Basic yemen chameleon caresheet

lee1980 · #1 (**permalink**) 25-03-2008, 12:38 AM

Just browsing through the internet and found this, have noticed that there is little information on yemen chameleons, i thought i would put this on here as some basic information as to anyone who is intrested in a yemen like me. im gonna keep looking on the internet and when i find something more in depth i will post it

cheers, lee

Yemen Chameleon - Chameleo calyptratus
Description-A large active chameleon from arid regions of Yemen, Males have a very high crest, with fantastic colours. Females are slightly smaller and are normally shades of green (except during breeding colours or when gravid) Total size is up to 24" but half of this is tail. They can live up to 8 years in captivity.
Housing-Juvenile Yemen chameleons can be housed together until about 3" snout to vent length, then it is best to separate them. Yemen chameleons can grown extremely fast if given the right conditions (adults in 4 months). A good sized cage for an adult would be a screen mesh vivarium, 2ft x 2ft x 2ft. If using a conventional wooden vivarium, I would strongly recommend a minimum size of 3ft x 2ft x 3ft (W x D x H). Newspaper is the best substrate as this will reduce risks of substrate accidentally ingested. You can use fine sand or dry fine bark chips but feeding should be carried out by offering food in a clean tub (see below). Other decor to include is a variety of branches of different diameters, do not use doweling as used for birds and this doesn't give the lizards feet any form of exercise. Plastic plant can be added and real plants are also suitable, the best to use are Fiscus types, these will also be eaten by your chameleon.

Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus)
By Devin Edmonds
Introduction: During the last fifteen years true chameleons have become increasingly more common in the pet trade. Veiled chameleons were once a rare species to have in a reptile collection and were considered hard to keep. Advances in reptile husbandry and the increase in demand for exotic reptiles have now made veiled chameleons the most common captive-bred chameleon offered for sale.
Veiled chameleons are native to humid mountain sides and valleys in Yemen and southern Saudi Arabia. Males can grow to 20 inches (50.8 cm) in length while females mature to a smaller size of 12 to 14 inches (30.5 to 35.5 cm). Adult male veiled chameleons will have a large casque on the top of their head that can reach 3 inches (7.6 cm) in height. Their color is variable, but usually consists of a green or turquoise body with yellow, orange, blue, tan, brown, or black blotches and stripes. Like all true chameleons, veiled chameleons will change color depending on their mood and surrounding environment. An angry or scared veiled chameleon can turn a dark brown or black color with yellow and green blotches, while one that is relaxed will stay a solid light green with occasional blue, tan, or yellow spots and stripes. Male veiled chameleons generally live between five and eight years in captivity, while females have a shorter lifespan and often only live to two or three years.
Veiled chameleons are sensitive animals and are not a pet that tolerates handling well. Although there are a small number of veiled chameleons which don't seem to mind human interaction, most will hiss and gape their mouths when a human hand is near. Most veiled chameleons will even bite when provoked. Handling a chameleon is stressful for the lizard and should only be done when they need to be moved out of their cage for cleaning, or if they need to be taken somewhere such as the vet. In general, they are best left as display animals rather than pets to interact with.
Never purchase a chameleon that is under three months in age. These small hatchlings and juveniles are very cute but require extra attention and are more sensitive to temperature and humidity than adults. They also require very small food items such as fruit flies and hatchling crickets, which many people aren't able to provide. A responsible reptile dealer, breeder, or pet store will never sell hatchling chameleons.
Cage: The most common mistake made when keeping a veiled chameleon is housing it in an inappropriate cage. Chameleons need very spacious enclosures. The more room that can be provided the better off the veiled chameleon will be. A large adult male veiled chameleon will need a cage that measures 36 inches long by 36 inches wide by 48 inches tall (91.5 cm by 91.5 cm by 121.9 cm) with more room being even better. Females and young males can be kept in smaller cages.
If keeping more than one chameleon, it is very important to house both animals in separate enclosures. Chameleons are extremely territorial and will stress easily when kept with other mature chameleons, most often leading to the death of the weaker one. They do not enjoy the company of other chameleons, and instead view others as a threat to their territory rather than a friend. When keeping two or more chameleons, it is also important that they are not allowed to see each other. Draping a towel or tarp over the sides of cages that face each other can work very well. Breeders that produce veiled chameleons house their animals separate except for a few hours when the female is introduced to the males cage. After they are done mating the female is removed and placed back in her own separate cage.
Ventilation is extremely important for veiled chameleons. At least two sides and the top of the cage should be screen to allow proper air flow and good ventilation. Large screen cages are best, although a combination cage where two sides are glass or wood and two sides are screen can work equally well. I built a cage out of aluminum window screens and wood, pictures can be viewed at Step By Step Chameleon Cage. Occasionally chameleons may get their nails caught in the fine aluminum screening pictured in the previous link, so often a better option is to use large quarter or half inch steel fencing or screen. Young chameleons can usually be kept in aquariums without problems, although small screen enclosures can be used as a better alternative. A standard 20 gallon glass aquarium that measures 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 16 inches high (61 cm by 30 cm by 40.6 cm) will be able to house a juvenile veiled chameleon until it has a body length of roughly 4 inches (10 cm).
It is best to use a very simple substrate such as paper towels, newspaper, or reptile cage carpeting. If the bottom of the cage is solid and easy to clean, a substrate might not even be necessary. Do not use gravel, fir bark, dried moss, or sand because these substrates can be swallowed and cause serious health problems. I have now spoken to multiple people who lost their veiled chameleons because they were kept on fir bark (Repti-bark, Forest Bark, etc.) because the chameleon accidentally ingested it while attempting to catch a cricket. Although fir bark can be used as a substrate for many other types of reptiles, it should be avoided when keeping chameleons.
Decor for the cage should consist of many different sized perches, branches, and vines. Perches and vines should placed vertically as well as horizontally and at different sloping angles. Wooden dowels can be positioned horizontally below basking sites, and small plastic vines can be wrapped around them. Live and fake plants should be used in the cage to provide cover and to provide places for the chameleon to lap up water droplets. When using live plants make sure that they are safe for reptiles. Pothos work very well and can be hung from the top of the cage or placed on the bottom in pots. It is recommended to thoroughly wash off all live plants and then grow them outside of the cage for a few weeks to remove any potentially harmful chemicals such as leaf shiners or pesticides.

Lighting: Lighting plays an important role in the health of veiled chameleons and all diurnal reptiles in general. All diurnal reptiles require UVB rays in order to process calcium in their diet. At least one fluorescent light bulb that provides high levels of UVB radiation should run the length of cage. Zoo-med's Repti-sun 5.0 and Exo-terra's Repti-glo 8.0 are two common brands of UVB producing light bulbs. Glass will filter out nearly all UVB rays so place the bulb over a screen section of the cage. UVB producing bulbs need to be changed every five to seven months because the amount of UVB radiation that they produce slowly dies off over time. To compliment this bulb I recommend using an additional 5000K fluorescent tube that has a high CRI rating. This will be beneficial for any plants in the cage and will make everything look more attractive.
An incandescent light bulb or two of the appropriate wattage should also be placed on the top or sides of the cage to provide basking sites. Having different wattage light bulbs to provide multiple basking sites with different temperatures works very well. Infra-red light bulbs can be used to heat the cage at night, although usually this isn’t required.
Temperature and Humidity: Like all reptiles and amphibians, veiled chameleons are ectotherms and rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. The ambient temperature in the cage should stay between 75F and 85F (24C and 29.5C) during the day with a slight drop in temperature at night. A basking site or two should also be provided where the temperature reaches 90F to 105F (32C to 40.5C). Incandescent light bulbs or ceramic heat emitters should be used to heat the cage rather than heat pads or heat rocks which chameleons won’t use.
During warmer parts of the year veiled chameleons can be kept outside in many climates. A healthy adult veiled chameleon can withstand temperatures as low 45F (7.2C) during the night as long as it warms up again during the day. In situations where the temperature drops this low it's a good idea to heat the cage with an infra-red reptile light bulb at night to keep an area in the cage that doesn't fall below 60F (15.5C).
Veiled chameleons will tolerate dryer conditions than many of the other species of chameleon commonly found for sale. The entire cage should be sprayed with lukewarm water at least once a day to temporarily increase the humidity level. Potted plants will help raise the humidity in some areas as well.
Water: Chameleons rarely drink from a water bowl. They are similar to many species of geckos in that they prefer to lap drops of water off of leaves and branches rather than drink from standing containers of water. During daily cage mistings large drops of water can be sprayed into the air above the chameleon so that they fall onto its head. Most veiled chameleons will eagerly drink water that drips down their face. This should be done at least once a day, preferably two or three times a day. Juveniles can dehydrate quickly and should be provided with opportunities to drink two or three times a day at a minimum.
In addition to spraying the cage, a drip system can be setup. This can be as simple as a bucket with a tiny hole in the bottom that is positioned over the top of the cage. Leave a cup for the water to collect in or place the bucket over a potted plant so that the dripping water doesn’t flood the cage. Some veiled chameleons will also learn to drink from moving water features such as waterfalls or bubbling bowls. A waterfall inside of the cage will can help raise the humidity in a small area as well.
Food: Most veiled chameleons are not picky eaters and will accept a wide variety of food items. Crickets should make up the majority of their diet. Adults should be fed five to fifteen large crickets once a day or every other day, while juveniles should be fed lower numbers of smaller sized crickets twice a day. Super worms, wax worms, earth worms, silkworms moths, house flies, horn worms, cockroaches, and small flying beetles can all be offered to veiled chameleons in place of crickets once a week or so. Veiled chameleons are also one of the few chameleons that will accept plants occasionally. Romaine lettuce, mustard greens, collard greens, and safe flowering plants can all be hung from places in the cage for the chameleon to eat. Mine preferred to just munch on the pothos that were growing at the bottom of the cage and generally ignored other greens that were offered. Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of feeding. There are many different brands of reptile food supplements available and all have different qualities. Miner-all and Rep-cal are two trustworthy brands to use. It’s important that the calcium supplement contains vitamin D3 and either has a 2:1 calcium to phosphorus ratio, or is phosphorus free. Feeders that are being fed to juvenile chameleons should be dusted with a calcium supplement once every or every other day. Vitamin supplements should be used weekly for juveniles. Adult chameleons should have their feeders coated in both supplements once or twice a week.

brittone05 · #2 (**permalink**) 25-03-2008, 11:12 AM

Have a look on....

Ukchameleons.co.uk

Welcome to ADCHAM

Chameleons! Online E-Zine

They are 3 of the best possible places to research chameleon care

SimonB · #3 (**permalink**) 25-03-2008, 04:05 PM

or Chameleon Forums

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode