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Old 16-04-2009, 01:48 PM
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Default Corn snake care sheet BASIC

Here is a care sheets i've just staryed today. I'm going to be giving it out when i start breeding, it's VERY BASIC as i feel i can go through anything else they may need to know when they pick their snakes up. ( How to set up heat mats, mat stats, etc)


Just wanted to see what everyone thought?

I know theres loads of spelling mistakes, i only have notepad so taking it on my memo stick to my auntys so i can word it all properlly





Congratulations on your new cornsnake. He will live up to 12 years. It not unusual for them live much longer than that though.
I've covered the basics in care but if you need to know anything else or have any question don't hesitate to contact me by phone or email.
You've just got your corn home and everyone want to handle him and show him off right? The best thing to do is leave him for a day
and let him settle into his new enclosure. Don't panic if he just settles into a hide and doesn't come out all night. This isn't unusual.



Housing

Hatchling corns get stressed if they're kept in too big a vivarium or tub. The best way to house a corn is in a Plastic tub or pet shop
bought plastic vivarium. I keep my hatchling and young corns in somthing called a really useful box, it's a plastic storage box found
in most shops, like staples, Argos and tesco. It's the same principle as the pet shop ones but at half the pirce.
As corns require no special lighting a simple heat mat will be all it needs to keep its body heat up. Place the heat mat at one end of
the tub (underneath the container not inside it) and keep the temps at around low end 75 – 80 degrees f high end low to mid 80F.
A thermostat should always be used to help you keep the temps at the required amount. These are available at most rep shops and are easy enough to set up.
You can use Kitchen roll, newspaper, aspen bedding or wood chips for your corns substrate. Its easier to keep a vivarium clean with
kitchen towels and newspaper but some people prefer their viv to look natural. I have also found that corns love to burrow in the aspen
and wood chips.
The vivairium can have as much decoration inside as your like but the basic requirements are
2 x Hides - one at the cool end and one at the warm end
1 x water bowl - placed in the cool end
As long as you have these your corn will be happy enough in his new home.




Feeding

It has become a resent craze to feed your snake as much as possible so he grows quicker. This can seriously damage your snake!
He can become overweight and it may lead to an early death. Over feeding also causes a snake to regurgtate its food and this
can result in many problems. I find hatchlings should have one pinky a week. Hatchlings take up to 4 days to digest their food and
once a week gives them time to fully digest their meal. Most keepers feed young snakes once a week. Leave a pinky around 4 hours to
defrost then you can simply offer to to your snake (by hand or with feeding tongs) or you can place it in the vivarium. Its depends on
how confident you are, first time owners usually like to just place the mouse in the vivarium and leave the snake to eat it.




Never feed on aspen or wood chip bedding! The substrate will stick to the mouse and if the snake eats it he will be unable to digest it.
This will result in inpactation which can result in death. If you use aspen or wood chips bedding simply move the corn into a tub with
newspaper or kitchen roll in while he eats. Once finished just pop him back in his vivarium.

It's best to leave him for around 2 days without handling too much. He can become stressed after he has eaten if you handle him and
handling make him regurgitate his meal. After around 3 - 4 days they normally poo but some snakes go longer so don't worry if its a
week or more later.



General Care

Cornsnakes on a whole are normaly very docile, healthy and make brilliant pets. There are a few things that you can do to help your new
petcstay healthy.

Always take care when handling your snake. A gentel but firm grip is the best way to describe how to hold him. Don't drop him from a height or leave youg children unsupervised with him. Abit of common scene is all it take



Water bowls should be changed everyday. Poo's should be clean when you see them do it. It's easier to do with a scoop of some sort.
The whole vivarium and all hides and branchs should have a good wash once a month. Your corn may poo on their fake plants and
things so its best to just make sure their all disinfected too. Hot soapy water and a good rinse is adaquate.



Snakes are always growing, a hatchling snake will shed it's skin as it grows. Hence the reason they shed alot more when their younger.
When a snake is due to shed its's skin its eyes will go cloudy. When you see this it's best to spray your snakes viv once a day with
a spray bottle. Most corns enjoy a good misting of the viv. The aim is to have a light spraying of water.
Once his eyes go clear he'll shed his skin. Normally you'll wake up and find his skin in one long piece but if it's in bits check him over and
make sure he has no bit left on him. The end of the tail is a common one. If theres some left on, spray him and gently rub it off. If it
still hasn't come off then try sitting with him in a small container of water and slowly try again.

As your snake grows he will require a bigger vivarium. A 3ft long vivarium is the minimum size you should keep an adult corn in.
Cornsnakes can reach 5ft so the vivarium should be minimum 18inch tall and deep. This will alow your cornsnake enough room.




Good luck with your new cornsnake. Heres to many happy years together

Last edited by stephenie191; 16-04-2009 at 02:04 PM..
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Old 16-04-2009, 01:49 PM
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If you think i've missed anything out that a FIRST TIME OWNER should know

let me know.

This took 1/2 hour so i'm still editing etc
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Old 16-04-2009, 01:57 PM
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you did not mention thermostats
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Old 16-04-2009, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tishba View Post
you did not mention thermostats
I know - i'm reading up on them know so i can add it in

But like i said, the technical stuff, like setting it up im going to leave out because i can just show them on the day LOL
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Old 18-05-2009, 12:36 PM
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Thanks for that, i've read up a lot of stuff but that's a real help since it's all in one place.
I'm looking forward to 2 male corns by August!!
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Old 18-05-2009, 09:00 PM
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just curious where you got the figure 12 from? i'd expect the vast majority of correctly cared-for corns to last to their late teens if not their 20s

........... says the owner of a 16 year old corn ;-)
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Old 19-05-2009, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenie191 View Post
i'm reading up on them know so i can add it in
You mean you dont use stats?! *waits for pitch forks*
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Old 19-05-2009, 09:31 AM
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I think that's a pretty good care sheet, well displayed, informative and pictures.
Well done
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Old 19-05-2009, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gingerpony View Post
just curious where you got the figure 12 from? i'd expect the vast majority of correctly cared-for corns to last to their late teens if not their 20s

........... says the owner of a 16 year old corn ;-)
Yeah I've hear of corns going well into their 20's in captivity and was under the impression from many people that the majority of corns last well into their teens.
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Old 19-05-2009, 10:44 PM
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ok i've had a proper chance to read it now, here's a few things that, on first reading, i'd change:

He could live to be 20+ years old
the best thing to do is leave him for a week and let him settle into his new enclosure. Don't panic if he just settles into a hide and doesn't come out all night.
after a week try his first feed, then allow him to digest his meal for 2 days before starting to handle him.
The best way to house a corn is in a plastic tub or pet shop
bought plastic faunarium. I keep my hatchling and young corns in a Really Useful Box. the heat mat should be under (in the case of a faun) one third to one half of the floor space and the hot end should be 28-30*C.
A thermostat should always be used to help you keep the temps at the required amount and prevent injury to your snake.
hatchlings should have one pinky every 5-7 days.
after feeding leave him for around 2 days without handling at all.
Water should be changed everyday.
When you see this it's best to spray your snakes viv once a day with
a spray bottle. NOOOOOO! Most corns enjoy a good misting of the viv. ???Once his eyes go clear he'll shed his skin within about a week.

you could also point them in the direction on www.thecornsnake.co.uk for decent advice.
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