![]() |
|
||||
|
Yes i have come accross this, red foots have delicate eyes.
Think about it in the wild they live on a forest floor and hardly ever come accross sun light, they all their nutrients through their diet. Temperature is very important, i keep mine at 27c cool end and 35 in warm, might time does not drop below 18c. Always make sure you offer lots of water.
__________________
Tortoise Keeper of: Red foots, Horsfields,Stars, Tunisians, Pancakes,Hermanns,Leopards and Iberas. www.shelledwarriors.co.uk SHELLED WARRIORS SHOP No1 for Seeds, Tables, UVB, Live food, Bowls, Heating etc NEW SHOP: www.shelledwarriorsshop.co.uk 3.9.10 Crested Geckos 20+ eggs cooking 1.1 chihuahua 4.14 leopard geckos 7 eggs cooking 1.1 fat tails 1.2 Bearded Dragon 22 eggs cooking
|
|
||||
|
Definately gets my vote, big believer in ceramics. Hope it works out for you.
__________________
Coast to Coast Exotics www.coasttocoast.co.uk Legendary reptile breeder and shop Zoo Logic UK Ltd - Importer/exporter/wholesaler. http://www.zoo-logic.co.uk/ Free to loving owner. Reptile shop owner (Coastius exoticus). Wild caught but tamed down well. Well behaved but can be a little excitable at times. Is litter trained and easy to look after. Dietery needs consists of Pizza and curry. Comes complete with own housing and other accessories. Pm for further details............... |
|
||||
|
My lot have light a 80w bulb and a 10.0 uvb strip but they are alot older. I think its the UVb that causes the most harm.
__________________
Tortoise Keeper of: Red foots, Horsfields,Stars, Tunisians, Pancakes,Hermanns,Leopards and Iberas. www.shelledwarriors.co.uk SHELLED WARRIORS SHOP No1 for Seeds, Tables, UVB, Live food, Bowls, Heating etc NEW SHOP: www.shelledwarriorsshop.co.uk 3.9.10 Crested Geckos 20+ eggs cooking 1.1 chihuahua 4.14 leopard geckos 7 eggs cooking 1.1 fat tails 1.2 Bearded Dragon 22 eggs cooking
|
|
||||
|
I also have a UV 10.0 tube and Balders is not bothered by this...I think. Although I have got it too high (Approx 40cm, some one told me to mount it on the back wall instead...prob BlazingTortoise)
When I make the table I will move the UV onto the back. Although Sarah saying she has an 80w is somewhat of a spanner in the works. I have no idea what Wattage ceramic to get. 100w? less or more? Although I imagine it will not matter too much as the 'stat will regulate the heat. Hopefully my last question on the subject, how high do you have the ceramic bulb off the substrate? I have read atleast 40cm... |
|
|||
|
Hi, I'm new to this so please bear with me. I have had a red foot for about 7 months and was never told about a normal bulb I have only ever used a 250 watt ceramic heat lamp. However whilst visiting a reptile centre today she told me that my tortoise needed light as when the heat lamp got to temperature it would turn off and therefore not be supplying a basking area.
She also told me that the UV lamp should be about ten inches from the substrate and mine is alot higher than that, does anyone know where it should actually be and do I need a normal bulb aswell as the ceramic? Thanks |
|
||||
|
A few people have mentioned about the UV light, but if you stare at the UV light then a 100 watt bulb you'll see the difference. I switched on the 60 watt this morning and within five mins his eyes were shut. When the UV light is on she keeps her eyes open. However I have been told my UV light is far too high. Ive just won on eBay a 2 ceramic bulbs and Habistat thermo, so hopefully all will be good soon.
Sally, Im also new to this. Only had my Red Foot for 2 weeks now, but I have learned a great deal. After turning my bulb off I noticed my tort being more active, not sleeping as much and her eyes opening. Your UV is prob. too high. I was told by the pet shop that a UV 10.0 should be about 10 inches from the substrate too, but I have been informed several times on this board that is too high and to mount it on the back wall of my viv. Start a new thread off and see what you get, ill be interested to know as im about to redesign my viv into a tort table. As regards to a normal bulb and a ceramic, im going to say no. HOWEVER I am new and I will be testing over the weekend what works best. BlondeSarah is very knowledgeable on Red Foots and yesterday she said she had an 80 watt bulb with hers, but they are adults. Sarah has advised me twice that Red Foots have very sensitive eyes and in their natural habitat they would not see so much sunlight due to leaves etc. I think because our torts are nippers that the natural light and the UV should sufice. |
|
||||
|
I am finding this very interesting because I have noticed that my two baby redfoots are very often awake but stay in their hides.So now I am thinking maybe the light is too bright?
The only thing is I see the smaller one bask under the light now and then so am a bit confused as to if it is the light so I am going to try a few experiments out with lighting and heating and see what differences it makes. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|