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I've set up with a ceramic but just in case the stat fails this may be an idea. Test run your set up and decide on a wattage of bulb so that if it remained on full it would still leave the cold end of your viv at a survivable temp (i.e. slightly lower than the basking spot). This ensures that your bulb/heater has all the capacity you need to maintain normal temperatures but even in the event of the stat failing in the on position your reptile can still move down a temp gradient. The digital thermometers with hi/lo alarms are useful too.
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A habistat in place now, a little happier, now comes the tweaking part to get things just right. I have burried the probe under the substrate on the mat, this sounds about right for my wee hoggie?
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that is also several hours wen ur stat could break aswell, and there is as much chance of ur stat failing as there is of a mat soaring.
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A heat mat in the UK (I haven't used US heat mats) is running normally and correctly when it reaches temperatures in excess of 100 degrees fahrenheit... it's not physically breaking down, it's just running at normal operating temperature. So the thermostat is necessary to limit that normal operating temperature to one that's safe for the reptile that's lying on or above it. |
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