Royal Python (python regius)
One of the most commonly kept snake in captivity, but is it really a beginners snake? hopefully this care sheet will be able to advise and help anyone new to the hobby, and also those who keep these lovely snakes. also, im using this as an oppurtunity to get any ideas from other keepers with anything that they do differently. of course, this is just my general guide to caring for the species, so by all means share any ideas etc.

Location
Royal Pythons are generally found in the west midrift of africa, grasslands and forest areas are its natural habitat, where it can use its colouration to camoflauge itself against leaf litter and woodland debris.

Characteristics
Royals are very shy nocturnal animals, that curl up into a ball with their head in the centre if threatened (hence its american name the "ball python"). These snakes are naturally coloured a darkish green with black markings outlined in a light cream/yellow with a light underbelly, this helps it to blend in with its natural habitat when ambushing prey and avoiding predators. They also have a very bad habit of climbing, which would be ok if they could actually climb without falling off most of the time!

Choice of Snake
make sure your intended purchase is in good health, captive bred, free of mites and any signs of disease. check all the mouth area, nostrils, scale condition, eyes, just to be sure you are not getting a specimen in bad nick. the snake should have shiny eyes, clean scales and very alert with a lotr of tongue flicking, non-aggressive attitude, it may even roll into a ball when you first hold it, but should soon come out when it realises you mean no harm.

Housing
For a single adult snake, a 36"L x 15"W x 18"H (" - inches) vivarium would be an ideal size, big enough to allow it to move around but small enough for it to still feel secure. for a young snake, a small plastic tub with suitable ventilation (such as what you would keep a mouse in, available from most pet shops) would be fine.
for cage furniture, you can make it as simple or interesting as you like, just stick to a few basic rules - provide a hide at each end of the thermogradient (see temperatures), and for starters a water bowl large enough for the snake to sit in comfortably (i find mine doesnt like water too much so have replaced with a smaller one to make space for him). for hides, use something such as a box or half log reptile hide, as long as your snake is happy it doesnt matter what it looks like, it wont be particularly house proud!
a spot clean and water change daily, and a full clean out every month should be fine to keep your viv and snake in good shape.
one more thing, invest in a cage lock as it will only be a matter of time before it figures a way to escape by pushing the glass doors open.

Temperatures
I keep my royal at a daytime temp of around 30-32*C at the hottest end and a nightly drop to around 27-28*C. i won't go into detail about different types of heating ad the thermogradient as im sure its easier if somebody covers it in one thread rather than everyone repeating it (job oppurtunity!).

Substrates
I'm currently using Aspen bedding from "the range" at around £1.99 a bag which will do a full cleanout twice over, i find it looks nice and is easy to clean up and cheap to replace. again, i wont go into different substrates for same reason as temperatures.

Humidity
I use in the coolest end hide a handful of moss to keep up the humidity of the viv, using a t-rex humdity gauge i aim for around 40-60% depending on whether hes in shed or not.

Feeding
Royals are notoriously awkward feeders. I feed my royal on pretty much anything he will take (luckily im blessed with a good feeder), i use only frozen thawed foods that are warmed to slightly higher than room temp (use heat pad or similar heat source). he has taken - adult mice, small rats, gerbils, chicks, pink rats, hamsters and small quail. use a large pair of bbq tongs or something to introduce the food item, or simply place it in front of your snake if hes a ready feeder. i used to get the best feeding response on large white mice, but gerbils are probably his favourite now (the species natural food is probably why). recently hes not interested in anything smaller than a gerbil, so white mice and smaller are currently off the menu.
my baby royal on the other hand is a bit of a problem feeder, only taking assist fed pinkies at the moment. to assist feed your snake, it is best to be shown by someone who has the confidence and know-how to do so first, although here is a quick guide to how i do it: grasp your snake gently behing the head, not the neck, and using your thumb and forefinger gently push the food item into the point of the mouth. sometimes, your snake will take the food straight away, constricting it and swallowing, although if it doesnt, simply put the snake on a flat surface with the food still in its mouth, and follow it around with the food until eventually it swallows. like i previously said, it is best to be shown how to do this properly first, as you do not want to inadvertantly injure your snake.
do not handle your snake for at least 24-48 hours if possible to avoid regurgitation.

Handling
when picking up your snake, always watch the business end, in case he mistakes you for food (always wash your hands before and after handling). grasp your snake firmly but gently about half way down its body, with the other hand on the tail and lift the snake straight out before it can attach itself to nearby cage furniture! try and handle your snake for around 10mins per day if possible, just to get it used to being out. when putting it back into the viv, allow the snake to find its own way once you have got its first half in.

Breeding
This is one area i have no experience in, so if someone else is in the know then please share! I shall also leave sexing the snake etc to who ever can fill this gap as im tired of typing now!

thanks for reading, hope this has helped, and can help anyone who keep these snakes! any feedback is appreciated and if someone can fill in the breeding section thatd be cool.
also, anything i missed i will be happy to add in.

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1.0 Royal Python
1.1 Irian Jaya Carpet Python
1.1 Colombian Red Tail Boa
1.1 Albino Boa
1.0 Snow Corn
0.0.1 Hermanns Tortoise

Just to make a little correction, royal temps should be about 95f in the warm end and 85f in the cool end, a drop of a few degree's at night won't do them any harm. The best way to achieve these temps is via a ceramic heater, on a stat of course.

Tight fitting hides are essential, a humid hide isn't required all the time, but one can be added during sloughing, and keep the humidity up at that tine anyway.

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Regards,
Dan

I'd say that 95f was the maximum, no higher... I personally dont have any significant night time drop unless im cooling

i wouldnt say "correction" was the appropriate word really, that temp seems a little extreme to me, id rather keep them slightly cooler with a nightly drop as i mentioned.

but as said when this part of forum was created, everyone has different ideas and methods, this is mine and it works for me so techinally theres nothing to correct

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1.0 Royal Python
1.1 Irian Jaya Carpet Python
1.1 Colombian Red Tail Boa
1.1 Albino Boa
1.0 Snow Corn
0.0.1 Hermanns Tortoise

same goes here really, but good care sheet though,

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Happiness is not having what you want, but wanting what you already have.

0.1.0 Boa Constrictor
1.0.0 Royal Python
1.1.0 Leopard Geckos

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Be kind to everything and everyone - well frozen rodents and crickets are exempt - wear a smile and when the enemy arrives at the door you look good!!!!!

hi sandi thanks for the comments i know the feeling with the love bug lol, my male is "that age" where its his first year when hes ready for nookie, and everything else comes second.

ive got myself a baby female to keep him occupied, although shes got another year or 2 until shes ready for his advances!

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1.0 Royal Python
1.1 Irian Jaya Carpet Python
1.1 Colombian Red Tail Boa
1.1 Albino Boa
1.0 Snow Corn
0.0.1 Hermanns Tortoise

__________________
Be kind to everything and everyone - well frozen rodents and crickets are exempt - wear a smile and when the enemy arrives at the door you look good!!!!!

I would just like to say that this care information has really helped me to look after my python.

I was given my python today as a present and she seemed to be hiding all day, I was surprised as I have looked after a Western Hognose and she was active quite a lot during the day.

After reading the part about how they prefer indirect sunlight I changed the bulb to a red one and she is now up and about =]

Thanks for the help =]

Hi All, Just got a Royal python as a present (It's awesome, such a friendly snake) but just wanted to check the best place to get temperature control from and how to set it up, Im currently just using a heat pad.