OK thanks. So what does Hypo mean? or is it just one of those hundreds of variants of a colour that women make up?

lol

no, as i said in my post

(typical men, can't read even when you do tell them)

HYPO is short for HYPOMELANISTIC

which means "reduced black"

so a GHOST corn.. is genetically a HYPO ANERY, and looks grey.. the black from the anery, has been affected by the reducing effect of the hypo, leaving a grey snake behind

there are currently over 250 different colours/pattens of corns!

N

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to me as someone who breeds..

hypo means i can make existing colours, look different..

Anery



hypo anery (GHOST)



Lavender



Hypo lavender

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wild type (also called Classic, Carolina, Normal etc..)



Hypo wild type (see in this one, the black has been lost from the brown colours, leaving reds behind..)

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Thanks again
those 250 patterns are fantastic. Its like a box of chocolates - you only know what your gonna get by checking the label.
I have no idea what colour I am gonna want for my 1st snake.

What age is best to take one on?

If you've never owned any reptile before, I'd personally suggest a "grown on" six-month-old or yearling snake. They're usually past the baby whippy-nippies by then, and they'll be developing their adult colours.

That's one thing you don't realise straight away either - 250 colour/pattern combinations, and a lot of the babies look different to what they'll look like as young adults! Yellow particularly takes a long time to develop - you can get a stark silver-and-black Anerythristic baby corn who might gradually develop yellow around the jawline and down the throat - or whose saddles might 'fade out' a bit to become browner - as the yellow comes in.

I have a gorgeous Charcoal-Anery het Bloodred female who started off pretty much silver and deep grey; now she's picking up fantastic lavender and pink tones in her saddles.

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- Ssthisto





Lizards: 2.1 E. macularius1.2 H. caudicinctus1.0 R. ciliatus0.3 A. fragilis0.0.1 T. gigas ssp1.1 T. merianae1.0 V. niloticus ittibittiusColubrids: 6.8.6 P. guttattus1.0 P. guttatus X E. climacophora1.1 P. o. rossalini1.0 P. o. lindheimeri0.1 E. anomala0.1 C. radiatus0.2 Lamprophis spp1.0 L. g. nigritus0.1 L. g. californiae1.0 H. n. nasicus1.0 P. m. melanoleucusBoids: 1.1 E. c. maurus 0.1 E. conicus10.14.4 P. regius1.1 A. maculosa
Member 1606 ... We HAD a three-bedroom house... Current lodgers: 1.0 E. c. maurus, 0.1 P. regius

cor, well that varies from snake to snake and keeper to keeper!

have you kept anything before?

baby corns are a good starting place, but for a first timer, they can be a bit zippy to hold.. older corns are normally more relaxed about being handled. corns are a good starting place, they are relatively cheap, hardy and tolerate captivity well.. once the basic set up is covered.

depends on budget too.. eg. cheapest corn = £20 dearest corn = £2000 the rarer the colour, the higher the cost.. classic or wild was the "first" then they found amel (no black) and anery (no red) and its basically all gone from there.

housing.. baby corn, can have something as simple as a large tupperware box, heat mat and thermostat.. adult.. they say 3ftX18X18 viv for the minimum. if you can go 4ft then do. if you put a baby into a big viv, it will almost always manage to escape, and some get stressed about all the space too.

i guess it is like a box of chocs. but you only find out the centre when you breed them!

N

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Very good - i like

Well the reason i was looking @ a hatchling is so it doesn't hurt if it bites me. It will be my first snake though Ive had the vivarium for it for about 2.5 years now lol

Hatchling bites are horendous !!! fingers off the lot











Only kidding i sort of enjoy the attention they give me when they tickle me biting me HEHE

By the way some good information here guys