Royal python setup advice - Reptile Forums

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2018, 12:34 AM
Egg
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 4
Default Royal python setup advice

Hello!

I've recently acquired a royal python. This guy is only very young. Problem is I'm not happy with his setup. The research I did suggested using a UTH or ceramic to heat the enclosure, and the recommended temps. So I went to the store and got a setup and python, which according to my basic research was okay. This setup consists of an 80cm faunarium, aspen, 2 hides, heat mat, thermostat, water dish and digital hygrometer/thermometer.
I also bought a temp gun. This was bought with a view to upgrade later to a larger habitat. My hot spot sits at about 32.5 degrees celsius and my humidity at least 50%. My ambients and cool side however are too low, maybe around 21-23 degrees c. None of the care sheets I read initially mentioned that a heat pad alone would not raise ambient temps. I now know better, although most information conflicts and argues with other info which is incredibly confusing if you're new to the hobby!

Out of anxiety for my snake's wellbeing I bought a second heat pad to provide more of a gradient. This is also on a thermostat with a separate digital thermometer and set to about 28.5 degrees in the middle of the enclosure. This has helped slightly, but not enough.

He took his first mouse without issue (I know I'll have to convert to rats,) his second is currently sat in with him, he did have his mouth around it so waiting to see if it consumed overnight. I'm still not happy with his setup and I want to get a 3ft viv to hopefully house him in the long term with plenty of clutter so he doesn't get stressed, with an appropriate heating arrangement. I'm not sure where or what parts to use (I'm uk based) so was hoping for a list of items which I could order for delivery and setup pretty easily (I'm not the best at DIY.) because I'm still incredibly worried about my snake and want to get it just right for him. Thanks in advance

Amy
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2018, 08:08 AM
Hatchling
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 24
Default Royal Python

I'm sure there is a comprehensive care sheet on the forum. From what I've read I understand many types of Python and Boa do need warm ambient temperatures to minimise the risk of respiratory infections.
In general a suitably sized vivarium with a thermostatically controlled and guarded ceramic heater, plenty of hiding places, substrate and large water bowl should do the job.
In the short term you could use a conventional spot lamp in an anglepoise type light fitting over the faunarium to provide a local increase in ambient temperature in part of the enclosure.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2018, 08:22 AM
Premier Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Stevenage, UK
Posts: 7,612
Default

Have a read of the care sheet at the top of the forum http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...l-pythons.html

Buy yourself a 4' vivarium, ideally 48" x 21" x 21" and decorate it with lots of cover, hides, branches, etc and place the snake it that rather than messing about with faunariums. Place a well guarded ceramic at one end and use a pulse stat or dimmer stat to control it so it gives a 32c hot spot.
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Malc



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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2018, 09:40 PM
Egg
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 14
Smile Hi

Hi Rio,
Just wanted to say Hi as my family are also newbie Python owners, we got Delta our new snake a couple of weeks ago. Cant give you any advice as loads of people here know loads more than me but i can appreciate your worry.... At least your snake is feeding we have yet to get ours to take anything. Bought Delta from a great snake expert local to us who assures us not to worry so trying not to.... Anyway just wanted to say Hi as we also in the UK and seems as though we both learning at the same time !
Best Wishes
Matt
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2018, 11:04 PM
Egg
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 4
Default Update

Hello!
Thank you all for taking the time to reply- when I wrote this I sort of knew what the setup was that I was going for, I just wanted to make setup items I chose would be compatable e.g. ceramic fittings and appropriately sized guards. I have purchased and setup up a 3ft vivarium with ceramic heater on guard on a pulse stat. He has 5 hides. The hot spot is 32 degrees and the ambient 27. Did have some initial problems with humidity but a larger bowl, changing to coco husk substrate and several bowls of sphagnum moss are now holding it constant in mid to high 50s. He did refuse his most recent mouse on Monday- hopefully this is due to being moved, trying again at weekend. I hope he takes it because then I'll just be worrying still! Even though I know it's normal for them to reject food from time to time!
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:48 AM
Regular
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 123
Default

a 3ft viv is fine and will retain the heat a lot better than a faunarium.

We use a ceramic heater with our royal (bulb with a guard) and we also have a forest uv bulb, not strictly necessary but we believe it does benefit her.

Our humidity is usually kept at 60% and gets bumped up a bit when she is in blue and due to shed. A daily spray with a mister does the job. I also use orchid bark which is good at retaining moisture and is a doddle to clean.

They like plenty of cover so make the use of all the viv space. I have covered the back of my viv in plants - I use brass eyes to thread them through, stops them falling off and the cool side has a vine on the side panel that I've clipped in. She loves this as she can climb about but stay hidden if she wants to.

Plenty of hides - cork bark is great or the reptile caves. I have a hide in both the hot and cool end plus cork back at the back in the middle and a water bowl she can get in if she wants.

For feeding, rats are better than mice. I let the rat defrost at room temperature and then before feeding I warm it with a hairdyer (especially the head) so it is really warm - I often do this near the viv so the smell of the rat gets to the snake. generally she will be in a hide with just her nose poking out - rat goes near the entrance to the hide with tweezers and 99% of the time she grabs it straight away. I usually feed her about half an hour after the lights go off when she would be more active. If it doesn't get eaten then leave it and the snake might eat it overnight.

keep any handling to an absolute minimum or leave well alone until eating well.

hope this helps.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 18-01-2018, 10:58 PM
Egg
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 4
Default

Hi again, another update- he just pounded down a mouse and struck in about 20 seconds! I think everything should definitely be good with the setup because of that. So pleased he's eaten again for me and is back on it- I did scent the mouse with a multi so wonder if that helped! Thanks again to everyone for all the advice.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-2018, 09:24 PM
benjeeman's Avatar
Regular
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 98
Default

Hi Cegriffy,
Can I just ask how old and what size your snake is please?
I'm a newbie on here, just interested in how long I should leave my baby in her 9 litre RUB before moving her into something bigger with lots more decor, hides and vines on the walls etc....
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cegriffy View Post
a 3ft viv is fine and will retain the heat a lot better than a faunarium.

We use a ceramic heater with our royal (bulb with a guard) and we also have a forest uv bulb, not strictly necessary but we believe it does benefit her.

Our humidity is usually kept at 60% and gets bumped up a bit when she is in blue and due to shed. A daily spray with a mister does the job. I also use orchid bark which is good at retaining moisture and is a doddle to clean.

They like plenty of cover so make the use of all the viv space. I have covered the back of my viv in plants - I use brass eyes to thread them through, stops them falling off and the cool side has a vine on the side panel that I've clipped in. She loves this as she can climb about but stay hidden if she wants to.

Plenty of hides - cork bark is great or the reptile caves. I have a hide in both the hot and cool end plus cork back at the back in the middle and a water bowl she can get in if she wants.

For feeding, rats are better than mice. I let the rat defrost at room temperature and then before feeding I warm it with a hairdyer (especially the head) so it is really warm - I often do this near the viv so the smell of the rat gets to the snake. generally she will be in a hide with just her nose poking out - rat goes near the entrance to the hide with tweezers and 99% of the time she grabs it straight away. I usually feed her about half an hour after the lights go off when she would be more active. If it doesn't get eaten then leave it and the snake might eat it overnight.

keep any handling to an absolute minimum or leave well alone until eating well.

hope this helps.
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