how to setup thermostat probe - Page 2

HadesDragons · #11 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joker

hi again just thought i would tell you i am going to use a ceramic lamp so it won't stress the bearded dragon out,that should work ok with a on/off stat shouldn't it ?

People usually recommend Pulse Stats for ceramics...

Personally I would have said that a ceramic would stress out a beardie more than using a lightbulb. Ceramics tend to cause cages to be pretty dim (the only light comes from the UV tube) - remember beardies come from an environment where you need sunglasses to go outdoors during the summer!

All heating needs to be turned off at night for a beardie to allow the temperature to drop so the beardie's metabolic rate can also drop. For something like a forest-dwelling gecko that has fairly constant day / night temperatures and likes a somewhat dim cage, ceramics are perfect. For a diurnal animal that likes bright light and needs a large nighttime temperature drop, I wouldn't say ceramics are particularly suitable, and are likely to cause stress to the animal...

Hardwicki · #12 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HadesDragons

People usually recommend Pulse Stats for ceramics...

Personally I would have said that a ceramic would stress out a beardie more than using a lightbulb. Ceramics tend to cause cages to be pretty dim (the only light comes from the UV tube) - remember beardies come from an environment where you need sunglasses to go outdoors during the summer!

All heating needs to be turned off at night for a beardie to allow the temperature to drop so the beardie's metabolic rate can also drop. For something like a forest-dwelling gecko that has fairly constant day / night temperatures and likes a somewhat dim cage, ceramics are perfect. For a diurnal animal that likes bright light and needs a large nighttime temperature drop, I wouldn't say ceramics are particularly suitable, and are likely to cause stress to the animal...

I'd say they would be ok surely as long as there is a substantial UV bulb in there to provide daylight as reptile allegedly cannot see red light from heat bulbs anyway.

HadesDragons · #13 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hardwicki

I'd say they would be ok surely as long as there is a substantial UV bulb in there to provide daylight as reptile allegedly cannot see red light from heat bulbs anyway.

I'm talking about spot lights, not red heating bulbs. Beardies can see red as well; I don't know if they are aware of it as they are of regular lights, but they can certainly see it...

There's a massive difference between a single UV tube and the sun; I use extra non-heat lights in my cages as well as the UV and heating bulbs, and it still doesn't come close to being as bright as a desert is.

For a desert-living animal such as a beardie, you want to get the cage as bright as possible to stimulate natural behaviour and help them to set internal day / night cycles within their bodies. A UV tube plus a spotlight will make it much brighter than just a UV tube, which is why I'd recommend using spot lights rather than ceramics for beardies.

Hardwicki · #14 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HadesDragons

I'm talking about spot lights, not red heating bulbs. Beardies can see red as well; I don't know if they are aware of it as they are of regular lights, but they can certainly see it...

There's a massive difference between a single UV tube and the sun; I use extra non-heat lights in my cages as well as the UV and heating bulbs, and it still doesn't come close to being as bright as a desert is.

For a desert-living animal such as a beardie, you want to get the cage as bright as possible to stimulate natural behaviour and help them to set internal day / night cycles within their bodies. A UV tube plus a spotlight will make it much brighter than just a UV tube, which is why I'd recommend using spot lights rather than ceramics for beardies.

Learn something new every day. There you go Joker, Hades seems to know his beardies. Which are best the blue daylight spots or just your regular white ones?

HadesDragons · #15 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hardwicki

Learn something new every day. There you go Joker, Hades seems to know his beardies. Which are best the blue daylight spots or just your regular white ones?

I personally would stick with the white ones - the sun's not blue, and the closer you can get to daylight the better!

bmth girl · #16 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 07:05 PM

Think I have mine sorted now , the probe is half way along the middle of the viv and the temps seem ok...just worried that if the hot end got too hot on the basking spot they would not have the sense to move away and burn themselves...as I have read never to use heat rocks as they are dangerous for them as thay get burns to the skin?....(still a little confused ...its the same old thing " too many cooks......"

jaf2212 · #17 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 07:19 PM

I would advise against the ceramics, I've just removed mine after a week as my beardie hasn't been the same without the bright light

HadesDragons · #18 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmth girl

Think I have mine sorted now , the probe is half way along the middle of the viv and the temps seem ok...just worried that if the hot end got too hot on the basking spot they would not have the sense to move away and burn themselves...as I have read never to use heat rocks as they are dangerous for them as thay get burns to the skin?....(still a little confused ...its the same old thing " too many cooks......"

Hot rocks can burn the bellies of dragons, but because you would also have heat coming from above, it would quickly realise that it was too hot, regardless of how (in)sensitive its belly is.

joker · #19 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 10:48 PM

hey thanks for the advise everyone. i will see if i can go and swap it tomoz.The idiots at the pet store where i bought it from said it would be fine show's how much they know!i will tell them tomoz. i have got a red heat glow bulb i bought before i got this ceramic one will that do its 50w do i need to get a more powerfull one for a 3ft fish tank or should i go buy a spot light one and if so should i get the normal colour or the blue one (so many things to think about lol )i will still use this on/off thermostat till i can get the money togeather for a dimming or a pulse one,sorry about all the question but i just want to make sure i get everything sorted before i get the little chap

zukomonitor · #20 (**permalink**) 15-05-2008, 11:31 PM

Hi there,

HADES is definitely the man in the know when it comes to BD's

from personal experience the brighter the better, use a clear/white spotlight - you will be looking at a 60w for a 3ft tank

the probe needs to be placed in the cool end with a dimming thermostat.

the whole point is to create a thermal gradient, if you achieve the cool end temps then you know your beardie can cool off if needs be. basking temps only become a problem in even larger tanks that are for monitors etc.

get your cool end temps right and you are on to a winner, obviously ventilation has a part in this but you get my drift.

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