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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 12:43 AM
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Hi, i am no expert myself but my friend used to breed beardies but stopped about 2 or 3 years ago. Since then i have been fascinated by them and read pretty much everything on the internet about them! I got my first beardie 3 weeks ago and went through the same kind of thing as you the first week i had him.


First of all, what gorgeous colours.. You dont find colours like that in many pet shops in Manchester, I got mine from a private (licensed) breeder.

To me it sounds like your little juvenile is starting to shed, this is why he is rubbing his face.. Mine did the same thing. If he isnt afraid of being handled you should bathe him for a couple of minutes a day in luke warm water no deeper than his 'knees'. This will help him/her stay hydrated and it will also help the dead skin come away. Whatever you do, dont try and pull it off or rub it because this could damage the new skin underneath. If yours is anything like mine was it will still be a bit skitty and you wont be able to pick him up because you dont want to stress him. If thats the case then try and mist his back, tail and toes with bottled water a couple of times a day to help. Be carefull not to spray too much though because his viv will become too humid and this (over time) could lead to resperatory problems.. About 3 or 4 squirts 4 times a day is what i did.


Regarding the light.. You need a 10% UVb sitting between 10 and 12 inches from your beardie, this should be in the centre of your viv. The reason for this is that bearded dragons' have excellent protection on their eyes to stop too much UV light going into their eyes but because it comes from the sun in their natural habitat, this protection is at the top of their eyes and doesn't realy protect as well from light coming from the sides.. It sounds like you have this already though?

For heat i use a 75w light bulb bought from B&Q.. Apparently these work just as well as any other heat lamp bought from a pet shop! Be sure to get the clear ones because your beardie needs to get UVa from the light and the other colours block out some of this. You should have the heat lamp no closer than 10'' away from the highest point of your basking spot to avoid burning your beardie and it should be on through the day time with your arcadia tube for about 12/14 hours a day, this way your beardie will be able to get as much UVa+b as he needs. During the night, you shouldnt let your temps drop below 16C but during the summer most houses dont get that cold so he should be fine. I have a ceramic heat lamp linked up to a pulse thermostat set to 17C so if the temps do drop that low then it will kick in. I wouldnt have my heat lamp on as their parietal eye will more than likely be able to see it as it is photosensative and may stop him sleeping? Most bearded dragon breeders suggest you stay clear of heatmats/heated basking rocks as they can burn your beardie but at temps of 16-18C i doubt this will be the case.

I hope this has answerd your question and if anyone reads this and disagrees i'd like to know because at the end of the day, i am also new to owning a bearded dragon.. Can i give a few pointers on your set up though? I dont mean to sound condescending or as if i am picking out points but most experts advise against loose substrates at such a young age. If any of it gets swallowed your little dragon will have trouble digesting it and it may cause impaction leading to death. I use clean lino or you could use paper, kitchen towels etc.. When they get older it will be fine to use childrens play sand or repti sand but not just yet.. Another cause of impaction would be a basking area that isnt hot enough. For babys people reccomend 40 and 46C surface temp on the basking spot but for adults this can be between 36 and 43. The beardie should also have a cool end of the viv because they are cold blooded, they thermoregulate meaning they will switch from the warm end to the cool end to maintain a steady temperature. The cool end of your viv should be between 25-29C. This might be hard to get in a 3ft viv as it wasnt easy in my 4ft one so you may need to make some more air vents in the cool end. All temps should be measured with a digital thermometer or IR thermometer. I bought a digital themometer with a probe for about £15 and keep the probe in the cool end while the main unit is in the basking end. Both temps are checked twice a day and im constantly monitoring the warm end's temp. If you put a probe on your basking spot and the unit on the wall of your viv.. Once you get the temp right on your basking spot, check what the unit says on your wall and work out the difference between the two. This will give you a rough guide of the temp on your basking spot without having to measure it all the time.

Like i said, i am no expert so if someone reads this and disagrees then please say so. This is how i have my set up and my little 'baby' is thriving.. I'm sorry if this sounds like i am picking at holes in your set up but i'm not, I just know that there is a lot of different advice out there and i wanted to share what is working for me. Pet shops, even established ones, are notorious for giving bad advice. I've found that you can get a lot of sound advice on this forum from people who actually know what their talking about so stick with it and everything will be fine!
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemoon1502 View Post
Hi, i am no expert myself but my friend used to breed beardies but stopped about 2 or 3 years ago. Since then i have been fascinated by them and read pretty much everything on the internet about them! I got my first beardie 3 weeks ago and went through the same kind of thing as you the first week i had him.


First of all, what gorgeous colours.. You dont find colours like that in many pet shops in Manchester, I got mine from a private (licensed) breeder.

To me it sounds like your little juvenile is starting to shed, this is why he is rubbing his face.. Mine did the same thing. If he isnt afraid of being handled you should bathe him for a couple of minutes a day in luke warm water no deeper than his 'knees'. This will help him/her stay hydrated and it will also help the dead skin come away. Whatever you do, dont try and pull it off or rub it because this could damage the new skin underneath. If yours is anything like mine was it will still be a bit skitty and you wont be able to pick him up because you dont want to stress him. If thats the case then try and mist his back, tail and toes with bottled water a couple of times a day to help. Be carefull not to spray too much though because his viv will become too humid and this (over time) could lead to resperatory problems.. About 3 or 4 squirts 4 times a day is what i did.


Regarding the light.. You need a 10% UVb sitting between 10 and 12 inches from your beardie, this should be in the centre of your viv. The reason for this is that bearded dragons' have excellent protection on their eyes to stop too much UV light going into their eyes but because it comes from the sun in their natural habitat, this protection is at the top of their eyes and doesn't realy protect as well from light coming from the sides.. It sounds like you have this already though?

For heat i use a 75w light bulb bought from B&Q.. Apparently these work just as well as any other heat lamp bought from a pet shop! Be sure to get the clear ones because your beardie needs to get UVa from the light and the other colours block out some of this. You should have the heat lamp no closer than 10'' away from the highest point of your basking spot to avoid burning your beardie and it should be on through the day time with your arcadia tube for about 12/14 hours a day, this way your beardie will be able to get as much UVa+b as he needs. During the night, you shouldnt let your temps drop below 16C but during the summer most houses dont get that cold so he should be fine. I have a ceramic heat lamp linked up to a pulse thermostat set to 17C so if the temps do drop that low then it will kick in. I wouldnt have my heat lamp on as their parietal eye will more than likely be able to see it as it is photosensative and may stop him sleeping? Most bearded dragon breeders suggest you stay clear of heatmats/heated basking rocks as they can burn your beardie but at temps of 16-18C i doubt this will be the case.

I hope this has answerd your question and if anyone reads this and disagrees i'd like to know because at the end of the day, i am also new to owning a bearded dragon.. Can i give a few pointers on your set up though? I dont mean to sound condescending or as if i am picking out points but most experts advise against loose substrates at such a young age. If any of it gets swallowed your little dragon will have trouble digesting it and it may cause impaction leading to death. I use clean lino or you could use paper, kitchen towels etc.. When they get older it will be fine to use childrens play sand or repti sand but not just yet.. Another cause of impaction would be a basking area that isnt hot enough. For babys people reccomend 40 and 46C surface temp on the basking spot but for adults this can be between 36 and 43. The beardie should also have a cool end of the viv because they are cold blooded, they thermoregulate meaning they will switch from the warm end to the cool end to maintain a steady temperature. The cool end of your viv should be between 25-29C. This might be hard to get in a 3ft viv as it wasnt easy in my 4ft one so you may need to make some more air vents in the cool end. All temps should be measured with a digital thermometer or IR thermometer. I bought a digital themometer with a probe for about £15 and keep the probe in the cool end while the main unit is in the basking end. Both temps are checked twice a day and im constantly monitoring the warm end's temp. If you put a probe on your basking spot and the unit on the wall of your viv.. Once you get the temp right on your basking spot, check what the unit says on your wall and work out the difference between the two. This will give you a rough guide of the temp on your basking spot without having to measure it all the time.

Like i said, i am no expert so if someone reads this and disagrees then please say so. This is how i have my set up and my little 'baby' is thriving.. I'm sorry if this sounds like i am picking at holes in your set up but i'm not, I just know that there is a lot of different advice out there and i wanted to share what is working for me. Pet shops, even established ones, are notorious for giving bad advice. I've found that you can get a lot of sound advice on this forum from people who actually know what their talking about so stick with it and everything will be fine!
Not bad advice ! The one major thing I would is that you are spraying your Beardie in the viv it's a missive no no as you humidity (it's worded as if you spray him in the viv) if I got the wrong end of the stick I apologise. Personally I never bath beardies as they shed just fine without the aid of water. They get all nearly all their hydration from their veg/fruit/salad

As for the normal bulbs all they have to say on the box is reflective as these emit a "tighter" beam of light creating the best basking spot

As said on the whole not bad advice
__________________
FOR SALE IM LEAVING THE HOBBY, CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP


I can't believe how cheap I'm doing him for now !!!
4 gene male dwarf Retic £400
This prices include full setup!!!!!

dwarf retic
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...l#post12161744
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...l#post12161755
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 09:14 AM
Kumala's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemoon1502 View Post
Hi, i am no expert myself but my friend used to breed beardies but stopped about 2 or 3 years ago. Since then i have been fascinated by them and read pretty much everything on the internet about them! I got my first beardie 3 weeks ago and went through the same kind of thing as you the first week i had him.


First of all, what gorgeous colours.. You dont find colours like that in many pet shops in Manchester, I got mine from a private (licensed) breeder.

To me it sounds like your little juvenile is starting to shed, this is why he is rubbing his face.. Mine did the same thing. If he isnt afraid of being handled you should bathe him for a couple of minutes a day in luke warm water no deeper than his 'knees'. This will help him/her stay hydrated and it will also help the dead skin come away. Whatever you do, dont try and pull it off or rub it because this could damage the new skin underneath. If yours is anything like mine was it will still be a bit skitty and you wont be able to pick him up because you dont want to stress him. If thats the case then try and mist his back, tail and toes with bottled water a couple of times a day to help. Be carefull not to spray too much though because his viv will become too humid and this (over time) could lead to resperatory problems.. About 3 or 4 squirts 4 times a day is what i did.


Regarding the light.. You need a 10% UVb sitting between 10 and 12 inches from your beardie, this should be in the centre of your viv. The reason for this is that bearded dragons' have excellent protection on their eyes to stop too much UV light going into their eyes but because it comes from the sun in their natural habitat, this protection is at the top of their eyes and doesn't realy protect as well from light coming from the sides.. It sounds like you have this already though?

For heat i use a 75w light bulb bought from B&Q.. Apparently these work just as well as any other heat lamp bought from a pet shop! Be sure to get the clear ones because your beardie needs to get UVa from the light and the other colours block out some of this. You should have the heat lamp no closer than 10'' away from the highest point of your basking spot to avoid burning your beardie and it should be on through the day time with your arcadia tube for about 12/14 hours a day, this way your beardie will be able to get as much UVa+b as he needs. During the night, you shouldnt let your temps drop below 16C but during the summer most houses dont get that cold so he should be fine. I have a ceramic heat lamp linked up to a pulse thermostat set to 17C so if the temps do drop that low then it will kick in. I wouldnt have my heat lamp on as their parietal eye will more than likely be able to see it as it is photosensative and may stop him sleeping? Most bearded dragon breeders suggest you stay clear of heatmats/heated basking rocks as they can burn your beardie but at temps of 16-18C i doubt this will be the case.

I hope this has answerd your question and if anyone reads this and disagrees i'd like to know because at the end of the day, i am also new to owning a bearded dragon.. Can i give a few pointers on your set up though? I dont mean to sound condescending or as if i am picking out points but most experts advise against loose substrates at such a young age. If any of it gets swallowed your little dragon will have trouble digesting it and it may cause impaction leading to death. I use clean lino or you could use paper, kitchen towels etc.. When they get older it will be fine to use childrens play sand or repti sand but not just yet.. Another cause of impaction would be a basking area that isnt hot enough. For babys people reccomend 40 and 46C surface temp on the basking spot but for adults this can be between 36 and 43. The beardie should also have a cool end of the viv because they are cold blooded, they thermoregulate meaning they will switch from the warm end to the cool end to maintain a steady temperature. The cool end of your viv should be between 25-29C. This might be hard to get in a 3ft viv as it wasnt easy in my 4ft one so you may need to make some more air vents in the cool end. All temps should be measured with a digital thermometer or IR thermometer. I bought a digital themometer with a probe for about £15 and keep the probe in the cool end while the main unit is in the basking end. Both temps are checked twice a day and im constantly monitoring the warm end's temp. If you put a probe on your basking spot and the unit on the wall of your viv.. Once you get the temp right on your basking spot, check what the unit says on your wall and work out the difference between the two. This will give you a rough guide of the temp on your basking spot without having to measure it all the time.

Like i said, i am no expert so if someone reads this and disagrees then please say so. This is how i have my set up and my little 'baby' is thriving.. I'm sorry if this sounds like i am picking at holes in your set up but i'm not, I just know that there is a lot of different advice out there and i wanted to share what is working for me. Pet shops, even established ones, are notorious for giving bad advice. I've found that you can get a lot of sound advice on this forum from people who actually know what their talking about so stick with it and everything will be fine!
Thanks for this.
I checked the temperatures again. This time placing a probe on the log where he lies. I've now set it to 42c. But by reducing the temp for the heat bulb (100w) the ambient temp (sensors in middle of tank about 1" from surface) are now showing 80f, is this okay?

He is eating well and looks well. This morning we gave him basil leaves and spring greens. He ate 10 of the 12 mealworms and about 3/4 mouthfuls of greens.

He is skittish. Although we can put our hand in the tank if I get too close he darts away. He doesn't display any aggressive or stressed out behaviour, just moves away quickly.
I guess this takes time and trust/a bond needs to be established. It is only 1 week. I did manage to pick him up yesterday after a little scuttle but held him on my hand vertically inside the viv and gently rubbed his back with my thumb. He seemed comfy and appeared relaxed for about 2 mins then he just walked off back to his log.

I have to say I didn't realise looking after a juvenile beardie could be so demanding. Lol. Knowing what's right and wrong, are the temps right, will he be tame, has he eaten, has he poo'd, does he look dehydrated, do we beed a night light, etc..
He looks comfortable enough so as long as the temps are right, he's pooing, eating the right stuff etc I think he'll be okay. You can only do so much before you get information overload and end up insane.

Here's his viv set up...

There is a digital temp sensor in the middle (80-85f)
Temp sensor on log also which reads 42c
Heat bulb is 100w wired to a thermostat. (sensors is in middle of tank on floor)
UV tube is 2' and covers the 2/3rds of the tank up the hot end
He also has 3 bowls. 1 for mealworms, 1 for water, 1 for greens. Every other day we feed crickets or locusts. And the odd silk worm grubs every other day (white pussy ones about 4/5 a week)
We won't bath him a) he's too skittish to pick up b) were told it "can" cause respiratory illness.
I think tonight I'll set the lights to all go off and check temp before bed and in morning (07.00) to make sure they stay above 60f




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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 09:42 AM
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Breakfast time. We put 12 mealworms in his bowl, he ate them in one go so we put another 10 in and then he ate all them, he's sat by his bowl as though he wants more but then decided he'd eat the greens. I think he's feeding well

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fe_CP...e_gdata_player


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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 04:08 PM
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Wow he loves the meal worms doesnt he! Your temps seem to be pretty much bob on, he will go onto his basking spot to warm up and also 80F is a good temp for your cool end of the viv. . Your UV is big enough for the viv although when he reaches 12-18 months i'd consider getting a 4ft viv and min 3ft tube.

As a juvenile he should be eating about 75% live food and 25% veggies (adults 25% live 75% veggies) so feed him live food daily as he needs this goodness to help him grow. Try to keep meal worm as a treat for him as they have a high fat content and not a great deal of goodness, beardies love them like children do sweets! Crickets and locusts have all the goodness he needs if dusted with nutrobal or some other mutli vitamine/calcium (nutrobal is about £5 for a 50g tub, 1/4 of a tea spoon will last for about 4 feeds so it will last a long time!) Live food should be given 2-3 times a day, as many as he can eat in 10mins with his last feed no less than 2 hrs before lights go off so then he has time to digest it otherwise it will rot in his stomach. Check his viv at night for any uneaten crickets as they can stress him and/or bite him at night. Check out this link for some realy good advice/ideas on food and nutircional content for beardies.. Also, i'd definately remove the substate and put kitchen roll/paper/lino down. If he swallows some of the wood he will have a serious problem with it, kitchen roll/lino/paper is also easier to clean and gives crickets less places to hide. Its ashame because your viv looks really good with the wood chips down but remember, they are desert animals. Can i ask, how far is your heat lamp from the highest point of his log?

He seems to of settled quite well, mine wouldnt eat if i was watching him, this went on for about a week.. A lot dont eat at all for the first week or 2 so you are definately doing things right for him to let you video him eating his meal worms!Give him time to settle in, it was 2 weeks before i picked mine up, most people advise not to chase them as youngsters because it can stress them so if he comes to you then thats great news and it is a sign that you are doing things right, if not just be patient as he will get to know you from you going in his viv to spot clean/water and feed him.. The good news is that all you need now is just a few minor adjustments and then you will be able to relax and enjoy him!
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 04:15 PM
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Thanks for great advice

The heat lamp is about 4" from the log. I've noticed he spends most time just beside the "heat spot" but not sure how I can raise the light, I guess it's a case of lowering the basking spot?
Even now with the temp set right for his basking spot (41c) the temp in the middle (ambient) is 28/29c which I believe is about right.




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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 05:00 PM
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Yes your temps are pretty much spot on, now the challenge is to maintain the temps you have but with the heat lamp further away to avoid burning him. 4 inches is very close and that is more than likely why he is lying next to his branch and not on it. Most experts say 10-12 inches is perfect becasue he will get the heat but will avoid getting burnt. I have a rock with a flat bottom (so crickets cant hide underneath) the rock holds the heat really well and he loves it! I know the innital set up is quiet confusing and there is loads of different advice on offer but be patient and stick with it, you will get good advice on RFUK that can be trusted and then once you have your set up correct it should be fairly low maintenence in comparrison to other reptiles.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradleybradleyc View Post
Not bad advice ! The one major thing I would is that you are spraying your Beardie in the viv it's a missive no no as you humidity (it's worded as if you spray him in the viv) if I got the wrong end of the stick I apologise. Personally I never bath beardies as they shed just fine without the aid of water. They get all nearly all their hydration from their veg/fruit/salad

As for the normal bulbs all they have to say on the box is reflective as these emit a "tighter" beam of light creating the best basking spot

As said on the whole not bad advice

Thanks Bradley, yes i have been misting him once a day with about 4 squirts of water whilst still inside his viv.. I dont have a water dish in their though so i figured that doing this (or 3-4 times a day when he's shedding) would create very little humidity (about the same amount as having a water dish perminently in with him would create) Taking him out to mist him would of been stressful for him when i wasnt handling him but now i can hold him i will get him out when I mist him in future. How would you reccomend I hydrate my next beardie (when i get him/her) for the first week or 2 while he/she gets used to their surroundings? It just goes to show that i have been reading up on beardies for years before getting one so then i can provide the best care and I can still get something wrong lol
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Old 17-09-2012, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemoon1502 View Post
Thanks Bradley, yes i have been misting him once a day with about 4 squirts of water whilst still inside his viv.. I dont have a water dish in their though so i figured that doing this (or 3-4 times a day when he's shedding) would create very little humidity (about the same amount as having a water dish perminently in with him would create) Taking him out to mist him would of been stressful for him when i wasnt handling him but now i can hold him i will get him out when I mist him in future. How would you reccomend I hydrate my next beardie (when i get him/her) for the first week or 2 while he/she gets used to their surroundings? It just goes to show that i have been reading up on beardies for years before getting one so then i can provide the best care and I can still get something wrong lol
How did you start with the handling. Ours is still skittish (1 week at home) and even flinches if you move in front of the tank too quickly. He will let you move around in his tank but if you get too close he will move away. Thanks


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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 17-09-2012, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bluemoon1502 View Post
Thanks Bradley, yes i have been misting him once a day with about 4 squirts of water whilst still inside his viv.. I dont have a water dish in their though so i figured that doing this (or 3-4 times a day when he's shedding) would create very little humidity (about the same amount as having a water dish perminently in with him would create) Taking him out to mist him would of been stressful for him when i wasnt handling him but now i can hold him i will get him out when I mist him in future. How would you reccomend I hydrate my next beardie (when i get him/her) for the first week or 2 while he/she gets used to their surroundings? It just goes to show that i have been reading up on beardies for years before getting one so then i can provide the best care and I can still get something wrong lol
Don't be hard on yourself matey everyone learns all the time that's what this forum is about, evolving us as keepers (and showing off our reps lol) there's a lot of conflicting stuff out there

I dont bathe or mist my beardies, as they don't need water to shed in 99.9% of cases, they will get all the hydration they need out of livefood and there fresh veg/fruit/salad ( I spray this before it goes in the viv for extra water) I just let them sort their own shed out, obv if your Beardie is very de hydrated use blue poweraid yep that's right blue poweraid 10% and 90% water it full of electrolytes which is very hydrating.

As I say this works for me but never must inside a viv humidity can cause RIs and other health problems. This works for me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kumala View Post
How did you start with the handling. Ours is still skittish (1 week at home) and even flinches if you move in front of the tank too quickly. He will let you move around in his tank but if you get too close he will move away. Thanks


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Ok after he settled in usually a week slow movements and buy some wax worms (this is the ONLY time I condone hand feeding) place one on your hand and hell come running beardies LOVE Waxworm like kids with sweets, then move the worm further up your are, you will become associated with food and they love food, remember your a big predictor to him you both need to establish trust,

The problem with hand feeding is a beardie is clever and lazy once the know they don't have to hunt their prey they won't because they know you will hand feed them,
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FOR SALE IM LEAVING THE HOBBY, CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP


I can't believe how cheap I'm doing him for now !!!
4 gene male dwarf Retic £400
This prices include full setup!!!!!

dwarf retic
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...l#post12161744
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...l#post12161755
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