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Hey, I'm Lisa and I just joined yesterday. I'm desperate to get my first leopard gecko soon and I've done plenty research but I can't seem to find definite answers to a few things, can anyone tell me:
1. How long they usually live? 2. What the vet's bills are like? 3. Is it better to buy an adult or a baby and do the prices change depending on age? Thanks guys |
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Hi,
Welcome to the forums. ![]() Leos usually live for about 20 years. I dont know about vets as ive never had to use them. Its usually best to buy a baby as you can tame them easier and get to know them better. Prices usually depend on what morph you want.
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3.2.0 Bearded Dragons 2.2.3 Leopard Geckos 1.1.0 Budwinged Mantids 1.1.0 Chinese Mantids 1.4.0 Border Terriers julie2bb@hotmail.co.uk Add me as a friend on msn ![]() ![]()
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If you buy a male, you could expect to have him twenty or thirty years; females, because they produce eggs, will have shorter lifespans because laying eggs is hard work (and they'll do it even if they aren't bred).
Vet bills can be anything from a quick checkup (phone your local vets and find out what a consultation costs - and MAKE SURE you have a local exotics vet because cat and dog vets might not even look at your gecko if there's a problem) to hundreds of pounds for surgery if you're very unlucky or don't keep your gecko in the right conditions. Having a male will reduce the "big risk" of an egg-bound gecko, since they don't get egg-bound. I wouldn't recommend a very young baby if you've never had a lizard before - they're fragile, jumpy and prone to dropping their tails as little'uns. I would recommend a youngster, grown on a bit (three or four months old at least, and four to six inches nose to tailtip) who will have grown out of some of the normal baby nervousness. Adults, if they've been well handled, make fantastic pets - you don't need to "bond" them to you because a well-handled adult will be confident around people in general. An adult who hasn't been handled much will probably be jumpy and may bite.
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- Ssthisto ![]() ![]() Lizards: 2.2 E. macularius, 1.2 H. caudicinctus, 1.0 R. ciliatus, 0.2.1 A. fragilis, 1.1 T. merianae, 1.0 V. niloticus ittibittius Colubrids: 3.5.15 P. guttattus, 1.0 P. guttatus X E. climacophora, 1.1 P. o. rossalini, 1.0 P. o. lindheimeri, 0.1 E. anomala, 0.1 C. radiatus 1.2 Lamprophis spp, 1.0 L. g. nigritus, 0.1 L. g. californiae, 1.0 H. n. nasicus Boids: 1.1 E. c. maurus, 0.1 E. conicus, 4.1.6 P. regius, 1.1 A. maculosa We HAD a three-bedroom house... Current lodgers: 1.0 E. c. maurus, 1.1 E. c. loveridgei |
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Hi Lisa, Don't know much about Leopard Geckos but do about vets fees. I'd suggest either get your Gecko(s) insured through a company that specialises in reptiles or set up an account into which you can put a regular amount away for when disaster strikes or if you're lucky at the end of the day you'll have a nice little nest egg to buy more reps
Vets fees can be very expensive and even more so for exotics. First on your list of to do's though, find a good exotics vet before you need them! |
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Quote:
I'd advise putting money aside - or, if you can, set aside a credit card for reptile care. THEY won't "not pay" for a problem.
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- Ssthisto ![]() ![]() Lizards: 2.2 E. macularius, 1.2 H. caudicinctus, 1.0 R. ciliatus, 0.2.1 A. fragilis, 1.1 T. merianae, 1.0 V. niloticus ittibittius Colubrids: 3.5.15 P. guttattus, 1.0 P. guttatus X E. climacophora, 1.1 P. o. rossalini, 1.0 P. o. lindheimeri, 0.1 E. anomala, 0.1 C. radiatus 1.2 Lamprophis spp, 1.0 L. g. nigritus, 0.1 L. g. californiae, 1.0 H. n. nasicus Boids: 1.1 E. c. maurus, 0.1 E. conicus, 4.1.6 P. regius, 1.1 A. maculosa We HAD a three-bedroom house... Current lodgers: 1.0 E. c. maurus, 1.1 E. c. loveridgei |
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