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SORRY!! Royal Problem (another one)

660 views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  tigger79 
#1 ·
Bet people are sick of hearing about royals not eating, but i hav the same problem! She's a female and was 577g. She went into shed (wont eat wen in shed), then developed an RI. She was given antibiotics but still wont eat and now she's down to 493g in the space of 5wks. Ive tried rats, mice, chicks, scenting a rat with a chick and brained them all but to no avail. Is there anyone who can suggest something else? Im worried about her and think i might have to assist feed. Is there anyone who lives near me who might be able to help? ANY HELP WOULD BE REALLY APPRECIATED. Thanks in advance, Andrea
 
#2 ·
Bet people are sick of hearing about royals not eating, but i hav the same problem! She's a female and was 577g. She went into shed (wont eat wen in shed), then developed an RI. She was given antibiotics but still wont eat and now she's down to 493g in the space of 5wks. Ive tried rats, mice, chicks, scenting a rat with a chick and brained them all but to no avail. Is there anyone who can suggest something else? Im worried about her and think i might have to assist feed. Is there anyone who lives near me who might be able to help? ANY HELP WOULD BE REALLY APPRECIATED. Thanks in advance, Andrea
Yeah mine is doing exactly the same thing at the moment have you tried taking it out in the car. Ive done that but was on the way to vets so would of been like "yay car ride .... argh needles... i hate you" so prob stressed mine out more than helping. strangly enough aswell mine had had its shed then had a pinkie then hasn't ate for 4 weeks. have you tried warming the rat/mouse up a bit
 
#5 ·
oh god bummer erm thinking.... is there anything in the tank that could be adding to this RI for example dusty aspen (no this may sound silly but vet suggested it to me). If there isn't i would definatly start assisting their feeding. If you prefer not to do it your self can imagine your vet would show you and help. sorry that i haven't been much help and know what your going through as i'm fretting over mine
 
#6 ·
have you tried to defrost in water, and leave it wet, I have a royal that will not eat dry rodents, even from when they where on rat pups! Then you can stick the heat of the rat in some boiled water for a few seconds, let the drips go on some paper and offer her. The exteame heat difference should get her to go!
 
#7 ·
Ok my advice is my female royal went into a 9 month fast I did everything you did, but took me 9 months to find out she will only eat gerbils, and in the last 4 weeks alll she has eaten is Gerbils, theyre a bit more expensive, but there is a rumor to say royals do prefer Gerbils, whether tru or not mine does prefer Gerbils. Try it cant do no harm:2thumb:
 
#9 ·
Hi All. :)

Please do not take offence at what I am about to say now, as that is the last thing I want or need as I am only trying to help, having dealt with sick reptiles for many years. :(

Please, all of you that have posted here, try to make a point of reading other peoples posts asking questions as the answers can then usually be found to problems that you might one day stumble upon yourselves, and in that way your knowledge of the situation will be at hand if required and you could perhaps help others too. :) The information I am about to give you has been placed on these forums so many times, and in fact as recent as the last couple of days. :)

When a snake goes down with an RI, unless it came to you that way or is carrying a virus that has broken out due to stress, then you all need to look to your husbandry as no amount of antibiotics will cure your snake until you get it surroundings correct. A gradient of temperatures with in that species range from the recommended cool through to the hot end with at least two hides, one at the cool end and one at the hot end and if room one in the middle. Some snakes are allergic to some substrates, aspen being a well known one for causing RI'S, so if in doubt there, please use newspaper in order to see if it makes an difference.

Now to the antibiotics. These are good in that they kill off very nasty bacteria that makes us all ill, but in doing so they do a complete wipe out, and that means that they also kill off the good guys, in other words the good bacteria that our bodies rely on to keep us healthy, and that means our "gut flora" too, and without that we no longer have hunger pangs and so don't wish to eat. Just can't be bothered with it. The answer to this problem is that we need to now regain our gut flora as that is what makes tummies rumble and sends hunger messages to the brain. This comes in the form of probiotics which I am sure you have all heard of. :)

A long standing exotics Vet here in the UK owns Vetark, and that company makes "Reptoboost" and it is just what your snakes require to give their entire bodies a boost after having been poorly. At the same time it has the much required and needed probiotics to replace the removed gut flora and give your snakes back their appetite. Please see below.

Kind Regards,

Mo. :)


REPTOBOOST is a probiotic combination of bacteria, enzymes, electrolytes and vitamins. Its high palatability means it can be added to the drinking water making its use simple for all species of reptiles. It is also ideal for use by stomach tube in rehydrating reptiles which have become dehydrated.

REPTOBOOST contains:
· Lactobacillus with Streptococcus faecium which live for a short time in the gut, helping to stabilise the pH.
· Yeasts to provide a source of amino acids and vitamins.
· lipase, amylase, protease and cellulase.
· electrolytes to aid in maintaining adequate levels in reptiles with diarrhoea which lose electrolytes
and maltodextrins for sustained energy
It is only necessary for probiotics to live a short time to establish the right conditions. By their combined action the ingredients of AVIPRO help to create and maintain slightly acidic conditions in the gut to provide the correct background for the reptiles own flora to re-stabilise.

The electrolytes and dextrose incorporated into REPTOBOOST also contribute in a major way.

A very important aspect is the use by the veterinary surgeon in reptiles which are under treatment with antibacterials where the normal flora may be unbalanced and a bloom of inappropriate bacteria may occur causing perhaps haemorrhagic enteritis.

For support of stressed reptiles use 4g (one scoop) per 100ml of drinking water.
 
#10 ·
some of mine had ri a few years back thats when i got rid of aspen and now use either paper towel or newspaper
female wasn`t eating as she should but had a lg mouse today warmed up then dried with paper towel(warmed up in a bag the mice came in but didn`t realise still some cold ice water in bottom,mouse was warm to the touch when i dried it on paper towel and bang she had it)male albino struck 3 times then gave up as he does sometimes(think bino`s can be thick lol) so try him wk end
if not db`s get another one, mighjt try the car ride tho lol
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all your replies. Pasha is kept on newspaper and has done for roughly 6 mths. I think i caused the RI as when she was in shed her digi hygro was sayin 12%, so i started misting her twice daily to get it to 50-60%. But it was dropping rapidly. After a few days i got a dial hygro and it was reading 60%, so tried digi 1 in all the tanks and the highest reading we got was 17%. So digi 1 was knackered! Thus she started with RI. She's doin alot better just need to get her to eat. So thanks Maureen, im gonna go get her some reptoboost today. Pasha has 3 hides, warm end, middle and cool end. Thanks again for all your replies and im gonna try reptoboost for a week then try a wet rat. If not im gonna try a gerbil. THANKS AGAIN :2thumb:
 
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