my Royal Python care sheet
The Royal Python Care Sheet
The Basics
Python Regius (latin name) is commonly known by two names. In america it is known as the Ball Python due to the way it rolls up into a ball when threatened. This is a way of defence however as they grow up in captivity and realise balling up does not stop you from handling them they may stop doing it. The other common name, which is used in the UK, is Royal Python. This comes from two sources, the first of which is that the latin name Python Regius literally translates as 'Royal Python'. The name also comes from the beleif that Cleopatra (ancient Egyptian royalty) wore them around her wrists. Royal Pythons are native to African countries such as Ghana, Nigeria and Sudan. Their natural environment is one of savannah grasslands and loosely forested areas, therefore mimicking these surroundings in captivity is ideal. Royal Pythons generally grow between 3 and 5 feet, with females being larger than males. The record length was a female over 6 feet long.
Housing
Royal Pythons do best in a smaller space as they like to feel secure. This does not mean a really small enclosure is perfect because these snakes can grow pretty large and may outgrow a tiny vivarium. Starting off with a very large open vivarium will likely make a small Royal Python feel insecure and so there are two main options for housing. Either start with a small vivarium about the length of the snake and increase the size as the snake grows, or start with a larger vivarium with plenty of hideouts. I recommend a 3' long vivarium with proper ventilation and safety glass, as this will last your snake its entire life unless it grows to monster lengths. As long as there are 3-4 hideouts and plenty of logs or plants in the vivarium the young Python should feel secure. An insecure Royal Python is known to stop feeding, so do not overlook these facts!
Equipment
Inside your selected vivarium you will need to have as much stuff from this list of equipment as possible:
- Hideouts. At least 3-4 are recommended, these can be anything from proper snake caves to upside down plant pots.
- Water Bowl. This should be large enough for the Python to sit in while shedding (more on that later).
- Wood. Anything from a piece of driftwood to a wooden hideout, your Python will rub on this while shedding.
- Plants. Artificial or real plants are recommended to make your Python feel more secure.
- Substrate. Orchid Bark, Aspen Bedding, Newspaper, Paper Towel or Coconut Husk are options. DO NOT use Cedar. I use Orchid Bark.
- Heat Mat. Undertank heating is better for Royal Pythons than an overhead lamp because they like to sit on the hot spot.
- Thermometers. The temperature must be recorded at both the hot and cold end of the enclosure.
- Hygrometer. The humidity of the vivarium must be recorded at around the middle of the enclosure.
- Thermostat. The most essential piece of equipment, this is necessary to control the safe temperature of the heat mat.
Heating
It is very imporant to have the right methods and temperatures of heating in your enclosure. Firstly, it is important to choose the right type of heater. I would recommend a heat mat, which should be placed underneath the substrate at one end of the tank. This will be the hot end. You can also have a heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter for overhead heating but this is optional, this should be on the hot side also. As snakes are cold blooded they need to thermoregulate, this means they need a hot and cold side of their cage and will move between the two to keep warm or cool down. I would say a thermostat is essential too, as this controls the temperature of your heat lamps and mats and makes sure your snake does not overheat. The hot side should remain about 30-32*C all the time, and the cool end at about 26-28*C at least during the day, though the temperature can drop slightly at night. Never exceed temperatures of above 35*C or below 25*C, another reason why a thermostat control is essential.
Lighting
Royal Pythons, being nocturnal, do not need any sort of UVA or UVB light source. You can have a spot lamp, which produces light but no heat, or a heat/light lamp combination, but these are all optional. If you do have a spot light I recommend you have it on for 8-10 hours during the day, and of course have it off at night. These snakes need it dark at night too, so I do not recommend them in a room where the room light will be on most of the night (such as a bedroom for those of you who stay up late). If you do have it in a room such as this, drape a cloth over the screen glass overnight.
Feeding
Royal Pythons will eat prey about the size of the widest part of their body, such as mice and rats. I do not recommend live feeding because it is discouraged by the RSPCA and other organisations. If you do choose to live feed, do so in the privacy of your own home and do not advertise the fact that you are doing it online. A Royal Python will eat usually once a week when it is younger and then once every two weeks or so when fully grown. When younger it will eat mice fluffs and adult mice, before moving onto rat pups and rats. Royal Pythons have a reputation of being very bad feeders, so do not be suprised if your Python rejects food quite often. There are a number of things you can do to tempt your Python to feed, such as warming the food up with a hairdryer or exposing its brain. Live feeding can be a last resort for those snakes which are not eating and these methods are not working.
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