You potray an aggressive snake, hognoses are more of the escape contact side of the fence rather than attacking... In fact the only reported bites came from feeding responses, in which case any snake will turn into a frenzy and become highly likely to strike.

Hognoses have a wide vareity of defense manvouvers, hissing, flattening the neck, playing dead and headbutting (which would be the alternative to biting for this snake). In most cases, hognoses will tend to hiss and flatten the neck, in which time you have picked them up and once out of the tank become just as docile as a corn snake. And in time, the hissing and flattening of the neck will phase out too.

I believe hognoses are brilliant snakes and far from aggressive (excluding the odd personality which you will find in any species). Highly recommended as a pet. Of course you have to be warey of the fact they are rear fanged, but if you go to get your snake out, and he hisses at you, flattens his neck, plays dead and then head butts you... but you still wont leave him be then you deserve whats coming. Although even then I think the furthest it would get is the headbutting personally...

Also, they don't grow to 3-4ft

also a 3x2x2 foot viv is massive for a hoggie, for my hoggie i have a 2x2 and 1.5 high, and its massive for her!

this care sheet is very mistaken, i wonder if the writer actually owns a hoggie?

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This is only a brief guide, but may be a bit more useful.....


Description.

The Western Hognose is one of 3 species of hognose found throughout the US, and is the only one likely to be encountered in UK collections. Until recently, there were considered to be 3 subspecies, these being the Plains Hognose (H. n. nasicus), the Dusky Hognose (H.n.gloydi) and the Mexican Hognose (H. n. kennerlyi). However, current consensus is that gloydi is no longer valid and simply represents a local variant. Some workers also now consider that kennerlyi should be considered a separate species in its own right, but this is yet to be confirmed.
Western hoggies are a small colubrid snake, with females reaching an average of around 24” in length, males being slightly smaller at around 18”. As with all snakes, of course, there will always be some which grow to a larger size.
Although relatively small, they can be heavy bodied in comparison to their length, particularly females.
The name “hognose” comes from the enlarged, upturned rostral scale, which is believed to be used to forage through loose ground for food.
In generall, these snakes have a glossy black underside with creamy yellow markings giving a slight chequered appearance. The rest of the body is usually brown or grey with darker blotches down the back and sides.
Naturally, they feed on a variety of prey, predominantly toads, but they do also feed on rodents, lizards, and according to some sources nestling birds.
It should be noted that this is a rear fanged species, with the fangs located slightly behind the eye. In my experience, the fangs are paired and hinged ie can be held flat against the roof of the mouth, and can be erected when needed. Although envenomated bites are rarely documented, those that have been have noted some quite significant symptoms including swelling, pain, discolouration, and in one case permanent damage to the immune system. The hinged fangs may explain why some people who have been bitten have reported no symptoms.

Captive Requirements.

Hognoses require a temperature of around 28C, with a photoperiod of 12-14 hours per day. They appreciate a substrate in which they can burrow. Sand should NOT be used due to the potential for injury caused by sand irritating the skin between the scales (interstitial skin). A good substrate which is commonly used is aspen, which is light weight and non-abrasive. Hides should be provided, along with a water bowl.
Heating can be provided in a number of ways, including heat mats, spot bulbs, and ceramics. Whichever method you choose, you must use a thermostat to control the temperature.
Housing can also be provided in a variety of methods. The most commonly used are either plastic tubs (RUBs, Contico’s and similar) and wooden vivaria. A 24 x 15 x 15 viv is quite adequate for these snakes, although some keepers prefer to use a larger viv, of 3 x 2 x 2 feet.
Hatchlings should be housed in small tubs as they seem to become easily stressed.

Feeding.

Hognoses are usually enthusiastic feeders. Once established, they will take mice readily. Recent information which has become available from breeders in the States is that hoggies should be fed more often than other colubrids, the suggestion for hatchlings being every 4 days.
Adult females are more than capable of taking large mice and rat weaners, while males, being smaller, will take medium mice.

Breeding.

Hognoses should be at least 2 years old, if not 3, before they are paired for breeding.
Whether they need to be cooled or not is a matter for debate. Some breeders do, some don’t. However, it has been noted that male fertility can decline over the years if there has been no brumation. To brumate the snakes, give a final feed 2 weeks before you intend to start cooling, then over a 2 week period gradually reduce temperature and photoperiod until they reach a temperature of 50F and in darkness. The snakes are then held like this for 3 months, only being disturbed to change their water weekly. After 3 months, the process is reversed. The snakes should also be kept separate throughout this period. Once back up to the correct temperature, offer a smaller than normal feed, then feed them heavily. Bear in mind that while with a female, males often lose interest in food.
Once paired, by introducing the male to the female, they should mate almost straight away. A moist egg laying box should be introduced, containing damp moss, so that the female becomes used to it.
After a period of time, the female will shed, and then lay her eggs.
Eggs should be incubated as for other North American species.
Hatchlings can be difficult to start feeding, as they may need to have the pinks scented.

Further information can be found at :

www.hognose.com
www.thehognosesnake.co.uk
www.hognose.co.uk

Would a photo help?

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Nothing grows faster than a fish from the time it bites until the time it gets away!! (Except Bearded Dragons)

i've read that they evolved to look like a prairie rattlesnake as a defence, see pic

Crotalus viridis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

hoggies get no were near as heavy bodied 2 compare 2 a blood. infact i wouldnt even say they were heavy bodied.

3*2 is a gigantic viv, i keep mine in 3*1 and even that is huge.

a hoggy will never get 3-4feet long. a 3foot hoggy is a very good size female.

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Is this care sheet going on the BEKS site?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PrimalUrges Heroin is the easiest to administer, but smacked up snakes aren't that much fun to watch, whereas a snake on amphetamines is proper bo!

Naughty, naughty!

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To be honest I have no idea!
It is a care sheet that I wrote, I certainly have no problem with it being put on there, but I don't know how it would work having been on here first. If RFUK are happy for it to be used then so am I.

I thought he was referring to the original, not yours ian14!

The whistling sort of implied as much.....

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