Reticulated python care

[Dan]

There seems to be a LOT of people getting retics lately.

Now i understand that they are more freely available in recent years thanks to the breeding efforts of people in the UK and through the appearance of major breeders at European shows.

The FACT is though these creatures are NOT like other snakes. They are highly evolved not just for breeding and feeding, but for mortal combat. If you look at the front teeth in the top jaw they are not only recurved but also tear drop shaped with a razor like edge on the back. This is purely for fighting, as when bitten retics spin. This spinning combined with the teeth results in deep slashing wounds.

If you treat your retic like any other species then you WILL find yourself on the wrong end of these teeth - end of conversation.

However, treat them like retics and they will be kind enough not to rip you to bits.

I am about to place a guide i wrote a few years back below this post. It does NOT include breeding notes. If ANYONE wants to know more about my own experiences then by all means drop me a line. If i can't help you then i will put you in touch with people who can. People who have genuine, long term experience and not a couple of months owning a couple of CB specimens.

[Dan]

HOUSING
Temp:
This is a tropical species from Asia and is generally found very close to the equator. As a result tropical temperatures of 90 - 95F in the warmer end are a good average to work from. However it is worth noting that due to the size of land this species covers some localities and specific snakes will be happy with slight variations on this. A maximum I would work with is105F and this is only for those animals that spend the majority of there time basking at lower temperatures. The act of basking itself is carried out to increase the body temperature of the snake until it reaches a workable level for the snake to begin its daily routines. A constantly basking animal is in need of a higher temperature spot and one that never basks requires this spot be lowered by a few degrees. Spending a few days with your snake and getting the temperatures just right for the animal will pay dividends when it comes to handling. The cooler end should be of no less than 70F and should be a maximum in the low 80’sF to reproduce natural temperature cycles.

Humidity:
Again due to the origins of this species the humidity levels as classed as tropical. They can often be found in rainforests or by streams and rivers, both of these habitat areas have a high humidity level. Therefor the humidity within the vivarium should be maintained at 60-80%. There are several ways to achieve this, including strategic placement of water bowls or misting the area with a spray bottle. There is also an option of a "damp" box. This is usually a box filled with wet moss or newspaper designed specifically for the snake to enter as and when it comes to skin shedding.
Which ever you chose you will have only until the snake begins to shed its skin to perfect your method. If the levels are too low you will find the skin comes off in lots of pieces often leaving chunks on the back of the snake. This will have to be removed manually, which when you have a large nervous snake is far from an easy task. Often at this time many keepers raise the average levels by increased misting of the cage to ensure a clean and healthy skin is produced.


Heating:
There are various ways of heating a vivarium, ranging from heat pads/cables to ceramic bulbs. These are all commonly available from most pet shops. Heat rocks are unsuitable and can be extremely dangerous to the animal as they don't realize how hot the rock is and can severely burn themselves.
Whatever method you use to heat your vivarium, always make sure that the snake can't come into any direct contact with the source. If necessary use a protective cage to separate the immediate area around all types of bulbs, ensuring there are no gaps the animal can go around to enter the cage. Mats and cables should be placed on the outside of the housing to remove any chance of contact leading to burns. This also eliminates any problems that can occur through a faulty item or incorrect wiring. No matter what type of heat source you use there should always be a thermostat within the circuit, to control the temperature at a specific point within the vivarium. The heat source should warm 1/3 to 1/2 of the cage with a basking floor temperature higher than anywhere else within the environment you provide. Use a thermometer to gauge this accurately. It is essential to allow the animal an area that provides an optimal basking temperature and a cooler area so that the snake can thermoregulate.



Lighting:
12 hours on and 12 hours off is roughly what should be provided. Never leave white lights on continuously as this can cause stress. Red lights are an option for lighting as they don't disrupt the photoperiod and can be left on permanently to help heat the vivarium although they do mask the colours of the animal. A good idea is to either use some form of timer switch to automatically control the light timings or a switch connected to a photo-sensitive device which will turn the lights on and off depending on what the daylight is doing around you. This does mean you can’t rely on the bulb solely for heat but this is easily overcome with the addition of another heater.


Cage types:
Freedom Breeder Rack systems, contico type boxes and custom-built vivariums are all suitable for younger animals. However, cages must be escape proof, easy to disinfect, free of sharp edges, ventilated, and able to hold heat, ensuring proper temperatures. Your choice for housing reduces significantly as your snakes grow due to a lack of manufacturers willing to make such large enclosures. When the snake reaches a large size it is often easier and cheaper to make your own enclosures for your snakes. Avoid leaving unfinished wood and porous surfaces when designing custom cages, these surfaces are difficult to disinfect and often don't last as long as a finished surface. When sealing edges of your custom vivarium use aquarium sealant only as the other types contain fungicides that are dangerous to your snake's health. When varnishing use "yacht varnish”, as this is also safe to use with snakes. After sealing and varnishing your snakes new home leave to "air" for a week or so with the heat switched on in order to remove fumes and let it all settle properly.





IF you are lucky enough to know exactly which island or island group your snake comes from there are resources available online that note down daily temperatures, rain levels and how many hours there are with sunlight for the areas you are looking for in particular. This can help eliminate some of the early teething problems with shedding and finding the correct basking temperatures.




Size:
Enclosure sizes is a topic that can vary depending on who you ask. Some say enclosure length should allow the animal to stretch out half its length and the width should be a third to half of the animals length. Others (including myself) work to the theory that as long as the retic can stretch out completely around all the sides of the vivarium then it is fine. The first method is often based on the sizes other species require and is advocated by people with little to no experience. For example, say there are 2, 18 foot retics. The first is housed as described in the first method so the cage length is half the size of the snake and the depth is a third of the size making the dimensions 9x6. The second is housed in an enclosure using the second method and has just reaching the size where a 6x3 vivarium is too small. You work this out by adding up all the side lengths (6+3+6+3=18 feet).
There are some additional guides that can be used, for example when the snake reaches roughly 12 feet it will start to fill out. From this point onwards an enclosure should measure no less than 3 feet in depth to enable the snake to coil up in the stereotypical manner.
What is clear, no matter which method of minimum sizes you decide to use, is the concern to be taken when aiming for a large enclosure. Retics can often be tame and tractable in smaller more confined spaces than they are in large spaces, this is territorial behavior. If the snake feels its enclosure is it’s territory then it will defend it by biting, head butting and musking. Yet if it feels the enclosure is just a hide space then this behavior never surfaces. Encouraging large retics to show this behavior is incredibly dangerous for anyone that has to interact with the animal at all. While I understand the desire to provide a large space for your pet which will look out of place in a smaller enclosure I simply can not tell you how important it is to fight this urge, for your own safety. Retics grow at an amazing rate, often reaching 8 feet or more within the first year. As a result don't buy a snug fitting cage for your hatchling expecting it to stay in there for much more than a month or so. The important thing here is to be prepared with each next size of vivarium ready as your snake begins to outgrow its old enclosure. When your snake reaches adulthood and a large size it will significantly reduce movements so trying to provide a space for the animal to wander is no longer necessary. A size of 7x3x3 for adult pet retics is usually a good rule of thumb, so if you don't have this space to devote to an animal then don't buy a hatchling.






Furnishing:
A water dish large enough to allow the animal to soak should ideally be provided. When the animal is small this is easy to achieve, however as the animal matures you will find it harder and harder to do. When you can no longer provide the size needed for a full body soak then reducing the bowl to a smaller more manageable size is the best idea. You can then take the animal to a bathtub or other suitably sized area every now and again so it can have a good soak. If the bowl is located near the heat source it will slowly evaporate creating humidity to help the snake shed but be aware as it evaporates you will need to top it up and change the water completely more often. Always provide clean water and disinfect the bowl weekly. A hide or shelter in both ends of the vivarium is ideal so the snake can thermoregulate in privacy if it so chooses. If this isn't possible locate at least one in the heated end so the animal does not have to choose between security and heat. Many older retics are noted to ignore hides and generally they do fine with out the confines of a specific hide area. Disinfect any natural furnishings you may wish to add before placing them in the viv. Retics, especially youngsters, love to climb so logs and branches are always welcomed. In the wild youngsters can often be found in trees looking for birds to prey on or resting above streams/rivers. When disturbed they drop into the water in an attempt to escape any possible threats.






Substrates:
This is yet another area up for dispute, which has two main courses for you to try out and follow. Newspaper or paper towels are safe and inexpensive and easy to replace. However they are by no means great to look at and struggle to hold humidity with any efficiency. Aspen, hemp and various other bedding may also be used; these often look much nicer than newspapers but need to be researched, as some are unsuitable for large snakes. Gravel, sand, mulch and wood shavings may cause health problems such as skin lesions and mouth rot so should be used with great care. Cedar is deadly to reptiles so avoid this at all costs!

[Dan]

FEEDING

In their natural habitat, they feed mainly on warm-blooded prey such as nesting birds, waterfowl, deer, pigs, rodents and other mammals. They are also opportunistic eaters that will devour recently deceased animals although this doesn’t fulfil a major part of their diet.
Frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth and a healthy animal. This should be reduced as the snake grows depending on the size of food offered. An adult snake is recommended to be fed an appropriate meal every 2-4 weeks when in a normal routine, this can vary depending on the health of the snake.
A baby retic can begin feeding on mice or small rats. Starting a retic off on rats is preferable as it can eliminate problems later on when changing from mice to rats as the snake progresses in size. As the snake reaches adulthood, you will have to change the food item to rabbits and guineapigs. If you have a large retic then they can also progress onto pigs and goats. I suggest that you try not to constantly feed only one prey item to your snakes as this will result in a swift and easy change over of primary food items when the snake is ready. I currently use quail, chickens and squirrels as an addition to the normal items. You will find that feeding poultry will result in a very runny and smelly defecation. However, while this isn’t pleasant for the keeper I do feel that it is good to feed such items every now and again in order to clear out the digestive tract of any old food that is undigested.
Generally retics are voracious feeders with a healthy appetite that can be highly aggressive. As a result of this food items usually only need to be placed in the vivarium or feeding container (depending on your choice) for the animal to feed. Feeding containers separate from the normal housing of a snake is often recommended, however this is rarely ideal or safe where a large retic is concerned. Moving a large, hunting snake is never a good idea and can result in injuries to yourself that could easily have been avoided.
It is said that snakes learn to associate opening of vivarium doors with food and will strike at anything entering, however if you handle your snake regularly then this association should not be a problem. Should this prove to be a problem for whatever reason there are several methods you can adopt to change this. A popular method is to tap the snake lightly on the head with a hook each time you enter the viv with the intention of handling.
Avoid handling after a meal, it is stressful and may cause regurgitation. If this does happen, don't panic no long term damage has been done. However if this does happen leave the snake in peace for at least a week before feeding again, as it will need time to rebuild up digestive fluids.
Never handle any item that the snake may think of as a prey item and then handle a snake, you may be mistaken as food. This is a common way to become yet another statistic of those people seriously injured through a large constrictor



Many Americans feed their snakes live prey items, this situation is highly inappropriate. There is no need at all to put the snake under risk from injury from a prey animal simply because it has been done for some time. Frozen items are always accepted (even if it does take some work for the keeper) and most keepers in the UK use this method with no problems at all, including hatchlings. While I have my own opinions on this I understand that live feeding is the way which many people carry out the task so I ask only that you follow these guidelines. If you do choose to use live food, never leave a prey item in the snakes cage for lengthy periods and NEVER unattended, a prey item can cause serious damage to your pet! Provide food and water for any animal left in the snakes’ cage longer than 30 minutes.
Developing proper feeding habits and maintaining feeding/health records is a good practice to get into as you can go back through records when in doubt about something. This can help to reduce worry on your part if your snake misses a meal or two, records could show a pattern of feeding and shedding that can explain sudden "problems".
Reluctant Feeders may be happier to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Try a variety of prey items and sizes. Could the snake be ill? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts and appears to be loosing weight, consult a veterinarian or experienced herpetologist. If a snake is reluctant to feed it may be induced by placing it in a locking plastic box (with air holes) with crumpled newspaper and leaving it for an hour or so, then introducing a food item.
Water should also be available to these pythons at all times. This will allow the snake to drink at its leisure and assist with proper humidity in the cage, which will lead to good skin sheds. Shedding is dependent on the animals’ growth rate and condition and typically occurs every 3-6 weeks when the animal is young. This can be a period that your snake refuses to feed so don't panic if this happens.
A reliable source of food is a major requirement that must be considered when purchasing a retic. As they grow larger, they will consume prey as large as rabbits and even young lambs, goats and pigs. If you can see a problem with being able to provide enough food or appropriate sized items for your retic please don't continue on and get the animal anyway. Many shops and web sites will tell you that if you feed your snake less then it will stay relatively small. This is very dangerous, to say the least. If you feed your snake less it will still grow but it will become undernourished and ill, often leading to death. If you want a small retic then please don't purchase one of the larger forms, there are plenty of dwarf retics on the market today and obtaining one isn't hard. Taking the time over your choice now will benefit everyone in the long run.

[Dan]

EQUIPMENT

There are several pieces of equipment that retic owners should keep on hand when working with their animals, especially if they are wild caught. Do not underestimate the value of the equipment listed here, as it can become very handy in a sticky situation. It is always better to be safe than sorry.

Hook:
A proper sized snake hook should always be maintained near the cage whenever the animal is being interacted with. The snake hook will allow you to keep distance between the keeper and one hundred teeth all coming towards you at a high rate of speed. As the snake matures you will find that a normal every day snake hook is of less and less use, I suggest you purchase a hook specially designed for this type of snake.
Spray Bottle of Vinegar/Whisky:
This can be a great ally in the event of a long bite. When bitten, spray the face of the snake. Once the snake tastes what has just been sprayed with, it will usually release its grip. The spray bottle allows the liquid to be dispensed quickly and accurately. Some keepers often suggest that hot water is also a good deterrent but this is rarely a practical idea unless you keep your snake in the bathroom. The main objective is to introduce a liquid that the snake finds so offensive that the bite is no longer worth the effort. Please make sure that what ever you use is not toxic before considering use. It would be a great shame to lose an animal through accidental poisoning
Snake Bag:
A proper sized snake bag that can contain a large snake is an invaluable tool. If the animal ever has to be moved from their cage, it is vital that the snake has a bag that can properly accommodate its size. It is usually necessary to make your own snake bag for large snakes. All that is needed to make a snake bag is a duvet case and some extra thread and a length of rope. It is recommended that the bag be at least double stitched in order to make sure that it is strong enough. There is a lot of pressure put on the stitching of the bottom of the bag so here it is recommended that triple stitching is carried out. The rope is stitched onto one side of the duvet, on the seem line, about 12-18 inches from the opening. This enables you to tie off the bag securing the snake without having to reduce the amount of space available. Remember that should the snake feel the need it will strike at you through the fabric, many people make this mistake and have the scars to prove it.

[bradhollands999]

Good care sheet... very informative... i'd love a Retic, but i'm going to wait till i have my own house and a lot more experience...

[cbmark]

good care sheet ive just realised your dan that used to use captivebred arent you ? where do you buy your hooks from dan ?

[Dan]

It depends what you like and for what job. I like something heavier so i mainly use golf club style ones. I have some midwest bits, some eurorep bits and some random Hamm purchased bits - which i use depends on my mood and the animal involved.
For non-venemous i generally just use a little 2 footer from Eurorep.

[cbmark]

i use the golfclub jobs but the ones i own have very little girth and im struggling to find any in the uk that are upto the job i use them to hook most things out of the viv as all my boas are snappy in viv not realy with the burms but ive one and hes snappy and just under 10ft so id like to avoid the tag if im honest

[Doodles]

I am glad you posted this I remember reading it ages ago when I was just getting into retics. Thought then and still do that it was the most helpful care sheet I have read on retics.

[Dan]

Originally Posted by cbmark

i use the golfclub jobs but the ones i own have very little girth and im struggling to find any in the uk that are upto the job i use them to hook most things out of the viv as all my boas are snappy in viv not realy with the burms but ive one and hes snappy and just under 10ft so id like to avoid the tag if im honest

I wouldn't like to get caught up in compairing boas and burms to retics to be honest. They have different reactions to different stimuli.