Boiga species care guide

[Angi]

Boiga species captive husbandry

Housing
A secure, tall, arboreal vivarium constructed out of a material which will withstand high humidity is recommended for all species of Boiga apart from B.trigonata, which are reportedly terrestrial. A widely accepted rule of thumb for minimum vivarium measurements is to make the sum of the length plus width equal the adult length of the snake. Aim for a vivarium height that is equal to half of the snakes adult length. These measurements should allow your snake to exercise itself and will facilitate a good temperature gradient.
The vivarium will require good ventilation to avoid a build up of moulds and fungus as a result of high humidity.

Water and humidity
Some keepers spray with water once or twice daily, whilst others use misting systems and a few maintain humidity with waterbowls under the heating source and damp moss within hides. Personally, I prefer to give a heavy spray, in the evening aswell as providing a large waterbowl. There are many reports that Boigas do not drink from waterbowls, yet I have observe both B.cynodon and B.drapiezii drinking from fresh standing water. I believe that in the wild they are opportunistic drinkers, drinking when they can from whatever source they find, which is why I provide both standing water and mimic rain as best I can.


Temperatures
Find out as much as you can about your specific Boiga as you can, such as its locality if wild caught or temperatures it has been raised in by the previous owner if captive bred. This will help you decide on temperature gradients. So for instance, as B.cyanea are very widespread, I aim for a climate similar to the main central areas in which it is found – Thailand to China, which can be described as wet and tropical. Seasons such as a “monsoon” season can be imitated and may even help with breeding. I aim for temperature gradients from 32C in the hot area with an ambient of 25C and a night time drop of 2-3C. Humidity from 60-90%.
For current climate readings from around the world including temperatures and humidity, visit http://www.findlocalweather.com/ , this may help you alter you vivariums climate accordingly throughout the
year.

Whatever heating source you decide upon, make sure it is controlled with a thermostat and has a suitable guard - not one with large holes as these snakes are so slender they could squeeze themselves through the holes on some guards easily.

Substrates
Choose a substrate hich will assist in maintaining the humidity of the vivarium, such as coco fibre, rain forest bark or soil to plant in. Live plants will also assist with humidity and have the added bonus of making your vivarium look more natural. Use plenty of branches for your boiga to climb and drape itself upon. You may find that your Boiga chooses to spend much of its time under cover of some sort, provide it with plenty of foliage and places to hide such as pieces of cork bark for hides.





Feeding

Hatchlings
Hatchlings are notoriously difficult to feed in captivity, maybe due to the lack of suitable food items. Some may take defrosted newborn pinkie mice( live is generally unacceptable in the UK), whilst others( such as B.drapiezii or other very tiny hatchlings) will eventually require assist feeding on mousetails. Wait until the hatchling has had its first shed before feeding – for a higher success rate.The first rule is to be patient, feed in reduced lighting so that your snake feels comfortable and is at its natural hunting time and use tongs to offer food or your hands will get bitten. Warm the food item gently prior to feeding, get yourself comfortable as it can take a while to get a hatchling feeding especially. Offer the food item with tongs slowly, wiggling it slightly, maybe moving it gradually away to make it follow. You may need to split the prey items stomach, brain or nip its nose to entice a feeding response. Other suggestions include scenting with a frog, lizard, bird or commercially produced lizard scenter. When the snake takes the food make sure you remain still until the food is swallowed completely, as they are easily distracted and often spit the item out if disturbed. Then move away very slowly. Some young will take food if left within its environment, maybe inside its hide.

Wild caught specimens may also prove difficult to get feeding on commercially available food items, basically it’s a case of trial and error. Try the methods suggested above, but using long handled tongs or try leaving the food item hanging in branches overnight. Most will eventually feed using one of the methods described.
Assist feeding should be a last resort and many people find that after assist feeding a couple of times their Boiga will readily feed on its own.


For further reading on Boigas you can visit Boiga.co.uk

Written by Angi Nelson

[gotta love em]

great to no

[paraman]

Originally Posted by Angi

Boiga species captive husbandry

Housing
A secure, tall, arboreal vivarium constructed out of a material which will withstand high humidity is recommended for all species of Boiga apart from B.trigonata, which are reportedly terrestrial. A widely accepted rule of thumb for minimum vivarium measurements is to make the sum of the length plus width equal the adult length of the snake. Aim for a vivarium height that is equal to half of the snakes adult length. These measurements should allow your snake to exercise itself and will facilitate a good temperature gradient.
The vivarium will require good ventilation to avoid a build up of moulds and fungus as a result of high humidity.

Water and humidity
Some keepers spray with water once or twice daily, whilst others use misting systems and a few maintain humidity with waterbowls under the heating source and damp moss within hides. Personally, I prefer to give a heavy spray, in the evening aswell as providing a large waterbowl. There are many reports that Boigas do not drink from waterbowls, yet I have observe both B.cynodon and B.drapiezii drinking from fresh standing water. I believe that in the wild they are opportunistic drinkers, drinking when they can from whatever source they find, which is why I provide both standing water and mimic rain as best I can.


Temperatures
Find out as much as you can about your specific Boiga as you can, such as its locality if wild caught or temperatures it has been raised in by the previous owner if captive bred. This will help you decide on temperature gradients. So for instance, as B.cyanea are very widespread, I aim for a climate similar to the main central areas in which it is found – Thailand to China, which can be described as wet and tropical. Seasons such as a “monsoon” season can be imitated and may even help with breeding. I aim for temperature gradients from 32C in the hot area with an ambient of 25C and a night time drop of 2-3C. Humidity from 60-90%.
For current climate readings from around the world including temperatures and humidity, visit http://www.findlocalweather.com/ , this may help you alter you vivariums climate accordingly throughout the
year.

Whatever heating source you decide upon, make sure it is controlled with a thermostat and has a suitable guard - not one with large holes as these snakes are so slender they could squeeze themselves through the holes on some guards easily.

Substrates
Choose a substrate hich will assist in maintaining the humidity of the vivarium, such as coco fibre, rain forest bark or soil to plant in. Live plants will also assist with humidity and have the added bonus of making your vivarium look more natural. Use plenty of branches for your boiga to climb and drape itself upon. You may find that your Boiga chooses to spend much of its time under cover of some sort, provide it with plenty of foliage and places to hide such as pieces of cork bark for hides.





Feeding

Hatchlings
Hatchlings are notoriously difficult to feed in captivity, maybe due to the lack of suitable food items. Some may take defrosted newborn pinkie mice( live is generally unacceptable in the UK), whilst others( such as B.drapiezii or other very tiny hatchlings) will eventually require assist feeding on mousetails. Wait until the hatchling has had its first shed before feeding – for a higher success rate.The first rule is to be patient, feed in reduced lighting so that your snake feels comfortable and is at its natural hunting time and use tongs to offer food or your hands will get bitten. Warm the food item gently prior to feeding, get yourself comfortable as it can take a while to get a hatchling feeding especially. Offer the food item with tongs slowly, wiggling it slightly, maybe moving it gradually away to make it follow. You may need to split the prey items stomach, brain or nip its nose to entice a feeding response. Other suggestions include scenting with a frog, lizard, bird or commercially produced lizard scenter. When the snake takes the food make sure you remain still until the food is swallowed completely, as they are easily distracted and often spit the item out if disturbed. Then move away very slowly. Some young will take food if left within its environment, maybe inside its hide.

Wild caught specimens may also prove difficult to get feeding on commercially available food items, basically it’s a case of trial and error. Try the methods suggested above, but using long handled tongs or try leaving the food item hanging in branches overnight. Most will eventually feed using one of the methods described.
Assist feeding should be a last resort and many people find that after assist feeding a couple of times their Boiga will readily feed on its own.


For further reading on Boigas you can visit Boiga.co.uk

Written by Angi Nelson
image

Very usefull post thanks. Out of interest are there any plants that you could recommend?. I would like to try a few real ones, especially bromeliads if possible, the spellings a bit iffy but I think you will know what I mean.

[Angi]

To be honest you need fairly sturdy plants and some boiga will trash a planted viv, I would choose something like a large leafed fiscus or a
Sansevieria Laurentii for the bottom of the viv.
heres a link to listed plants that may be dangerous to your snake
Poisonous Plants: A List of Plants That are Dangerous for Reptiles and Amphibians

[paraman]

Originally Posted by Angi

To be honest you need fairly sturdy plants and some boiga will trash a planted viv, I would choose something like a large leafed fiscus or a
Sansevieria Laurentii for the bottom of the viv.
heres a link to listed plants that may be dangerous to your snake
Poisonous Plants: A List of Plants That are Dangerous for Reptiles and Amphibians

Thanks for that, I'll do a bit of botanical research.

[Saedcantas]

I've got a tall Yukka and trailing Philodendron in with my B. d. dendrophila

[paraman]

Originally Posted by Saedcantas

I've got a tall Yukka and trailing Philodendron in with my B. d. dendrophila

Thanks for that.
Ive got all my boiga vivs well planted but with plastic, they're due a clean out soon so I'll take the opportunity to replant with real and put in a few more uvb 2's at the same time. My green cat has come on in leaps and bounds since I put one in her viv so I intend to put one in all of them.

[Angi]

Originally Posted by paraman

Thanks for that.
Ive got all my boiga vivs well planted but with plastic, they're due a clean out soon so I'll take the opportunity to replant with real and put in a few more uvb 2's at the same time. My green cat has come on in leaps and bounds since I put one in her viv so I intend to put one in all of them.

Thats good to hear, this is the type of info we all need to be sharing with each other .
I have always been a strong believer in Uv lighting for select snakes ( not all, I know it can cause ill health in some)
Although I have always advocated the use of an arboreal viv for the majority of boiga, I do know someone who has successfuly kept and bred 12 subspecies in conticos, still not my choice despite his success I prefer a larger viv. But if you have a problem feeder then the more compact contico boxes may be useful temporarily .