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what i want to say is they not perfect. the power might go down, slight change in freq or whatever it is - dont trust them fully and always have back-up.
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Is the thermometer a dial-type thermometer or a digital one?
If it's a digital one with a remote probe, put the probe for the thermometer right next to the probe for the thermostat, and put both of these inside the faunarium as close as your snake can get to the mat. If it's a dial one these are notoriously unreliable to begin with, but put it on the floor right above the mat. If the mat feels warm to the touch, it's proving that the mat is hotter than 70 degrees - that would feel COOL to your hand, not warm (the temperature of your hands will be closer to 88/90 degrees). Quote:
Hell of a lot safer than just trusting your heating equipment won't get too hot all by itself.
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- Ssthisto ![]() ![]() Lizards: 2.2 E. macularius, 1.2 H. caudicinctus, 1.0 R. ciliatus, 0.2.1 A. fragilis, 1.1 T. merianae, 1.0 V. niloticus ittibittius Colubrids: 3.5.15 P. guttattus, 1.0 P. guttatus X E. climacophora, 1.1 P. o. rossalini, 1.0 P. o. lindheimeri, 0.1 E. anomala, 0.1 C. radiatus 1.2 Lamprophis spp, 1.0 L. g. nigritus, 0.1 L. g. californiae, 1.0 H. n. nasicus Boids: 1.1 E. c. maurus, 0.1 E. conicus, 4.1.6 P. regius, 1.1 A. maculosa We HAD a three-bedroom house... Current lodgers: 1.0 E. c. maurus, 1.1 E. c. loveridgei |
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Have you moved it off the wall of the faunarium and put it on the floor (facing up) right on top of the mat? As I said, the round "dial" thermometers are pretty crap - they can be up to 20 degrees wrong and they break pretty easily too.
Heat mats do NOT heat the air - they heat objects. A thermometer on the wall of an enclosure won't give you any useful information about what your snake (which is on the floor) is experiencing in temperature.
__________________
- Ssthisto ![]() ![]() Lizards: 2.2 E. macularius, 1.2 H. caudicinctus, 1.0 R. ciliatus, 0.2.1 A. fragilis, 1.1 T. merianae, 1.0 V. niloticus ittibittius Colubrids: 3.5.15 P. guttattus, 1.0 P. guttatus X E. climacophora, 1.1 P. o. rossalini, 1.0 P. o. lindheimeri, 0.1 E. anomala, 0.1 C. radiatus 1.2 Lamprophis spp, 1.0 L. g. nigritus, 0.1 L. g. californiae, 1.0 H. n. nasicus Boids: 1.1 E. c. maurus, 0.1 E. conicus, 4.1.6 P. regius, 1.1 A. maculosa We HAD a three-bedroom house... Current lodgers: 1.0 E. c. maurus, 1.1 E. c. loveridgei |
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well, it didnt. the temp was 39 deg when i got home. maybe its my bad luck but my snakes should not have to share it. since that day i depend more on couple of 25w bulbs plus 15w just in the case.
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What brand of thermostat were you using, Alinoee? The ones I use (Microclimates and Habistats) both shut the equipment off if the thermostat fails (I've had one blow a fuse and it shut off the ceramic heaters it was attached to).
I'm trying to imagine what kind of vivarium would be adequately heated in cold external temperatures but not overheated in hot external temperatures by a 25w bulb... even my 25-watt bulb enclosures use a dimmer thermostat to ensure they stay at the right temperature.
__________________
- Ssthisto ![]() ![]() Lizards: 2.2 E. macularius, 1.2 H. caudicinctus, 1.0 R. ciliatus, 0.2.1 A. fragilis, 1.1 T. merianae, 1.0 V. niloticus ittibittius Colubrids: 3.5.15 P. guttattus, 1.0 P. guttatus X E. climacophora, 1.1 P. o. rossalini, 1.0 P. o. lindheimeri, 0.1 E. anomala, 0.1 C. radiatus 1.2 Lamprophis spp, 1.0 L. g. nigritus, 0.1 L. g. californiae, 1.0 H. n. nasicus Boids: 1.1 E. c. maurus, 0.1 E. conicus, 4.1.6 P. regius, 1.1 A. maculosa We HAD a three-bedroom house... Current lodgers: 1.0 E. c. maurus, 1.1 E. c. loveridgei |
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