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I usually buy UVBs on eBay, from whoever has the best deal when I need them, you can usually pick up a 10% compact for around £10-12 inc post. You should finf Clamp Lamps on there too, to mount the UVB and the spotlamp.
The best place for spotlamps is a DIY store, where you can get a pack of 3 for around £1.50, and you can get a cheap timer there too, if you buy these items online you'll probably pay more in postage than the cost of the items! A heatmat isn't really much good, an aquarium heater is much better and has it's own built-in stat (I assume the stat was for the mat? In which case you don't need that either). A 50 litre tank is very small and you'll find that it needs upgrading within a few months, with that in mind you might want to get a bigger filter otherwise you'll just have to upgrade that too. It usually works out cheaper to get everything bigger than you need, otherwise you'll be constantly upgrading it which can be expensive. Calcium powder isn't much use with turts as it washes off as soon as the food goes in the water, good quality pellets will contain all the calcium they need, and you can still give them cuttlebone to nibble if they want.
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0.3.0 Southern Painted Turtles 2.4.2 Common Musks 1.0.0 Classic Cornsnake "Slim Jim" 0.1.0 Amel/R.Okeetee Cornsnake "Candy" 1.1.0 Phelsuma m. grandis "Desmond & Doris" 0.2.0 Tibetan Spaniels "Ruby & Sapphire" 1.2.0 Brahma Chickens 0.3.0 Lavender, Millefleur & White Pekin Bantams 0.1.0 White Silkie Bantam 0.1.0 Lionhead Rabbit "Maluka" 1.0.0 Belgian Hare "Geyser" 0.0.1 Grammostola pulchra 0.1.1 Brachypelma smithi 0.0.1 Avicularia sp. Guyana |
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What Graham said
![]() Congrats on your new additions, and well done for doing lots of research! You'll have to post some pics when you get everything set up. As for a substrate, you can get bags of decorative pebbles in diy stores, or if you are by a beach, you can 'borrow' pebbles from there, so long as you give them a good scrub and boil before putting in. A bare bottom makes cleaning a lot easier though. For timers, my local Poundland had mechanical ones in for £1 each (obviously!) so if you have a Poundland, have a look there. You mention a tank lid, you should have this off. Lids aid high humidity, which can cause respiratory problems. This can be fatal, so always have a turtle tank open topped. If you have no lid, you will have no trouble using clamp lamps to attach basking lights and UVB.
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Dawn 0.2.0 River cooters ~ 0.1.0 RES ~ 1.0.0 YBS ~ 0.1.0 Mississippi map ~ 0.0.1 Ouachita map0.0.2 Common musks ~ 0.0.2 Reeves turtles ~ 0.0.1 Spotted turtle 1.1.0 Hermanns tortoises 0.0.1 Albino chequered garter snake ~ 1.0.0 Butter corn snake 0.0.1 African clawed frog 1.0.0 Labrador ~ 0.3.0 Rats ~ 1.0.0 Chinese dwarf hamster 1.0.0 Rainbow land crab ~ Pancake & Velvet slugs ~ Snails ...The ones who love us least are the ones we'll die to please. If it's any consolation, I don't begin to understand. |
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I missed the bit about the lid, as Dawn says you need to remove this as it could be seriously bad for your turts.
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0.3.0 Southern Painted Turtles 2.4.2 Common Musks 1.0.0 Classic Cornsnake "Slim Jim" 0.1.0 Amel/R.Okeetee Cornsnake "Candy" 1.1.0 Phelsuma m. grandis "Desmond & Doris" 0.2.0 Tibetan Spaniels "Ruby & Sapphire" 1.2.0 Brahma Chickens 0.3.0 Lavender, Millefleur & White Pekin Bantams 0.1.0 White Silkie Bantam 0.1.0 Lionhead Rabbit "Maluka" 1.0.0 Belgian Hare "Geyser" 0.0.1 Grammostola pulchra 0.1.1 Brachypelma smithi 0.0.1 Avicularia sp. Guyana |
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I usually keep it off but my slider is a little houdiny and hes strong enough to pull the wood to the side and try and pull out of the tank. Im waiting on a new biger tank at 56 letres but I was looking at an 80. Only difference is the women only wants 15 quid for the 56 so its almost worth getting for the week or two it'll take me to find a good deal on the 80 letre i was looking at. I bought the filter to be 160 so i'll be able to cope with both.
I'll ebay now for the bulb. ANy particular brand I should go for and perticular style? The tank(80) i was looking at is an old glass fishtank and has a strip bulb holder would it be worth looking at strip bulb UVs or standard? I have a thermostat for the tank water but im struggling to find a way to measure the basking temp as i'd have to run a cable across the water and although waterproof itd distrub the little guys when swimming. Also any brand or model of heater I should use for turtle to keep it safe in a 56 letre tank but also an 80? would 80 be large enough for the two for long or will it be redunant quickly like the 56? I still cant believe the women being an exotics show owner knew so little about turtles and said that this tiny tank 20Ls will be good enough as long as I use a lamp. According to her knowledge the water would be 5 degrees to cold, basking about 8, diet terrible (i had to bug the owner for so long for pellets) and there wouldnt even be a filter so the'd always be in and out of the tank for cleaning. Considering she sells so many torts and turts you'd think she'd know. Im just glad I did manic research and was willing to put my hand in my pocket 100-200 odd quick for tanks filters and everything they'll need so I can fix her mistake. I understand why so many turts get neglected now and I intend to volenteer at the reptile rehousing shelter over summer near where I live. |
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oh and how far down into the tank water should I put the thermostats?
I'll post turt pictures and of the tank and all the products I get eventually with temps and timer settings for any advice when i get the 56 letre tank then again when I find a decent bigger one. |
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TBH an 80 litre tank won't last very much longer, they grow fast and whilst a small tank will do to start with your next one up should be a lot bigger, unless you're happy to change tanks every few months!
I wouldn't even bother looking at anything less than about 180-200 litres for a second tank, that way you can forget about upgrades for another year or more. Any brand of water heater will do, try to get one with a protective cover though, you don't need a thermostat with this as it has one built in. You shouldn't need to monitor the basking temp constantly, just set it so it's correct and check it once in a while, variations with background temps won't matter. I would use a compact UVB rather than a strip, it concentrates the light over the basking area where it does the most good, most of the output from tubes is wasted. Repti Glo are good ones.
__________________
0.3.0 Southern Painted Turtles 2.4.2 Common Musks 1.0.0 Classic Cornsnake "Slim Jim" 0.1.0 Amel/R.Okeetee Cornsnake "Candy" 1.1.0 Phelsuma m. grandis "Desmond & Doris" 0.2.0 Tibetan Spaniels "Ruby & Sapphire" 1.2.0 Brahma Chickens 0.3.0 Lavender, Millefleur & White Pekin Bantams 0.1.0 White Silkie Bantam 0.1.0 Lionhead Rabbit "Maluka" 1.0.0 Belgian Hare "Geyser" 0.0.1 Grammostola pulchra 0.1.1 Brachypelma smithi 0.0.1 Avicularia sp. Guyana |
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Please do remove the lid though. High humidity is even more dangerous in young turtles.
If turt is an escape artist, you'll have to find a way of securing the tank better! ![]()
__________________
Dawn 0.2.0 River cooters ~ 0.1.0 RES ~ 1.0.0 YBS ~ 0.1.0 Mississippi map ~ 0.0.1 Ouachita map0.0.2 Common musks ~ 0.0.2 Reeves turtles ~ 0.0.1 Spotted turtle 1.1.0 Hermanns tortoises 0.0.1 Albino chequered garter snake ~ 1.0.0 Butter corn snake 0.0.1 African clawed frog 1.0.0 Labrador ~ 0.3.0 Rats ~ 1.0.0 Chinese dwarf hamster 1.0.0 Rainbow land crab ~ Pancake & Velvet slugs ~ Snails ...The ones who love us least are the ones we'll die to please. If it's any consolation, I don't begin to understand. |
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