Sleepy tort part 2: Blame the lightbulb! - Page 2

larsselleth · #11 (**permalink**) 27-02-2008, 10:30 AM

It was my misses who pointed out it might be too bright, she sits next to the viv. haha
Let us know your findings Little Foot. Baldrick spent little time in his hiding, he sat under the bulb and slept or just had his eyes shut and basked.

Sally026 · #12 (**permalink**) 27-02-2008, 11:56 AM

Hi,

I have done some changing around in the viv this morning to try and get Nori to wake up a bit and be more active. I have moved the UV light down and replaced the bulb.

I've got a 100 watt light and ceramic heat lamp in there as don't seem to be able to get the temperature right for him (anyone know in centigrade what the temp should be and where to put the sensor) I have got a combined system. I have got a water dragon in a viv on top of the tort viv, and they are both running off the same thermostat, however she seems to be getting hot and he doesn't seem reach the same temp, therefore I changed his 60 watt bulb to one of her 100 watt bulbs but are now worried that it might be too bright for him.

Someone please help I want my active tort back.

larsselleth · #13 (**permalink**) 27-02-2008, 12:11 PM

Hi Sally, remember I am new, so my advice may not be A1 :o(

I personally put the thermometer in the basking area. You need the the basking temp to be around 35 Centigrade, with cooler area at approx 21 Centigrade.
I have read ideally the ceramic bulb should be 16 inches from the substrate. If you're not getting enough heat I cannot see the problem in lowering the ceramic bulb. Just keep testing it to make sure its not too hot. (If anyone see's a problem with this tell us)
If both vivs are on a thermo, then where is the temp probe? Because it will change the heat for where the probe is.

Sally026 · #14 (**permalink**) 27-02-2008, 03:36 PM

Hi,

The thermometer has two probes and two settings so I have a probe in each tank. Both in the same place down the cooler end.

I'm going to give him a week with all the changes I have made and see if he becomes more active, if not will have to go back to the drawing board.

You will have to let me know how you get on.

Thanks

pink · #15 (**permalink**) 27-02-2008, 11:34 PM

Most 10% UVB strips are now made to have an effective range of 20", obviously the closer to it the stronger it gets.

nonacle · #16 (**permalink**) 09-03-2008, 03:52 PM

Research has been done and it has been found certain lamps having been giving the tortoises photo-kerato-conjunctivitus, which can be very painful for them. It's been found that even reputable brands like zoomed have had these problems with their lamps.
I found out about this because my hermann got it. He became very lethargic, kept his eyes closed and they were badly swollen. But a new lamp made all the difference. Website with more info is below,

UV Lighting for Reptiles: A new problem with high UVB output fluorescent compact lamps and tubes?

-EJ · #17 (**permalink**) 09-03-2008, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larsselleth

Right, many of you know im a newbie with a Red Foot.

I have come to realise that my heat source, a 100watt light bulb is the reason why my tort sleeps all day. And why I thought he had an eye infection.
Sunday he slept all day. I have the light on as a heat source and his eyes were shut. His head was moving, but I thought this was natural movement whilst asleep. Yesterday, (Monday) he was asleep all day again. I got worried when he was moving his head allot, like he was awake. So I took him out of his viv, popped him on the floor, and he started walking around in small circles, eyes closed. I was convinced he had an eye infection in BOTH eyes. So I washed them and they opened fine.
The misses then suggested maybe the bulb is too bright. I took the bulb out, just left the UV on and switched the heat matt on to keep the temp up. Eyes open, he actually wandered around his viv (He has never done that). He went in his water/bath. He ate his food. He stayed awake. Normally he eats out of the viv and seldomly went in his water. This morning with no light on, he was awake when I got up, having a potter about.
Has anyone else experienced a problem with a lightbulb being too bright? I use a 100W because it kept the temperatures perfect (I tested 40 and 60watts too)
I remember getting advice off BlondeSarah(?) about Red Foots being sensitive to light, and she seems to be correct (I never doubted her, I just didn't think properly about it)
So im deff getting a ceramic bulb now.

How often do you spray or mist the tortoise and it's enclosure?

Does it have a humid hide... a humid place where it can retreat to?

While it does not have to have high humidity it is beneficial to provide the previously mentioned items.

I don't think the lighting has much to do with it although if the temperatures are too high or too low that can be a problem.

kimmerz · #18 (**permalink**) 09-03-2008, 07:58 PM

i'm thinking of getting a ceramic heater for my reds who are about a year old nearly, 1 spends most of it's time in the hide and the other sleeps under the spot light, and thats there day basically, the thing that I think about is if i have no light source (apart from the uvb for a few hours aday) will they know to get up and walk about by the heat coming on or what? I'm slightly confused as what to think as I understand it being to bright but can it also be too dark?

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