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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 28-12-2012, 12:07 PM
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Sound advice......it's funny I was reading your build thread late last night.....looks amazing.

Will look deeper into the heading as not sure what you mean about pulse e.t.c lol it was a reptile shop within a fish shop that were going to sell me both boy and girl (of same age) which I have read would have given me major trouble with the male sexually maturing faster than the female!

Back to the research! I'm just concerned and don't get how you can maintain a temp from a bulb

As for tiles what sort of tiles so I get? I thought calcium sand was the way to go?
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 28-12-2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justi View Post
Sound advice......it's funny I was reading your build thread late last night.....looks amazing.

Will look deeper into the heading as not sure what you mean about pulse e.t.c lol it was a reptile shop within a fish shop that were going to sell me both boy and girl (of same age) which I have read would have given me major trouble with the male sexually maturing faster than the female!

Back to the research! I'm just concerned and don't get how you can maintain a temp from a bulb

As for tiles what sort of tiles so I get? I thought calcium sand was the way to go?
Haha, cheers pal. Ok a dimming stat simply dims the light source and a pulse stat rapidly pulses it on/off, great for ceramics but makes a light bulb flicker, it'll do everyone's head in, BD included! It's not difficult once you get the hang of it. Buy your setup online and get it all setup for a few days so you can be sure all is spot on, put down a deposit on the BD so its yours and don't pick it up until you're sure the setups correct. Basically a 60w heat source down one end shining down on a basking spot of 105-115f, this will then create a gradient down in to your cool end so your BD can choose where to place himself in the viv to warm up or cool down. The basking spot is the most important. Too hot and it won't be used properly, not hot enough and he won't be able to digest food properly. The other temps then aren't set in stone, your cool end can in theory be zero degrees if there is a steady gradient all the way down, as long as it isn't too warm then he'll have somewhere to efficiently cool. It's easy when you know how and you'll get a much better understand of it when you actually do it so I'd go ahead and order the kit ASAP so you can get it sorted.

Calci sand is most definitely not the way to go I'm afraid. It contains calcium strangely enough! There's a good chance a BD will be attracted to the calcium and eat it, or miss live food and get a mouthful of sand by mistake. If your husbandry is ever so slightly off, temps are too cool, BD dehydrated then ingesting sand could be fatal. It basically isn't digested and causes a blockage, your BD can then not pass anything and will need vet treatment or die. This is why I wouldn't recommend loose substrate until you know what you're doing if at all. Any tiles will do, although I'd recommend rough ones or he'll have trouble with grip, I believe slate tiles are a good choice. If I'm honest I've never used tiles however I know that they are a great substrate, its obvious. People also use Lino and I would agree it is a great choice however I've heard it can give off dodgy fumes at high temps. I haven't used this either so I'm not 100% on this but any doubt means I wouldn't recommend it. Plus tiles look better. Cut them to size and then either grout them in as you would with a normal tiled floor or just place them in and sprinkle child's play sand in to the gaps. Minimal particle ingestion won't be an issue its large clumps/mouthfuls of sand you need to worry about which won't happen with sand in gaps like this.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 28-12-2012, 08:00 PM
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So many people tell me different things its starting to piss me off.....just looking for the best setup for my new dragon....went to buy the viv today 3 staff members all told me different things confusing me and they did not have the viv in stock!

Please tell me ideal lighting and do people use T5 or T8's????
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 28-12-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justi View Post
So many people tell me different things its starting to piss me off.....just looking for the best setup for my new dragon....went to buy the viv today 3 staff members all told me different things confusing me and they did not have the viv in stock!

Please tell me ideal lighting and do people use T5 or T8's????
4x2x2 viv minimum.. T5, T8, T12 is just the thickness of the tube. Whats more important is to get the correct %age of UV and a decent reflector so then all the Uv light is focussed into your viv where the beardie will be. My advice to anyone buying a new UV is to get an arcadia 12% t5 slimline set up. You get UV tube, starter and reflector all in one package. It works out about the same as buying it all seperately but you get one of the best UV tubes on the market
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 28-12-2012, 10:14 PM
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I got that but the T8 version now I want to take back and get the T5! I was also sold a 150w bulb which by the sounds of it is a bit of a joke??????
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Old 28-12-2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justi View Post
Sound advice......it's funny I was reading your build thread late last night.....looks amazing.

Will look deeper into the heading as not sure what you mean about pulse e.t.c lol it was a reptile shop within a fish shop that were going to sell me both boy and girl (of same age) which I have read would have given me major trouble with the male sexually maturing faster than the female!

Back to the research! I'm just concerned and don't get how you can maintain a temp from a bulb

As for tiles what sort of tiles so I get? I thought calcium sand was the way to go?
Hi ummmmmmm how do I start a thread from an iPod
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 29-12-2012, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemoon1502 View Post
4x2x2 viv minimum.. T5, T8, T12 is just the thickness of the tube. Whats more important is to get the correct %age of UV and a decent reflector so then all the Uv light is focussed into your viv where the beardie will be. My advice to anyone buying a new UV is to get an arcadia 12% t5 slimline set up. You get UV tube, starter and reflector all in one package. It works out about the same as buying it all seperately but you get one of the best UV tubes on the market
As blue has said go for the 4x2x2 online and get the Arcadia T5. I have replied to your PM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 31-12-2012, 04:16 PM
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right, temp falls down to 8 deg C where the Viv is going to be placed at night so I am going to have a basking light on a dimmer for heat. When lights go out and its dark I will have a ceramic heater on a pulse kicking in to stop the temp dropping so much!

1) What watt ceramic heater do I need for a 4x2x2 just to stop the temp in the Viv falling over night?

2) Where does the dimmer thermostat go.......as close to the basking area as possible to make sure that is the temp that is spot on?

3) Where does the pulse thermostate go to regulate the temp at night.....at the hot or cool end?

4) is this
HTML Code:
http://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/reptile-supplies/reptile-heating-equipment-414/thermostats-555/habistat-twin-channel-thermostat-26740.html
a DIMMER, PULSE, or ON/OFF

Last edited by Justi; 31-12-2012 at 04:21 PM..
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Old 31-12-2012, 07:04 PM
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anyone?
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:00 AM
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Hellllllllloooooooo............?
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