care - Darrell Senneke and Chris Tabaka DVM

[wilhelmjoshuataniguana]

Mata Mata Turtle Care Sheet

Care sheet for the mata mata turtle (Chelus fimbriatus).

By Al Roach



Click image to enlarge

A young mata mata turtle that was captive hatched in the United States. Their unique shape helps them to blend in with their surroundings.
Photo by Al Roach, Reptastic | Reptiles and Amphibians.
The mata mata turtle's pointy nose allows it to stay hidden under water in dangerous situations while still being able to breathe. Photo by Al Roach, Reptastic | Reptiles and Amphibians.
The brightly colored plastron of the mata mata turtle is one of its main attractions, along with its interestingly shaped head. Mata mata turtles can lay still at the bottom of shallow waters without being seen. A person is very likely to walk right past it unless they know what they are looking for.
Photo by Al Roach, Reptastic | Reptiles and Amphibians.
From a distance the mata mata's nose looks like a tiny twig. It slightly resembles the nose of a softshell turtle.
Photo by Al Roach, Reptastic | Reptiles and Amphibians.Mata Mata Turtle (Chelus fimbriatus)
The mata mata turtle is one of the neatest-looking turtles on the planet. It looks like debris found at the bottom of a vernal pool, such as leaves. In the wild someone might walk right past a large specimen. The carapace contains brown, red and black coloration. The species has a wide head and a pointy nose. Its neck has a rigid texture to help with the camouflage. Hatchling mata matas are more brightly colored and appear whitish or yellowish like a tropical leaf.
Mata Mata Turtle Availability
Mata mata turtles are quite available as of 2009. Although they are imported regularly, that might change in the near future. There is more supply than demand simply because the turtles grow so large and are not for beginners. Creating the proper enclosure for these turtles is one issue that keeps demand down.
Mata Mata Turtle Size
Mata mata turtles can measure more than 2 feet long. However, the typical size ranges from 16 to 20 inches long for full-sized adults.
Mata Mata Turtle Life Span
Exact details for the mata mata turtle life span is not really known, but most documentation shows the turtle’s average life is anywhere from 40 to 75 years. Some turtles can live more than 100 years if given the right care.
Mata Mata Turtle Caging
Mata mata turtle like slightly acidic water with a pH near 5 or 6. Increase acidity by adding sphagnum moss, which is very acidic. Shallow water is a good idea. A water depth of 8 to 10 inches for an adult, or 3 to 4 inches for a hatchling, is sufficient. Although these turtles spend much of their time in the water, they don’t swim around much. They lie still on the bottom most of the time.
Larger mata mata turtles, 16 inches and longer, require larger tubs or setups at least 4 feet by 4 feet. Smaller turtles can do well in smaller enclosures. The enclosure should allow for adequate room for the mata mata to move around. Make sure you have good filtration with these turtles. Oxygen flow is key because it helps fight unwanted bacteria in the water. Water should be changed regularly and kept as clear as possible.
Aquatic plants or artificial plants can be added for hiding places, which help reduce a mata mata’s stress. A log, branch or rock is a good idea for a basking area. Avoid using big rocks in the enclosure because this can cause cuts and scrapes that can lead to shell rot.
Mata Mata Turtle Lighting and Temperature
Water temperatures around 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit are fine. Mata mata turtles are found in tropical environments, so they require higher temperatures.
Position a basking light, such as a 75- to 150-watt heat bulb, about one foot above a basking spot. Add an additional UVB-emitting bulb for ultraviolet light. The basking area should be in the mid- to upper 90s.
Mata Mata Turtle Food
Mata mata turtles are carnivores and prefer live fish. Minnows, platies, mollies, guppies, goldfish and sunfish are a fine selection. I have seen some turtles take night crawlers, as well. It is unusual to have them feed on commercial foods. You can keep the enclosure stocked with fish at all times and allow the mata mata to feed freely.
Be sure to put plenty of feeders fish in the mata mata's enclosure. It can be difficult for your mata mata to try to catch one or two fish when it is hungry. Try to keep it stocked with 30 or 40 fish at a time. It will eat many at first and then a few here and there throughout the next 4 or 5 days depending on the size of your mata mata. A full size mata mata around can eat feeder (small) goldfish or larger rosies (minnows).
Mata Mata Turtle Handling and Temperament
I would advise against handling imported mata mata turtles until you get this species established and comfortable. This means the turtle is eating, active, and does not show any signs of illness or bad health.
Mata mata turtles hatched in captivity can be handled a little more often, but small hatchlings should start eating and show signs of growth before you do much handling.

From: Mata Mata Turtle Care Sheet