Welcome to the forum!
Here are some bits of info for you, just to help clear things up a little. Bare in mind though that many people vary their husbandry of Beardies in subtle ways here and there, so you are very likely to see and hear different opinions on what is what. I've tried to give you a basic overview from which you yourself can build from.
What you need:
. Wooden holds heat well, plastic cleans better/faster/easier.
3 to 4 foot in length is prefferable. Your beardie is going to get to about 2foot STT (Snout to Tail) so anything smaller is going to be a little cramped. Whilst the beardie isn't this size as a youngster, it will grow quickly and could easily reach adult size in around 9 months. You'll be spending more by upgrading if you get a 2 foot viv to start with.
. A UVB tube light is ESSENTIAL! Without these rays, the beardie cannot absorb the calcium it eats. This will result in it suffering from what is known as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) and symptoms include wiggly limbs, missing limbs, disformaties in the general bone structure including the skull. The UVB tube light needs to be a minimum of 10% strength, the strengths are mentioned on the boxes. The light needs to be no further away than 12 inches from the lizard, else the rays dissipate and become weak.
A Heat source
. A heat mat is not much use, unless your room gets cold at night and you want to have an ambient temperature of around 65-70 fahrenheit. The main heat will come from a spot bulb, or a ceramic set up. This bulb would be at the warm end of the vivarium, and it would run using a thermostat set to 95 fahrenheit at the basking spot. The heat for the rest of the vivarium will run from this point, cooling as it gets towards the cooler end of the vivarium, to around 75-80 fahrenheit. This would run for approximately 12-14 hours of the day, and be off at night, where the thermostated heat mat would kick in, or, not kick in, depending on what your inhouse room temperatures are.
. Slate, kitchen roll, newspaper, or lino are ideal, especially for youngsters as these cannot be ingested. Sand is not the best choice as it can be ingested, yet some use it without any issues at all. Calci-sand is bad news though and should be avoided!
. Locusts, crickets, mealworms are great food for beardies when they are young. Waxworms will fatten them up, and can sometimes make them little porkers that eat nothing other than waxworms (similar to kids & McDonalds
). As the beardies grow older, vegetation rich in irons is good for them, rocket leaves are great, along with other various mustard greens. Beardies will, over time, move from live food to vegetation, and sometimes will move to eating vegetation altogether, taking livefood items only once in a while. Supplementation is a must for beardies also. 'Nutrobal' is a varied complex vitamin powder offering the beardie lots of the essentials it requires. Nutrobal should be dusted onto the food one day per week. Calcium is a must also, dusted onto the food every 5 days of 7, but remember that without the vitamin D3 from the UVB rays, it cannot utilise this calcium!
. Beardies tend to like the barron effect, with not too much going on. Offer a beardie a hide when too young and it may well spend so much of its time in there that it will not get the UVB it needs, nor come out to bask in the heat either. Some may never use it, some may live in it. It's 50/50 really. A few simple plants, and a basking spot as a rock or a log or piece of driftwood seems to work wonders for them.
........i think that that covers the thick of it...if not, ask, or read on adn someone will have pointed out what i have missed out i am sure of it!