|
23-10-2007, 09:17 PM
|
||||
|
||||
i Would not of thought so, I would think with the normal bulb people would use dimmer stats tbh as it regulates the temps, the only reason I dont is because its a MVB and as I said before you cannot use stats with them, for one thing it blows the bulb and for another it voids the waranty as its being used incorrectly and lastly even if i could use a stat with them i wouldnt as it would also reduce the UVB output.
__________________
 I have Gambian Pouched rats available soon please PM me for more details 
|
|
23-10-2007, 09:34 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
 Hope this helps
|
|
23-10-2007, 09:45 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I suppose they're not really needed because the tables open so the heat wont build up at the cool end and the tort can just move away, whereas a snake/lizard in a viv can only move to the cool side which is ok for them but still too warm for most torts. so basically just move the light/heater to a height that gives the correct hotspot temp and let the tort go where it wants too?
|
|
23-10-2007, 09:53 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thats why dimmer stats are used for "light" heating, so they do not turn on and off like a disco but reduce gradually or increase gradually to keep the optimum hot spot, the trouble with the On/Off stats for bulbs is as you say they turn the bulb on and off like a disco not good for the animal and not healthy for the bulb likely to cause a blow.
At the end of the day it depends on your set up if you are using a bulb that is going above the recommended basking temps for your tort (or any animal) its recommended to put it on a stat to prevent any heat related problems such as neurological damage EDIT: sorry this was a reply to WM's post you snuck in before i pressed the save button 
__________________
I have Gambian Pouched rats available soon please PM me for more details
|
|
23-10-2007, 10:20 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I'm sorry, I try to replicate what I have seen in the wild. I have yet to see the sun dim to hold constant temps. Constant temps have been found not to be good for torts in general, this is why they choose to thermoregulate at will
|
|
23-10-2007, 10:29 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
In my opinion, in an open topped enclosure there is no heat build up like in a viv so once you have your lamp set up at a distance that creates an optimum basking temperature its not going to go over it, it should just hold a steady temp at that spot, The enclosure should be large enough to allow the animal an escape from this basking spot. So there is no need for a thermostat really. I use clamp lamps and brooders with no thermostats on open topped enclosures but always ensure there is a cool escape end .
__________________
 www.livefoodsbypost.co.uk Look we can do self promotion as well...Livefoods from £2 a tub - Delivered.
|
|
23-10-2007, 10:34 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Yes constant temps (I assume you are meaning temps the same in the whole enclosure without a cool spot) are also bad for reptiles that is why the hot spot is generally statted for them on the smaller vivs at least, so they have that gradient thats needed, hot spot statted= regulated temps= cool area at the other end to thermoregulate. Note: My personal opinion I will leave this thread now I think
__________________
I have Gambian Pouched rats available soon please PM me for more details
|
|
24-10-2007, 12:01 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Whatever the hot spot, if the enclosure is large enough then you WILL get a temp gradient. If you cannot obtain a natural temps gradient and have to rely on stats then your enclosure is too small IMHO..In twenty odd years of rearing and breeding torts have never had to use a stat, it's unnatural. Of course when torts are big enough to live outdoors all this is unecessay anyway.
|
 |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Linear Mode
