have one spiny tailed monitor, Varanus acanthurus, for sale he is about 18 inches long and very tame, eating very well and very healthy. 300.00 ono. would consider swaps for Royal morphs

Also i have a group of four barred tiger salamanders about 5-6 inches long, nice and chunky, eating like pigs with tank and set up 120.00

2004 Cherry Head Red Foot tortoises, absolutely georgeous markings, weighing about 95 grammes about 3 inches shell lengh, 125.00 each, very easy to keep geogeous looking South American species
I am in Brighton but can deliver london and south or meet for fuel cost
Call me on 07801 128701 or 01273 701708, leave a message if i am out and ill get back to you

I will swapthe above salamanders and tortoises for quantities of spiderlings

you will be very,very,very lucky if can swap a spiney tail for any royal morph

Can i just say that cherry headed tortoises are not easy to keep, They need humidity, uvb, a heat spot and a cool spot.
They 70%green and 30% fruit and limestone flour sprinkled on their food every day and viamins every other- get this wrong and you can be slowly killing them or there shells can go deformed
People say they are dwarf but that can grow as big as adult red foods up to 14 inches. and where will you house something that big?
I am not trying to put people off but it just drives me mad when pleople say theya re easy to keep as they arnt. As long as you do your homework on them and can house them (vivariums kill tortoises- tortoise tables are the best) they are a nice pet.
All the info above is the tip of the ice burg

Oh can i ask are they cb? have you got pictures of their parents?

why do vivs kill torts??

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1.0 common boas
2.0 66% poss double het sunglow boas
1.0 cats

bigp it give them all sorts of probs, shell domming, respitary probs etc a tortoise needs heat not humidity, some will need vivs it just depends which type they are most that are sold in rep shops like horsfields and hermans do not thrive in viv and should be in a open type enclosure but ive never been in a shop that does'nt recommend a viv mabey you could change this? ::this is mine built out of a book shelf

when this photo was taken i was using a temporary heat source but have since changed it to a zoomed uva/uvb bulb on a clamp stand..so he has his hot spot plus uva and his cool end and the whole thing has normal air circulation...

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http://www.myspace.com/nickysden
http://www.bebo.com/NickyF19

Well put, vivariums dont let air circulate. Pet shops always sell vivariums with tortoises just to make money, I have a tortoise table made out of an ikea tub that cost me £9 for my cherrys

nice one nicky, i didnt even know you kept torts lol.
how many ya got babes?

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corns for sale
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/snake...rthampton.html

just the one, and hes busy sleeping at the mo, so i'll see him in a few months lol....

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http://www.myspace.com/nickysden
http://www.bebo.com/NickyF19

CANT SEE ANTHING DIFFICAULT HERE!!!!!!


Red-Footed Tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria)


General Care
RANGE
Red-Footed Tortoises are inhabitants of grassland savannahs and forests in South America. They can tolerate fairly high humidity and temperatures ranging from the mid 80's to low 70's with the occasional drop down into the 50's.
Access to fresh water should be provided at all times, Red-Foots do drink a lot of water and respond well to daily showers and weekly soaks.
DIET
The forest habitat provides the Red-Foot with an abundance of fallen fruits, flowers and leaves. Fruits recommended in captivity are wild plum, papaya, mango, prickly pear and a variety of others. Avoid banana, though. Banana is high in Potassium and can be addictive and harmful to your tortoise.
They will also eat wild mushrooms, grasses, succulents and carrion, and are attracted to red and yellow flowers such as hibiscus and dandelion flowers.
The Red-Footed Tortoise has excellent color vision.
They need dark leafy greens such as dandelions, turnip greens, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, collard and beet greens.
Toppings such as alfalfa hay, timothy grass, ryegrass and oats are good for fiber in the Red Foot's diet.
Their diet should be supplemented with protein such as crickets, worms, cooked egg and low calorie cat food or dog food and occasional portions of commercial tortoise foods.
These should only be as supplements and not with every feeding.
Most sources I have found stress the importance of limiting the intake of meats to about once every two to four weeks.
Wash grocery store greens and fruits in a mild dish soap to remove pesticide residues unless known to be organically grown.
Mader's 'Reptile Medicine and Surgery' (1996), recommends 75% vegetables and greens, 20% fruit, and 5% high-protein-content foods.
As with any turtle or tortoise variety is key.
Most sources I have found recommend feeding every other day.
Feed your Red-Foot a mix of chopped greens such as romaine lettuce, dandelion, mustard and collard greens sprinkled with fibrous toppings such as alfalfa hay, timothy grass and oats.
On every second to third feeding, along with the chopped greens and grasses add some chopped papaya, mango, prickly pair or similar fruits.
Once every fourteen to thirty days, along with the chopped greens and grasses, add small portions of protein such as chopped worms, crickets, chopped cooked egg or possibly even a commercial tortoise food.
The greens, grasses and fruits mentioned above are just examples of a wide variety of foods that your Red-Foot can and will eat. You can substitute comparable foods in most cases.
Some suggestions are mushrooms, sow thistle, summer squash, green beans, yams, hibiscus and dandelion flowers and leaves, plumbs, grapes and cantaloupe and berries such as blackberries, strawberries and mulberries.
Thanks to my new friends at Beardie Dragon (see below for their link) I found the following information: Dehydration is a very serious hazard to any tortoise consuming higher protein and purine content foods (mushrooms, for example). So, although some foods high in purine, such as mushrooms, are fine for supplementation be careful not to over feed them to your tortoise.
SUPPLEMENTS
Also sprinkle the food every seven to ten days with Reptical Calcium supplement.Use Reptical without vitamin d3 for outdoor specimens and Reptical with vitamin d3 for indoor specimens.
Cuttle bone and/or eggshells provide excellent sources of calcium, also.
OUTDOOR HOUSING
When building an enclosure for a Red Foot Tortoise you need to provide plenty or room for your tortoise to explore.
For an adult I would recommend 10 to 12 feet square or larger.
The larger the better.
Provide grazing plants such as dandelion, clover, chicory and chickweed and common grasses such as monkey grass, fescue or Bermuda grass.
Your tortoise will need areas of shade and sunlight and a place to burrow or hide.
Plant bushes or shrubs that can provide shade and grazing such as Hibiscus and Yucca and maybe even something like Wandering Jew for cover.
Provide a partially buried hide box and an area of loose dirt and leaf mulch in one corner. The plants, hide box and mulch area will provide your Red-Foot with several areas of retreat.
A shallow pan for water is needed. Dig a depression or hole to match the water pan's size and place the pan so that the top is at ground level.This provides easy access but make sure your tortoise can easily exit the water dish at will.
Add a few rocks and maybe a small fallen branch or two to break up the scenery. Make sure branches are not so big that the tortoise can fall off and land on its back.
It is also recommended to hose down the entire enclosure daily and soak your tortoise at least once a week. This simulated rainfall can help stimulate your Tortoise's appetite and increase it's activity levels.
There are different substrates available for indoor and outdoor enclosures but for my outdoor enclosure I opt for the ground itself, planted as specified above
INDOOR HOUSING
With indoor housing as well as outdoor housing you want to give your tortoise as much room as possible.
The bigger the better.
The age and size of your tortoise will help determine the size of its environment.
Make sure the habitat is large enough to establish at least some type of temperature gradient.
Always try to avoid glass tanks such as aquariums. When tortoises can see through to the outside they have a tendency to spend most of their time trying to get out. If you must use a glass tank, cover the bottom four to six inches to block your tortoise's view. You can use strips of plywood, duck tape or even strips of aquarium background to add a little natural look to it.
Considering the Red-Foot needs a higher humidity then most tortoises a substrate mix that will help maintain this humidity is recommended. A mixture of topsoil, sphagnum moss and "Bed-A-Beast" will work as a good substrate.
If room permits, plant some shallow pans with grass, clover and dandelion for grazing and something like monkey grass or small shrubs for cover.
Always try to make the habitat as natural as possible.
Add a few rocks and a branch to help break up the tortoise's view of the entire habitat lending to a feel of a larger area.
You must have proper lighting for indoor habitats. When your tortoise is not getting direct sunlight an alternative light source must be provided.
Over the length of the habitat you want ZooMed's Reptisun 5.0 fluorescent bulbs and I recommend a basking or spot lamp on each end of the habitat as well. In one end try a 75 watt bulb and the other end a 50 watt bulb. Raise the 50 watt spot lamp and that end of the fluorescent light about one to one and a half inches higher then the other end to help create a temperature gradient across the habitat.
A gradient of 78 to 80 degrees F. at one end to somewhere between 82 to 85 degrees F. at the other end would be an exceptable gradient.
This will allow your tortoise to easily find a temperature it is comfortable with.
When housing indoors, a supplement such as Reptical Calcium supplement with vitamin d3 is recommended.
Pieces of cuttle bone and/or eggshell are good sources of calcium also.
You need to have a water dish that is large enough for your tortoise to enter but shallow enough to prevent drowning and allow easy exit.
I prefer something "ground level" to avoid the possibility of a tortoise falling on his back while trying to climb into the dish.
Keep the water clean at all times. Red-Foots tend to defecate and urinate in their water.
Remember, this is the same water they drink so keep it clean!
Mist the indoor habitat daily and soak your Red-Foot at least once a week.