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20-10-2007, 06:00 PM
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Mediterranean Tortoises And Their Care
Okay well i posted this in the care sheet section but i've been asked by a few members to post it here..so here goes.
Housing: The best choice of indoor accommodation is a tortoise table, as med species hate high humidity and are prone to RNS (runny nose syndrome) if this becomes an issue. Something like this is perfect.  You also find frequently that tortoises housed in vivariums can become very stressed. A tortoise doesn’t understand the concept of glass. And if it can see through a surface it will persist in trying to escape.Try to ensure that an area of 4ft x 4ft (minimum) is provided for a juvie-adults indoor accomodation. Outside accomodation is preferable though. Feeding: Med species should be fed on a predominantly weed and wild flower diet.Fruits are a no no as the med tortoise digestive system cannot fully digest the sugars found in fruits..which can lead to food rotting and going bad in the stomach.The majority of vegetables should also be avoided,Spinach and brocolli for two examples,are very high in oxhalic acid, which is bad for med tortoises as it helps to inhibit the absorption of calcium into their systems.Cucumber and (iceberg)lettuce can be given as an occasional treat.They’re fantastic in summer as they help to keep the torts hydrated. Here’s an example of some of the plants I feed my horsfields: Red clover Tufted vetch Chicory Sainfoin Betony Dandelion Welsh poppy Marsh mallow Nettle Yarrow Hedge bedstraw Musk mallow Milk thistle Nipplewort borage Plaintains rose petals Hawkbits & Cat's-ears Hawk's-beards Sow thistle Shepherd's purse Bittercress Creeping Bell-flower Stonecrops Bindweeds Honeysuckle(flowers) Heartsease Water: A Constant supply of water is required.A large shallow dish is better than a small deep one.With hatchlings a shallow dish with pebbles in the bottom may be preferred. As there is a risk of drowning (a hatchling med tortoise is approximately the size of a 50p piece) Baths need to be given frequently,Daily for babies,and at least three-four times a week for adults.Anything between 10-25 minutes is adequate.The water must be warm but not hot.if too cold it won’t stimulate the tortoise to go to the toilet. Supplements: Daily supplements of pure calcium, Limestone flour (or Calypso) are required.A light sprinkling every day will encourage healthy and strong shell growth.For an adult med tortoise Nutrobal should be given three to four times a week, to provide the remaining vitamins and minerals.For babies a light sprinkling of Nutrobal daily is also required. Lighting Requirements: A high UVB level is required with med tortoises,as this helps the body absorb the calcium further.If using separate heat and UVB bulbs,it is recommended that a UVB bulb of 10.0 is needed.Please bare in mind that the effectiveness of UVB bulbs diminishes after 6 months,so it’s advised at this point to replace your bulb.Combined heat/UVB bulbs like the power sun, Megaray or the t-rex combined are highly recommended though slightly more costly.During the summer months 12 hours of light is needed to simulate the time of year.When the cooldown for hibernation starts this is shortened. Heat:Contrary to popular belief a tortoise doesn’t have to be kept hot all the time.A hot spot of 30-32°C at one end of the tortoise table should be sufficient.The tortoise should be provided with hides/houses and deep substrate to allow them to escape the heat if necessary. Substrate: The best substrates for Mediterranean tortoises are a 60/40 or 50/50 mix of top soil to sand. Sometimes you may find that a 50/50 mix may become slightly dusty. Hemp (Aubiose, Hemcore) is also fantastic for tort tables, as, if ingested it is safe and will pass through the tortoises system. Pellets sold as ‘ideal tortoise’ substrate are to be avoided, as they’re high in protein, and if the tortoise eats these it could cause impaction, not to mention lumpy shell growth in the long run. (High fibre, calcium diet...low protein is needed). Try to make the substrate as deep as possible, obviously this depends on how deep the sides on your tortoise table are… but at the very least, deep enough for the tortoise to cover itself. This helps the tortoise to be able to thermo regulate itself. Also horsfields in particular love digging. (and climbing, deep sides on indoor n outdoor enclosures needed!) Hibernation: There are various methods of hibernation, the most popular being the "fridge method" and the "box method". The box method is what the majority of long term captive tortoises have endured over the last 50 years and if you have a suitable environment for this, there is nothing wrong with it. With modern day living, unheated houses and solid brick built outhouses are becoming a thing of the past and so the fridge method is becoming more and more popular with excellent results. The fridge method is my preferred choice of hibernation.
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"When a man wants to murder a tiger he calls it sport; when a tiger wants to murder him he calls it ferocity." George Bernard Shaw Last edited by Katiexx; 20-10-2007 at 06:23 PM. 
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20-10-2007, 06:01 PM
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Fridge Method:
If, like me, you have no suitable outbuilding, then you should consider using the fridge method. You have complete control (with careful planning) over the hibernation conditions therefore allowing your tortoise to have his natural sleep but without the risks that mother nature throws at us. Although some people with just one or two tortoises are successfully using the salad drawers in their domestic fridges, the ideal fridge to use is a separate larder fridge with no icebox compartment. Over the last few years, small drinks chiller cabinets have also been used with success. The most important thing is to be sure that the fridge temperatures are stable and again, this can only be assured with careful monitoring. Be aware that a fridge in an outbuilding that is subjected to varying temperatures is likely to reflect those changing temperatures inside the fridge eventually. Ideally, you need to place your fridge in a room in your house for it to function normally. Once you have decided where the fridge will be placed, it's time to monitor the inside of it where the tortoise will be. Measure the temps at different places inside the fridge because it will vary, and you need to find the ideal spot for the tortoise (5°C or 41°F). An empty fridge will not be as stable in temperature as a full one and therefore adding lots of mass will help to keep the readings stable. Fill the fridge with bottles of water or bricks etc to keep the readings stable. Whilst you are monitoring temps, it’s a good idea to place the hibernation box inside to mimic the time when your tortoise is in there. Once you add things to the fridge, the temperatures will rise and take a while to fall and settle again so the "trial run" needs to be as near to the "real thing" as possible. During the trial run, adjust the fridge thermostat (dial with numbers usually going from 1 - 6, the higher the number, the colder the temps) to find the ideal temperature of 5°C (41°F). As you adjust the dial, the fridge will take some time to settle and stabilise (as much as 48hrs) and this is why plenty of forward planning is needed. You can use various things to house the tortoise inside the fridge. It can be something as simple as a cardboard box with air holes or something more sturdy such as a wooden box (just remember to have the box in place during your trial run). The box doesn't have to be packed with insulation material because you will be controlling the temperature and therefore won’t need any added protection. Having said that, many tortoises seem more comfortable with some padding/digging material making them feel more secure. You can use shredded paper, hemp (aubiose) or a sand/soil mixture for them to dig into. Be aware that the tortoises may try to eat the hemp, due to them being withheld food for four weeks…some will, some won’t. My youngest will eat it, the eldest just nods off. Once hibernation time arrives and the tortoises are inside the fridge, the temps can be monitored daily for any changes. The door to the fridge should be opened daily for air exchange or alternatively, you can run some plastic piping (rubber aquarium tubing) through the seal of the door. Winding down for hibernation: It's very important that the tortoise's digestive system is empty of all food when it goes into hibernation but at the same time that it's fully hydrated. If the tortoise's stomach contains food during hibernation, it can rot inside it and eventually cause death. Tortoises need to empty out for roughly 4 weeks prior to hibernating but must be given the opportunity to drink regularly. When you are winding your tortoise down, it means NO FOOD, not just a little bit because he is looking at you with pleading eyes. (Trust me when I say it’s hard the first time!) Below is a weekly guide to winding down: The tortoise is to be given no food during any stage of the wind down period, this is very important. It is also very important that they are given ample opportunity to drink and are fully hydrated. Bath your tortoise every other day which as well as hydrating him, will encourage him to empty himself out. Week 1: At the beginning of the wind down period, tortoises need to have day length and temperatures that are approximately the same as summertime. This will keep their digestive systems working fully and therefore pass any recently eaten matter through the system. You may find, due to the weather, that they are slightly slower than they were in the summer but be prepared for some pleading looks. Week 2: During week 2, you can keep the temperatures the same as week 1 but in lesser quantities. Therefore, you should be aiming to turn the heat/uv lamps on a little later in the morning and off a little earlier in the evening. This will simulate their shorter day lengths in the wild. Towards the end of week 2, make the "daylight hours" shorter still making it a gradual process. Week 3: By week 3, you will find that your tortoise is coming out from his hiding place less and less. You can now leave the basking lamps off completely and just have a gentle background heat available such as a tubular heater if in an outbuilding or your central heating if it is inside the house. Week 4: During the beginning of the final week, any background heat should be turned down to a bare minimum. You will probably find that the tortoise is not coming out at all now and is inactive. Towards the end of this week, give your tortoise its final bath (not warm enough to stimulate him) and make sure he is thoroughly dried. Place the tortoise in the box that he will be hibernating in. Place the box in a cool place such as an unheated room or a safe outbuilding. If you are using the fridge method, this will cool him down further which will more closely match the fridge temperature. At the end of the 4 weeks (and as long as he isn't still passing anything in his bath water), the tortoise should be ready to go into its hibernation quarters. Make sure you weigh your tortoise before it goes into hibernation. If you have an available outbuilding or just want other ideas for hibernation, please feel free to pm me and I will get back to you ASAP. Monitoring: The tortoise will need careful monitoring during his hibernation period. This will alert you to anything going wrong that may need action. Thermometers should be checked at various points in the day and a physical check and weigh in will be needed weekly. A tortoise's "hibernation stance" varies between individuals. Some will tuck their heads and limbs tightly inside their shells while others will have all their limbs hanging out. When making the checks, try and do it at a time of day when it's coolest to minimize the risk of disturbing it. A couple of minutes observing and weighing your tortoise shouldn't disturb him in the slightest. Check that its cloacal area is clean and dry and there are no signs of defecation or urination. If a tortoise urinates during hibernation, it will need to be got up as it could easily dehydrate. Also check that the nares are dry and clear. Weigh your tortoise and keep a record of how its weight is changing. A safe guideline is that your tortoise shouldn't lose more than 1% of its total body weight per month. You will probably find that during the first couple of weeks, is when it will lose weight more, this is due to him settling down and perhaps being a little active. If he does lose more than 1%, don't panic but monitor the situation as you may well find that a few more weeks down the line, he won't be losing any and therefore it will average out his weight loss over the total period. Awaking your tortoise: Wake up time will be guided by the weather, your decided hibernation length or by a tortoise that has lost too much weight etc. I suggest waking them up early in the day which gives them the rest of the day to heat up and hopefully begin drinking and eating. Make sure you have the tortoise's enclosure up and running with heat/uvb lamps. Take the tortoise out of its hibernation location but still inside the box. Place the box in a heated room for a little while and the tortoise will soon begin to stir. As soon as the tortoise is waking up, take it out of its box and place it under its basking lamps. Heat and light is the only thing that will stimulate him properly and get his system up and running again. This is very important, a tortoise who isn't warm enough will not get going properly and then will have problems beginning to feed. Once the tortoise has had a good warm up under its basking lights and is becoming more active, give him a nice long warm bath. He needs the opportunity to flush out the toxins that have built up during hibernation and replenish his water supply. You may find that he doesn't drink straight away but continue with warm baths until he does. Drinking is far more important than eating in these first few days. Once the tortoise is active (and has hopefully drunk) offer him some food. Some tortoises eat within half an hour of getting up, others might take a few days. Continue with the warm baths daily for at least a week and then they can be gradually cut down. I’m sure I’ve missed things off this care sheet, and will add to it as they occur to me. PLEASE IF THERE IS SOMETHING VITAL I HAVE MISSED DO LET ME KNOW. (also horsfields aren't strictle Med species, but their care and requirements are almost identical, hence why i've bracketed them together) ps couldnt fit it in one post hence the need for two! Sorry guys ---------- The hybernation parts of this caresheet were taken from the site: The Tortoise House Credit goes to The Tortoise House for that information. t-bo.
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"When a man wants to murder a tiger he calls it sport; when a tiger wants to murder him he calls it ferocity." George Bernard Shaw Last edited by t-bo; 23-10-2007 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Added credit disclaimer.
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20-10-2007, 06:59 PM
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Great Caresheet,
Thank You Katie. I don't think you missed anything. Well, nothing i can think of.
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What do we want...ban the burners... What do we want...ban the burners... What do we want...ban the burners... What do we want...ban the burners...
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20-10-2007, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
__________________
What do we want...ban the burners... What do we want...ban the burners... What do we want...ban the burners... What do we want...ban the burners...
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22-10-2007, 12:53 AM
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thought it said that "For babies a light sprinkling of Nutrobal daily is also required." and "For an adult med tortoise Nutrobal should be given three to four times a week" probably should have put growing rather than baby.but won't let me edit it now
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"When a man wants to murder a tiger he calls it sport; when a tiger wants to murder him he calls it ferocity." George Bernard Shaw Last edited by Katiexx; 22-10-2007 at 01:42 AM.
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22-10-2007, 09:16 AM
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I'd also like to add(unless its on and ive missed it) that hatchling torts dont need 4 weeks wind down for hibernation,only 2!
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22-10-2007, 09:17 AM
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Also,how about outdoor enclosures?or are you on to that?sorry,im not being picky
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