Vietnamese Blue Beauty Rat Snake Care Sheet

[sazzjaydee]

Wasn't sure if there was one for this type of snake so thought I would put a one that i found on to the forum

Distribution: Blue Beauties are colubrids native to the Vietnam-Thailand-Burma areas of Southeast Asia, from heavy forests to cultivated fields and mountainous areas.

Size: These are some of the longest rat snakes at typical lengths of 7 to 8 feet.

Lifespan: Blue Beauties can live anywhere from 15 to 30 years.

Description: These are stunning snakes, long and slender with a blue-grey base color offset with cream and darker blue markings in 4 different patterns that change as you move down the body. Black orbital stripes accentuate the eyes while the chin and underside remain a creamy white to yellow. Just after the head is a length of solid blue-grey before it changes to a diamond/ladder pattern of darker blue and cream along the back. Further down the pattern stretches into more vertical cream stripes which change yet again just after the vent into much darker smooth horizontal cream stripes along a much darker blue background.

The tail stripe is the reason for their other name, the "Stripe-tailed Rat Snake". This name is also used for Taiwan Beauty Snakes, Ridley's Stripe-Tailed and Striped Trinket Snakes, fellow members of E. taeniura with similar markings.

Hatchlings are much more olive green in color and grow bluer as they get older.

Behavior: Blue Beauties have a reputation for being nervous snakes, but with regular handling they can be very docile and charming pets. They're also diurnal (opposite of nocturnal) and largely active during the day, which is a nice change of pace from more rarely seen nocturnal snakes.

Difficulty Rating:2. VBBs are very long and active snakes. I recommend having some experience with a corn or a king or similar smaller colubrid.

Enclosure: The minimum enclosure size for an adult Blue Beauty is a 55L, but your snake will appreciate as much room to explore as you can give it so long as there are places to hide, climb, and lounge. A young snake or juvenile will need more hides for larger enclosures to reduce stress, but the smallest you should use for a hatchling should be a 20L. Critter Cages are great starter habitats for hatchlings, nice secure lids at low prices. You WILL need a very secure lid or door! These are talented escape artists, and if you're using an aquarium you will need clips to keep the lid securely in place. Only one snake per enclosure!

Substrate: Carefresh Ultra for reptiles, but there are several good substrates out there for you to choose from. Newspaper and the like is nice and easy to clean but not as aesthetic and Beauties love to burrow. Coconut husk based substrates, Aspen, or Carefresh are decorative substrates that are ideal for Blue Beauties. Cedar is deadly to reptiles, do not use Cedar bedding! Gravel, sand, mulch, and corn cob are not recommended for these snakes.

Temps: The ideal temperatures for Blue Beauties are 75-85 degrees. I've gotten a lot of mixed reviews on whether or not they need a temperature gradient. I am looking into it. Thus far it seems they're comfortable and digesting just fine so long as the room temp fluctuates between 70 and 85, but no higher or lower.

Humidity/Water: I haven't found anything on the exact humidity requirements for Blue Beauties, however what's worked for me is using a water dish that is large enough for the snake to soak but not large enough for them to submerge their whole length at once. For my adults I use ceramic dog dishes. My female especially loves to soak, but quickly gets restless and never soaks long enough for us to have any concerns. So far I haven't had any shedding problems. Do not use distilled or chlorinated water! Chlorine is dangerous to reptiles, and the distillation process removes all of the natural nutrients from water that animals need.

Accessories: VBBs love to bask in high places such as on top of their hides or on ledges and cruise along branches over and under… The more you give them to adventure on, the more enjoyable watching them will be. Of course, this also means more items for you to clean. So basically, whatever works for you. Like all snakes, they do need at least one hide preferably elongated like a cut-off plastic window-box from Lowes, for example. You can saw off the end and sand down the edges. These snakes seem to have some trouble with perfectly spherical hides and do better with something oblong.

Feeding: Hatchlings and juveniles - 1 or 2 pink/ fuzzy mice to 1 or 2 pink/fuzzy rats every 7 days; Adults - 1 or 2 medium rats or 2 small rats every 7 days. I feed mine frozen/thawed. Like most snakes, judge based off the roundest part of the body. Your Beauty will typically sleep off his or her dinner for a day or two after. Please don't handle your snake for about 48 hours after feeding time to avoid risk of regurgitation.

Choosing to feed in a separate container or in the enclosure is up to you. I've found that it depends on the snake. Some are more comfortable eating in the enclosure and being moved only stresses them, and others don't care what you do so long as there is a rat in front of them. My girl gets easily distracted in her own enclosure and will often miss the second prey item, and does better eating in a separate tub. It all depends on what works best for you and your pet.

Handling: Beauties need regular handling to stay tame, and like many colubrids are speedy active curious snakes! Mine tend to anchor themselves with their tail around my arm or wrist then endeavor to explore with the rest of their bodies. It's important to keep an eye on them, because they will happily wander off to points unknown. Otherwise, like most snakes, keep them gently but firmly supported. I find it useful when returning a snake to their enclosure to point their head into the hide and ease them in that way. It helps prevent one end heading out just as you're getting the other end back in.

Acclimation: New arrivals need at least a week or sometimes even two of just settling in, getting used to the new enclosure and routine, before they get handled. Just to get them off to a good start.

Any other info is welcome

[catchy1986]

i need one of these snakes, do you know how much they cost(for a baby)

[sazzjaydee]

Originally Posted by catchy1986

i need one of these snakes, do you know how much they cost(for a baby)

I got mine for £75 but don't know if this is the normal price for them. Really nice snakes very snappy at first but after about 10 handlings at about 1 our each they are really nice

[catchy1986]

cool thanks

[sazzjaydee]

Originally Posted by catchy1986

cool thanks

Hope you like it if you get one