Hognose feeding - Reptile Forums

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2019, 08:30 PM
Egg
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
Default Hognose feeding

Can anyone help.
I have 5 remaining hatchlings that just won't feed. I've tried many scents
Tuna, trout, salmon, sardine, hotdog, frog, boiled egg, quails egg, pinkie heads and braining.
Husbandry is correct the other 50 thrive in the same set ups.
Ive tried warmth, smaller pots, leaving them over night in a small tub with prey and still nothing.

Does anyone have any tips
Many thanks
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2019, 08:33 PM
Cthulhu slumbers's Avatar
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Location: Essex
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I have had exactly the same problems myself. What I ended up doing was buying a pinky pump and force feeding for a few weeks/months until they started eating on their own. Even then I still had 1 or 2 that wouldn't eat and just wasted away. Was horrible.
I will also say that you should try feeding live pinkies as that can often kick start them as well., but again, not pleasant.
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:34 PM
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reptiles-Pl...c=1&th=1&psc=1

there is a link for a pump should you decide to try that route
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:44 PM
Egg
Join Date: Mar 2019
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Yes I've ordered one just waiting for it to arrive. I detest it I had to force feed corn hatchlings many years ago it was never pleasant. Always seems to be the higher end hatchling too
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:50 PM
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Other alternative feeding options not mentioned.

Mouse tail, weaned rat tail, chick wing/thigh (plucked of most feather). These can be a little easier when assist/force feeding

These are methods I’ve worked on white lipped vipers and had success as well as recently baby spotted pythons
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:53 PM
Cthulhu slumbers's Avatar
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Fingers crossed for you. If you can get hold of live, give that a go first. Force feeding is tricky and awkward till you get the hang of it.
Hope it works

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Old 04-09-2019, 08:56 PM
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Good point. If feeding mouse tails etc, go cut end first, not the tip. That would cause the hairs on the tail to "catch" in the snakes throat

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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2019, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty198512e View Post
Can anyone help.
I have 5 remaining hatchlings that just won't feed. I've tried many scents
Tuna, trout, salmon, sardine, hotdog, frog, boiled egg, quails egg, pinkie heads and braining.
Husbandry is correct the other 50 thrive in the same set ups.
Ive tried warmth, smaller pots, leaving them over night in a small tub with prey and still nothing.

Does anyone have any tips
Many thanks





Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4j6FAf6XvrE


also have you tried the fishing lure frog scent stick ( this video shows the frog stick scent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqrH3nBEOVw ) , looks like a glue stick or you can buy frog scent that you can spray on them or drops. These are basically frogs that have been blended in a blender and water added to make the spray.


The Bioedge Frog Wand can be purchased from here £9.99:-



http://www.bioedgefishing.com/store/product/frog-wand


or here Amazon UK


https://www.amazon.co.uk/BioEdge-Mou.../dp/B001O6Z9WI


Also try getting some fresh salmon with the skin on and dice some up into small pinky sized strips with the skin on, get them on a few of them to start them if it fails buy some frozen frog legs for human consumption and try that (he shows in the video). I have never had to use frog scent but some are willing to die before eating anything that does not smell right. Once you get them started they should go onto scented mice then none scented.

Last edited by Purgatory; 05-09-2019 at 03:39 AM..
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2019, 09:22 AM
Super Citizen
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Devon
Posts: 707
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As above - definitely try assist feeding first. I found small mouse tail was perfect for a tiny corn hatchling, much easier than a pinky. Fat end first, apart from the lay of the hair, it also helps to open the mouth of the hatchie better .

There's something else you could try - in species that would naturally hibernate, some hatchlings do not feed till after hibernation. You could try cooling them down for about 3 weeks, then gradually warming them again and offering food. I know that some breeders in Czech Republic do this, and l guess it makes sense. At least the hatchies are not using up the energy they still have, if they are cooled. Might be worth looking into - as an option.

Another trick - if you have to resort to force feeding - is to dip the pinky in raw egg white, it makes it slip down much better.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2019, 07:27 PM
Egg
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the advice. Those wands look interesting they do a lot of flavours. I think I'll be making a trip to the tackle shop
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