Quote:
Originally Posted by medusa0373
My set up is kind of like that I think only with the CHE instead of a bulb. I have not had any problems so far and I was advised to set it up that way; I just don't understand how you can regulate the hot end by putting the probe in the cool end of the viv... 
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Once you have the cool end regulated and leave the cage to stabilise itself, you then know how much energy you have going into the cage. It's then the distance between the basking bulb and the basking spot that will determine the basking temperature. The point is that the hot end isn't "regulated". You set it up with the energy available, which is adjusted according to the temperature of the cool end. If you are using the correct wattage bulb (this wouldn't apply to CHEs), there should be almost no dimming, so it's in effect using an unstat'ed bulb, but with that safety feature in place should it ever be needed. This would only apply to animals where the basking spot is much higher than the cool end "safe" temperature - as far as I'm aware, with a BRB, you need an ambient air temperature in the warm end, not a basking spot as such. As the BRB won't sit on a rock and bask, this method doesn't really work for them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Issa
Very nicely written although
You could probably do the same trick (the moving basking spot idea) a lot cheaper with 1 stat, a few timers and a multi plug thingie if you were a bit creative about how you set it up.
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I see where you're coming from - you could possibly set it up with:
socket -> stat -> 3x timers (with 1 bulb per timer)
That would give you a crude (but I imagine effective) way of doing it. You wouldn't be able to dim basking spots though for a gradual transition - it would just be on / off - although probably much more affordable to set up...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ian14
Thermostats usually have a pretty good guide with them as to where the probe should go. Mt vivs are heated using bulbs, which are fitted to the roof of the viv at one end, with the probe to one side, ie of the fitting is to the left of the tank, the probe is placed to the left of the bulb. This allows for a warm end, with a slightly higher temperature for basking, then a gradient to the right providing cooler areas.
I have not had any problems using this method.
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Ian, I'm sure many people have not yet had a problem with your method. However some have. I have had emails from people and read on forums about cases where the vivarium has overheated, and caused serious problems (and even death in a couple of cases) because the cool end was not regulated. I don't remember a specific case on this forum, but have only been around here for 10 months or so. As explained in my original post, if you allow the cool end to get to the same temperature as the basking end, it won't allow a hot dragon to cool down quickly if it needs to. It would break my heart if someone on this forum put up a post about their dragon having gotten overheated this summer because they didn't ensure that there would be a cool end available for it at all times. That's why I wrote this - about the "safe" (but possibly slightly more involved to set up) way of using thermostats.