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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 17-02-2013, 05:41 PM
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The good thing is that he never done a runner as you opened the glass door.

You could possibly introduce a female of the same age but you may need to separate as they get older.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 17-02-2013, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by djultimate View Post
Well he was sat near the basking spot this morning, so i carefully slid the door open and attempted to stroke his back, he then darted back to the cool end lol.... more time needed i think.

I was thinking about getting him a friend , whilst there small so they grow up together, is this a good or bad idea ?
Yeah just keep trying.

He doesn't need a friend, beardies are solitary and only come together to mate. Male/male results in fighting, and other combination results in dominance from one and the other being unhappy/not getting basking spots/not getting enough food... etc.

Just keep doing what you're doing. Try and stroke him every now and then, since he's scared of that already put your hand in the viv near him and see how he reacts to it.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 21-02-2013, 04:51 PM
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Remove anything that allows him to hide, young beardies tend to hide instead of basking if they have a choice, depending on ages id take anything from the viv that he can hide under instead of basking and only replacing it when he gets bigger, smaller beardies do better with a higher basking temp, close to 110f mark, older dragons can have a lower basking temp then this, they are bigger and hold heat more efficiently they can be dropped to 100-105f.

I would not recommend another dragon unless the one u have is a female, and introduce another female not a male, 2x males is a no no and even females can be very aggressive so its not always a good idea!

Last edited by RLS; 21-02-2013 at 04:54 PM..
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 21-02-2013, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLS View Post
Remove anything that allows him to hide, young beardies tend to hide instead of basking if they have a choice, depending on ages id take anything from the viv that he can hide under instead of basking and only replacing it when he gets bigger, smaller beardies do better with a higher basking temp, close to 110f mark, older dragons can have a lower basking temp then this, they are bigger and hold heat more efficiently they can be dropped to 100-105f.

I would not recommend another dragon unless the one u have is a female, and introduce another female not a male, 2x males is a no no and even females can be very aggressive so its not always a good idea!
I have removed both plants, theres a log in there under the basking lamp, which ive left in, he can hide under it, put he's in plain site at all times.

After taking the plant out, i tired to stroke him to which he flared his beard up and opened his mouth like he was trying to his.
I left him to it at that point, starting to think he will never be friendly lol.
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Old 21-02-2013, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by djultimate View Post
I have removed both plants, theres a log in there under the basking lamp, which ive left in, he can hide under it, put he's in plain site at all times.

After taking the plant out, i tired to stroke him to which he flared his beard up and opened his mouth like he was trying to his.
I left him to it at that point, starting to think he will never be friendly lol.
Patience is the key, my female has been a bit 'weird' today. Chucked in a load of locusts and she wasn't really interested but now she is just on her log basking.

Have to agree with some of the other posters, removing the hiding spots is a good start as he will have no choice but to be in the open.
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Siamese Fighting fish/Betta ( Bertie)
Whippet cross Staffordshire bull terrier ( Brind)
Green Horned Frog (Norman)
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 21-02-2013, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djultimate View Post
I have removed both plants, theres a log in there under the basking lamp, which ive left in, he can hide under it, put he's in plain site at all times.

After taking the plant out, i tired to stroke him to which he flared his beard up and opened his mouth like he was trying to his.
I left him to it at that point, starting to think he will never be friendly lol.
Brill, you don't want him hiding after a heavy meal of crickets on the cold side of his viv.

Baby beardies tend to be scatty even adults can be when you first approach them to be picked up, take your time, i find beardies tend not to like stroking much, but stroking his beard against his neck can have a calming effect, as if your telling him not to get pissy with you, one of my males took to this, but hates having his back stroked :P (also, avoid approaching over head or stroking there head, beardies actually have a 3rd light sensitive eye on the top of there heads, it doesn't see but is sensitive to light/shadows, which would allow them to detect a bird flying over head let say, this can startle them, especially young beardies, some just cock there head lol). Lay your hand in and just let him move around you, maybe try feeding him something by hand? veg or wax worm maybe held in an open hand so he has to climb on your hand to grab it (their bite is not so bad sharp teeth but with a flat hand they have nothing to bite, and tend just to use there tongue). approach him when he is on the cooler side of his enclosure, or early in the morning when he hasn't had time to warm up yet, he will be much less.....fast The more mature dragons are the more they seem to tame even without a great deal of handling. Please do not get discouraged!!! Good luck
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Old 22-02-2013, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLS View Post
Brill, you don't want him hiding after a heavy meal of crickets on the cold side of his viv.

Baby beardies tend to be scatty even adults can be when you first approach them to be picked up, take your time, i find beardies tend not to like stroking much, but stroking his beard against his neck can have a calming effect, as if your telling him not to get pissy with you, one of my males took to this, but hates having his back stroked :P (also, avoid approaching over head or stroking there head, beardies actually have a 3rd light sensitive eye on the top of there heads, it doesn't see but is sensitive to light/shadows, which would allow them to detect a bird flying over head let say, this can startle them, especially young beardies, some just cock there head lol). Lay your hand in and just let him move around you, maybe try feeding him something by hand? veg or wax worm maybe held in an open hand so he has to climb on your hand to grab it (their bite is not so bad sharp teeth but with a flat hand they have nothing to bite, and tend just to use there tongue). approach him when he is on the cooler side of his enclosure, or early in the morning when he hasn't had time to warm up yet, he will be much less.....fast The more mature dragons are the more they seem to tame even without a great deal of handling. Please do not get discouraged!!! Good luck
Good advice, i never knew about the light sensitive eye, mine is twitchy when i stroke the top of Queenies head.
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2 Bearded dragons ( Jaffa and Queenie)
Lime Green Preying Mantis ( Gretna) RIP
Siamese Fighting fish/Betta ( Bertie)
Whippet cross Staffordshire bull terrier ( Brind)
Green Horned Frog (Norman)
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 22-02-2013, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by paul3col View Post
The good thing is that he never done a runner as you opened the glass door.

You could possibly introduce a female of the same age but you may need to separate as they get older.
Please don't do this. Beardies should never, under any circumstances, be housed together. Males have been known to tear limbs of one another, same with females, and if you keep a male in with a female, she will be constantly harrased and mated, which could result in her becoming eggbound and very ill.

It's completely normal for young hatchlings to hide. They're protecting themselves from predators. We have some young beardies at the pet shop I work for and more often than not they're sheltered away, although I do tend to manually move them into their basking spots whilst I feed. Just take it day by day. Reptiles can take months to settle in so you'll need to be patient. Once he/she is a little bigger and sees you as less of a threat and more as the person who gives him/her tasty treats, they'll be more inclined to approach you.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 23-02-2013, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ChazzieJo View Post
Please don't do this. Beardies should never, under any circumstances, be housed together. Males have been known to tear limbs of one another, same with females, and if you keep a male in with a female, she will be constantly harrased and mated, which could result in her becoming eggbound and very ill.

It's completely normal for young hatchlings to hide. They're protecting themselves from predators. We have some young beardies at the pet shop I work for and more often than not they're sheltered away, although I do tend to manually move them into their basking spots whilst I feed. Just take it day by day. Reptiles can take months to settle in so you'll need to be patient. Once he/she is a little bigger and sees you as less of a threat and more as the person who gives him/her tasty treats, they'll be more inclined to approach you.
Thanks for the advice.
I went to get some crickets today, and the owner of the pet store i got my beardie asked how i was getting on.
I explained the shyness and how he keeps opening his mouth and flareing when ever i try to stroke him or handle him, he said to try and pick him up at least every other day, regardless if he has a hissy fit or tried to nip me, is this correct ?

He was at the glass today, so i tried to pick him up, he opened his mouth a few times, but i managed to pick him up and he was fine in my hand, didnt try and bite me, or do a runner.

Just come back and he's being mardy again lol
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 25-02-2013, 12:19 PM
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Tbh if it was my Beardie, yeah, I would continue handling, as long as he/she wasn't getting too stressed. It'll definitely help him/her get used to you.
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"Animals are such agreeable friends - they ask no questions, they pass no criticisms."
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