Considering a hatching corn snake, advice on set up... - Page 2 - Reptile Forums

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2019, 02:58 PM
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Yes, exactly as Malc says - be guided by the snake to some extent. If you find the snake using all the available hides at different times, this suggests you've got it right. If you find it never goes to the one nearest the heat source, you've probably got it see too high, and vice versa.

Providing choice is key, so a range of accessible hides all the way along the heat gradient (whether that gradient is vertical, horizontal, or both) is the ideal way to set up an enclosure, in my view. It's not too hard to do for smaller snakes like corns that only need small hides.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2019, 04:53 PM
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I really appreciate all the replies, great info.

Ive been doing a lot of reading and research and watching lots of videos and it can be a bit confusing when it comes to heating, ive been seeing a lot about heat mats being the better option because they provide belly heat, Im concerned the radiator I have wont provide adequate belly heat, I mean for instance with a heat mat all id have to do is put a hide directly over it and when the snake uses it you know it's getting that optimal 88 degrees, where as with the radiator the heat would be coming from above, its also so low profile too its quite a distance from the actual ground where the snake would be under a hide.

But my house would be to cold to use the heat mat on its own, I would need additional heat to raise the ambient temps too.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2019, 05:21 PM
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Ceramics/radiators are superior to mats in every way.

I think the belly heat argument is completely spurious - what do you suppose happens in nature? The sun heats the earth, or the rocks, or whatever the snake is on, from above. An overhead heat source does the same, and as you rightly observe, heats the air and impacts the ambient temperature, something a mat can never do because they can only heat what they are in direct contact with.

Bottom line - you can successfully keep corns with either heat source, but if anything meets the needs of the animal better, it's the ceramic/radiator.

As for the corn not being able to get near enough to the heat source - that was partially addressed above by your own idea to have branches. But you can also side mount reptile radiators, they don't have to be on the ceiling of the viv.
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Old 10-05-2019, 06:41 PM
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OK lets try and give you an example.



Here is a picture I took of my normal female royal sitting on the hottest area in the vivarium. The shelf directly above the the ceramic heater reads 39c using an IR temp gun. The top of the cork shelter reads 36c, with the substrate reading 31c-33c at various points. The substrate at the cool side reads 26C

So I have a temperature gradient from 26C to 39C. No most people would say that the hot spot is too hot, but in order to get the substrate 8" below the heater at the idea temperature of 32C the surface of the shelf above the reflector reaches 39C. Again, she's only every basked on that spot once whilst gravid. She spends all day under the warm hide, and her skin surface temperature is 29C as measured with the gun. At night she becomes very active.

The point I'm trying to make is that the substrate gets warmed by the heater from above. The snake will sit on that substrate and absorb the heat. When the heat has been absorbed and the substrate drops a degree or so, the snake moves slightly to another exposed area of the substrate that is warm. It repeats this until its internal thermostat is triggered and it needs to move off, go hunt, look for a mate, or whatever. This is how it works in nature too !

The placement of mats has also been very misunderstood. They are not designed to be floor mounted and covered in substrate. They should really be placed above, or on a side or rear wall. They are designed to emit IR radiation that warms the reptile in the same way IR radiation from the sun does. The disadvantage is that mats do not warm the air, nor (to some degree) do they warm the substrate in this fashion. But I'm repeating what has already been written about the two forms of heating.
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Old 21-05-2019, 03:18 PM
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So I should be ordering my baby corn this Friday and im just making a few last minute preparations to the vivarium to make it secure, my viv comes with these vents:

https://www.google.com/search?q=vive...lbkZNUnkNHyxM:

Would a snake that size escape out of the slots for the wires? or should I just block them up to be safe?
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Old 21-05-2019, 04:15 PM
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I would say yes, a hatchling corn could get through those holes potentially. I would definitely block them up.

Are you going for a conventional wooden viv with sliding glass doors? One thing people often forget is a lock. They're pretty much essential because they make you make sure you've definitely shut the viv properly.
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Old 25-05-2019, 09:46 PM
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So Ive had a bit of a disaster today, my habistat reptile radiator doesn't seem to be working properly all of a sudden. The only thing different is I put a guard on it...this would hardly effect the heat would it? When I was running it without the guard I was getting temps in the mid to high 80s easily while on a pulse stat now it wont go above mid 70's and this is directly under it, their is heat from it just not near enough.

So now I'll probably switch to a regular ceramic bulb, any opinions on what's best?
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Old 26-05-2019, 12:51 AM
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Are you sure its the heater that's faulty and not the thermostat ?

Firstly remove the snake - place it in a tub with a tight fitting lid, with a few small holes in it (small enough so the snake can't get out)

To test the heater - power off the equipment, unplug / disconnect the heater from the thermostats output and plug it / connect it directly to the mains outlet from the wall or known good extension lead. If the heater gets hot then this proves the heater is good.

To test the thermostat - unplug / disconnect the heater from the thermostat and plug in a working table lamp. Connect the thermostat to a known working mains outlet and turn it on. If the output LED on the thermostat illuminates but the table lamp doesn't then you know the thermostat isn't outputting mains to the heater. Depending on the make / model of thermostat there may be a fuse in the connector to the heater. If not then it's a blown component in the thermostat and you need to replace the thermostat.

Its worth testing to save you replacing a heater that is otherwise working fine
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Old 26-05-2019, 07:52 AM
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thankfully i dont have the snake yet, its coming next week which gives me time to sort this out.

It wasnt plugged into the stat it was plugged directly into the mains and i couldnt get it to hit the required temp, as i said heat is coming through just not enough.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 26-05-2019, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benson1990 View Post
thankfully i dont have the snake yet, its coming next week which gives me time to sort this out.

It wasnt plugged into the stat it was plugged directly into the mains and i couldnt get it to hit the required temp, as i said heat is coming through just not enough.
In that case it does sound as if the heater is faulty. If its new it will still be under warranty so contact the supplier and request details on how to return it for exchange
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