how much would a leopard tortoise be (anyone who saw the leopard gecko post, i said it wrong)

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0.1.0 Bci, Peanuts
1.0.0 royal python, jimmy
1.0.0 cali king, humbug
1.1.1 leopard geckos titch, sunny
im a 13 year old lad

i paid 125 for mine today

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my leopard tort called lucky aged 4 yrs old hatched jan 04




my leopard tort thomas aged 4 hatched jan 2004.

cool how much did the viv and excesories cost

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0.1.0 Bci, Peanuts
1.0.0 royal python, jimmy
1.0.0 cali king, humbug
1.1.1 leopard geckos titch, sunny
im a 13 year old lad

i got a viv but hve now removed the glass and turned it on its bk

as vivs arent good.

bout 160 all in all plujs 125 for tortoise

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my leopard tort called lucky aged 4 yrs old hatched jan 04




my leopard tort thomas aged 4 hatched jan 2004.

vivs are bad.

this will tell you everything you'll need to know...

Tortoise Trust Web - Observations on Dehydration in Reptiles.

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You should never use a viv for a leopard tortoise. It's life expectancy will be reduced to a few miserable years.

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Take care
Sue

wizzasmum@aol.com

Can someone let me know why vivs are bad for Leopards as mine was delivered yesterday. I know they need to hyrdrate a lot and I'm wondering if the vivs dehydrate them too much ? I've got a wall mounted heat mat and spot lamp in the viv (36" long viv) so is this too hot for the Leopard as the supplier recommends the above ?

Also, how long would you recommend leaving the spot lamp on for ? I leave the UV light on early morning until I go to bed (11pm) as recommended but what about the spot lamp ? (Also leave the heat mat on 24 / 7)

Thanks

They aren't. There are some tortoise keepers who are dead set against them for whatever reason...

A viv is an excellent enclosure for a first to second year tortoise because you can control the environment easier.

Leopards are very suseptable to respiratory infection so it is very important to maintain a warm and stable environment.

If you're using a heat mat make sure you have it connected to a rheostat so you have complete control of the output. You dont want it to get too hot. If you place the mat under the viv also make sure there is an air space between the surface the viv is on and the viv itself.

Also make sure there is an area where the tortoise can escape the heat. You are looking for a range of 75 to 95F that the tortoise can move through. You should be able to do this easily with a 3 ft viv.

Keep in mind that the viv will probably last you a year or 2 before you would probably move the tortoise into a larger enclosure.

I've written a care sheet that I can send you if you email me directly at epirog@comcast.net

Oh... the heat mat leave on. The lighting you can turn off at night.

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Ed @ not allowed to post a link
Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care

Have a read through this article:

Tortoise Trust Web - Indoor Housing & Vivarium Design

Tamie

• Poor ventilation. There is a high incidence of tortoises developing ‘Runny Nose Syndrome’ and other respiratory diseases if kept in glass or wooden vivarium-style housing. When the tortoise urinates in such a unit, the humidity skyrockets. This can cause serious problems for arid-habitat species. In the case of high-humidity species, the lack of ventilation can result in mould, fungus and similar problems arising.

With an open top on a 3ft viv and a heat source at one end there is more than enough circulation due to the convection created by the heat source. This also allows you to close off the top during the cooler seasons unless you have a reptile room which you maintain at a warm temperature

• Lack of temperature gradients. An enclosed vivarium is unsuitable for any species that requires a temperature gradient, or differential, to enable self-selection of body temperature. Failure to provide this will have very serious long-term consequences for health.

It is much easier to maintain a stable temperature gradient in a viv than in most other enclosures. It is also much more cost effective because heat is not wasted.

• Lack of microclimates. All but the very largest ‘tank’ systems will have inadequate space and temperature gradients (see above) to permit the tortoise to self-select a suitable microclimate. Again, this has important consequences for long-term health and in addition such deprivation will result in unavoidable stress

With the use of the heat mat the microclimate is easily created when useed in conjunction with a rheostat.

• Lack of “interest” and boredom. Tortoises that are kept in tanks tend to exhibit lethargy (inactivity) and other unnatural behaviour patterns. By contrast, tortoises in suitable outdoor enclosures, or suitably large and well-designed indoor enclosures, will be much more alert and active.

I don't know what the enclosure has to do with activity level. We are discussing indoor enclosures although I don't think anyone can dispute that outdoor accomodations should be provided whenever possible. You can easily and properly design a viv as well as any other enclosure.

• Hygiene. Vivarium-style enclosures tend to be difficult to maintain, and pathogens can build up rapidly. This is one of the reasons we see so many sick animals that have a history of being kept in such accommodation.

Again... Whether the enclosure is glass, wood, brick or whatever has no bearing on the fact that if the enclosure is not occasionally cleaned it will get dirty. The glass is actually more hygenic than wood because the glass does not harbor moisture or bacteria as wood does no matter how well the wood is treated.

• Cost. Vivarium and glass “fish tank” enclosures are extremely costly per square inch of usable space for a tortoise. Tortoises only need sides that are high enough to prevent escape. Fish tanks in particular are designed to provide maximum cubic capacity, not maximum floor area (which is what matters to a tortoise).

While the above is true the whole purpose of using a viv is to adequately maintain a stable environment. The cubic space makes providing that stable environment that much easier.

So we don't miss the point... Vivs are suitable enclosures to a point. As stated previously the tortoise will eventually outgrow the viv but by that time other accommodations can be thought out and provided.

Ironically enough the author of the above article actually recommends underside heating for quite a few applications. (ref Encyclopedia of Turtle... p44) He also suggests the use of vivs for certain applications.

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Ed @ not allowed to post a link
Trying to keep the fun in Chelonian care