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Old 24-09-2019, 08:50 PM
Egg
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 5
Default My silkback

I got my silkie a few months ago, they have problems shedding but I can’t seem to help the shed on his head. It’s been like this since I got him, I’m currently trying to fatten him up and get him properly hydrated as he was never given water where I got him from. Also he gets crickets/morio worms 3-4 times a week and misted kale every day, but when he poops in the bath it is always undigested and I’m very worried that he might not be getting enough nutrients.

Can anyone help me loosen this heavily compacted shed on his head and help me on how to help him digest his food??
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Old 24-09-2019, 10:15 PM
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Location: Telford, Midlands, UK
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You need to sort out the food your giving, its not enough variety.
Also shouldnt feed kale constantly, couple of times a week/often use but not constant.


There is a stickied thread about bearded dragons onhere with a basic list of veg you can offer.


Would suggest shed aid to help with stubborn shed and you also need to check the humidity and temps in the viv, as well as the UV (Your setup should be slightly different to a regular beardie setup, slightly lower UV and humidity needs to be kept under control)


Silkbacks are harder to look after than a regular beardie, have you kept bearded dragons before?
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Old 24-09-2019, 10:43 PM
Egg
Join Date: Sep 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azastral View Post
You need to sort out the food your giving, its not enough variety.
Also shouldnt feed kale constantly, couple of times a week/often use but not constant.


There is a stickied thread about bearded dragons onhere with a basic list of

Would suggest shed aid to help with stubborn shed and you also need to check the humidity and temps in the viv, as well as the UV (Your setup should be slightly different to a regular beardie setup, slightly lower UV and humidity needs to be kept under control)



Silkbacks are harder to look after than a regular beardie, have you kept bearded dragons before?
Yes I have raised beardies before but just leatherbacks, I have a 5.0 UVB and a 50 watt basking light. The warm side is at around 100 degrees f and colder side is at around 80 degrees f. He has baths 4 times a week to keep him hydrated and to help with the shedding. Thank you, I will get some shed aid to help.
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Old 24-09-2019, 10:49 PM
Egg
Join Date: Sep 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azastral View Post
You need to sort out the food your giving, its not enough variety.
Also shouldnt feed kale constantly, couple of times a week/often use but not constant.


There is a stickied thread about bearded dragons onhere with a basic list of veg you can offer.


Would suggest shed aid to help with stubborn shed and you also need to check the humidity and temps in the viv, as well as the UV (Your setup should be slightly different to a regular beardie setup, slightly lower UV and humidity needs to be kept under control)


Silkbacks are harder to look after than a regular beardie, have you kept bearded dragons before?
What other salad items would you recommend as I’ve tried butternut squash, bell beepers, frozen peas, small pieces of cucumber and the occasional banana ( a small amount once every month) and he doesn’t eat any of it apart from the kale. He will eat the kale and leave everything else
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Old 25-09-2019, 10:18 AM
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Location: Telford, Midlands, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nachosilkie View Post
Yes I have raised beardies before but just leatherbacks, I have a 5.0 UVB and a 50 watt basking light. The warm side is at around 100 degrees f and colder side is at around 80 degrees f. He has baths 4 times a week to keep him hydrated and to help with the shedding. Thank you, I will get some shed aid to help.
You really shouldnt be bathing a beardie, left alone a silkback which is then going to have even more issues with higher humidity, respiratory issues and other such stuff.... and it does NOT hydrate them, thats a myth and completely untrue.
The only time you should ever bath a beardie is on the advice from a vet (so perhaps constipation/impaction and trying to help it go to the toilet) or if it actually needs a wash, as in its sat in its own poop or something. Its an old husbandry technique thats about 15 years out of date, and the reason they thought to do it was because they believed the lizard could take water in through its vent...which is nonsense.

Lightly mist the viv, once every other day/daily. Ensure a proper mix of veg food and properly gutloaded and hydrated insects (so you feed them too rather than just keeping them on the bran they come in from the shops). That is more in line with the animals own biology and far more effective.


Who recommended a 5.0 UV tube to you? what size viv is it in and whats the distance from the bulb to basking? It sounds low, or youd have to have the bulb too close..
(editYou may find ArcadiaJohn useful on that particular area, he does reptile lighting for a living and knows his stuff inside out, Silkies do need a lower UV index due to the weakened skin/thinner layer of protection, but 5.0 is a very big drop.

Last edited by Azastral; 25-09-2019 at 10:23 AM..
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Old 25-09-2019, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Nachosilkie View Post
What other salad items would you recommend as Iíve tried butternut squash, bell beepers, frozen peas, small pieces of cucumber and the occasional banana ( a small amount once every month) and he doesnít eat any of it apart from the kale. He will eat the kale and leave everything else

I have already mentioned the stickied thread in this forum page, its all in there. The list is also one thats only got stuff on it thats very easy to find, as in most supermarkets stock it all.
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Old 25-09-2019, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nachosilkie View Post
Yes I have raised beardies before but just leatherbacks, I have a 5.0 UVB and a 50 watt basking light. The warm side is at around 100 degrees f and colder side is at around 80 degrees f He has baths 4 times a week to keep him hydrated and to help with the shedding. Thank you, I will get some shed aid to help.
Basking temp should be at least 110f, & UVB should be 10-12%.
.
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Old 25-09-2019, 02:28 PM
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The issues here are, that the skin is non-natural, not functioning as nature intended, lacking protection from all wavelengths of light, increased risk of harm from knocks and cuts, thin and is very poorly understood


We are at a level with this type of genetic misappropriation where we know many of the risks and issues, as you have seen having a non-natural skin means that they always have shedding issues, but we understand its outworking very little. Plus, this is only the outworking of a series of much more serious internal issues.


We know that you cannot influence a gene without having a series of other knock-on effects in the body. This usually has an impact on organ or brain function. We see issues not only in the skin but also in nutritional transfer and indeed even lifespan when compared to a wild-like dragon.


We know that they burn very easily indeed, so we have risks from both thermal burns from heat and serious and long-term sunburn from UV---- leading to God knows what risk in terms of Skin cancers long term,


On the other side of it, the animals 'needs', cycles and processes remain the same as the wild animal. They have just had their ability to 'obtain and use' their need altered in a very negative way.


In short, i cant help that much. All i can say is that MUCH more research must be done to understand the limitations of this mutation. UV provision must be lowered and I would suggest no more than UVI 1.50-2.00 until we know more. After all, we have an animal that nature designed to live in extreme UV energy-now with almost all of its 'sunscreen' removed.


I think for safeties sake we view them as Leos, rely on a bit more synthetic D3 and work with a vet in a frequent basis.


In terms of heat.... I honestly don't know how much an animal with no protection needs, nor how it will use this energy, nor how it will effect the animal if under or over supplied over time.


This is a huge concern for me.


We have taken the perfection of natural development, and turned it inside out in order to see 'pretty colours'....


for me, I class all of this types of mutation as being troublesome and group all of them together with Spider royals and enigma leos.
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