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I've had a horsefield tortoise for about 6 months now and just moved him into a bigger enclosure (i think he's about 3 years old).
I'm thinking of getting an 06/07 tortoise for the old enclosure, i've seen some Hermans in the local reptile shop but what is the difference between Herman and Horsefield tortoise (living conditions, food, size etc...)? |
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Last edited by jms; 11-03-2008 at 08:37 PM. |
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I'm curious as to where the note came from that Russians are only active 3 months out of the year in the wild???????
Reference The Turtles of Russia... S. Kuzmin... Active for 6 months through most of its range... longer in the Southern portion of it's range... Not all Russians burrow. This behavior can be circumvented by providing a comfortable hide. Yes... you can put on weight feeding greens... you can also put on fat... but if you know your greens you can give them an endless supply without fear of them becoming overweight. I forgot my shameless plug... A nice little book on Russians and other Testudo... Amazon.co.uk: Russian Tortoises (Complete Herp Care Series): E. J. Pirog: Books Quote:
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Ed @ not allowed to post a link Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care Last edited by -EJ; 12-03-2008 at 12:37 AM. |
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I was also told not to hibernate my horsefield unless I intended to breed him
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That was from information i was told and later asked a few keepers and people who have done research in the field to establish whether or not it was accurate. On the whole it was, Though it was a rough estimate as the animals in question were not tagged, so admittedly yes, it could be closer to 6 in some areas and cases. TBH though even if they were active up to 6 months it still makes me air on the side of caution in regards to hibernation. But i'm someone who tries to replicate the wild as closely as possible with all my 'exotics'
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In regards to hibernation being scary..the first time I admit i was petrified, so worried, n i still check on them probably more than I should. But providing you have healthy torts to start with and ensure that their guts are completely empty of any food waste,that they are well hydrated going into hibernation..you should have little problems. Have you read T.Ts thread in regards to the hibernation of his special little guy, if that tort can do it, most others can If I can hibernate this special tort...then... |
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Hibernation is sometimes a que for breeding.
You can hibernate even if you do not intend to breed your animal but it is definately not a necessity. If you hibernate your tortoise it would be because you are not providing optimal conditions for the tortoise to survive. If you don't want to hibernate your tortoise... don't. It does not need it. Hibernation is not hard if you understand the mechanics. It can be risky... if you do not understand the mechanics. As mentioned time and again... it's your choice because you are in control of your tortoises life at this point. Quote:
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Ed @ not allowed to post a link Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care |
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