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my royal python has always had a really clean shed, but this time its really messy, he's slowly getting there. we got him in jan and he 1st ate in feb but then refused anything we offered, last month after getting desperate we decided to try him on small rats and after 3 semi assisted feeds he's now got back into the swing if eating beautifuly and regaining weight, could this be the reason 4 his messy shed, the fact he's put on lost weight quite quick?
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Reasons for poor shedding:
Stress Incorrect environment Illness I'd opt for humidity being lower than you think because hygrometers are never right in my experience i have an old one in a viv which says to me it's 94% humidity when i know it certainly is not lol and stress could have been from assist feeds but also it is important to establish WHY it stopped feeding again: Stress Incorrect envrionment Illness are the main causes...
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www.regalreptiles.co.uk ![]() 2008 Corn Snakes Available (Aztec, Caramel, Charcol, Hypo, Hypo Stripe) 2 Male Royals Avaiable: 1 Proven Breeder, 1 66% Poss Het Pied Ready To Breed |
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we got him january and he only fed once which was in the feb, got to early july and my friend who breeds royals showed me how to assist feed, now found the perfect way to get him to eat independantly, all his past sheds have been perfect, just this one that not so good, doesn't seem stressed as still very active and social, routine not changed.
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How old is the royal?
Is it CB/CF? What environment is it in? Viv/tub/mat/bulb? Is it being handled? How often? What methods of feeding have been tried to get a voulntary response from him? Also i wouldn't bother with night drop, i never drop any of mine nor do a lot of royal keepers, messing around with temps seems to knock them out of synch a bit.
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www.regalreptiles.co.uk ![]() 2008 Corn Snakes Available (Aztec, Caramel, Charcol, Hypo, Hypo Stripe) 2 Male Royals Avaiable: 1 Proven Breeder, 1 66% Poss Het Pied Ready To Breed |
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he's early 07 and CF, handled a couple of times a week, only reason temp drops at night is we turn his light off, his heating is via ceramic heater with a pulse thermostat. when we got him we were told to just put the mouse in and leave him to it, now i hold him out straightish and put the rat to his mouth and he instantly grabs it, i then put him on the floor to coil it and eat, was just bad advice from shop when we got him, and as we were new to this we listened to what we were told, then finally realised they obviously spoke out of their arse when it came to our snake!!! was reluctant to post thread as i noticed people r quick to critisize instead of offer advise.
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I'd personally forget the stuff at the top, all my ceramics stay on 24/7. Boids especially have very delicate respiratory systems and benefit greatly from overhead heating which a ceramic provides perfectly but a drop in temperatures can cause a nightmare for their respiratory systems so i'd be leaving the ceramic on 24/7 to ensure no respiratory problems set in as they can be a nightmare to sort once established and they take hold quick.
Feeding, well he seems pretty keen and i'm guessing he has a favourite hide spot under the heater? Get the mouse nice and warm on the top of the viv where the ceramic is in the evening and then just twitch it around infront of the hide gently at ground level and see if he tweaks to it, if so persevere with that for a bit because once he puts 2 + 2 together and gets 4 he'll go for it and then start feeding himself. Royals aren't the best handling snakes so it may be best to ease up on handling for a bit to entice strike feeding as although assisting isn't major stress to them it is somewhat more stressful than them self feeding, obviously if no joy after a little while go through what's working now but i always tend to try wiggling a warm defrost before assisting because eventually one day that snake clicks and goes ooo that's dinner, it's warm it moves...get it get it get it *bang coil munch* and job done. Hopefully you don't take this as criticism. Rach
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www.regalreptiles.co.uk ![]() 2008 Corn Snakes Available (Aztec, Caramel, Charcol, Hypo, Hypo Stripe) 2 Male Royals Avaiable: 1 Proven Breeder, 1 66% Poss Het Pied Ready To Breed |
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thanks 4 advice mate, we tried feeding him in viv but he would just turn his back on mouse, but since buying rats he's in feed heaven. adore my snake and will keep him 4 life, had him since jan but every day is like day 1 with the joy of him, if i'm honest it's not always twice a week, more often less due to young children, when we do handle him he doesn't dart about just chills on lap or round my arm, i know i'm still new to this compared to most people but he really does seem happy and chilled. i leave the ceramic on 24/7, its his actual light i turn off, its a amber 40watt bulb we use, ceramic is a 100watt. my other half use to come on this site but everyone seem to critisize rather than help, so i joined tonight and really pleased with advice given. so thanks again
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Not many use light and ceramic, i'd be tempted there to stat ceramic as is already and set that to 90 then just have bulb on when you want to look at him as lights can often put royals off feed too. or to save on heat problems all together push lights are good in vivs.
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www.regalreptiles.co.uk ![]() 2008 Corn Snakes Available (Aztec, Caramel, Charcol, Hypo, Hypo Stripe) 2 Male Royals Avaiable: 1 Proven Breeder, 1 66% Poss Het Pied Ready To Breed |
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