Reptile Forums banner

8wk baby dragon only eating 2 crickets per day

735 views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  Azastral 
#1 ·
Hi all.. Sorry I'm a newbee and I'm sure it's nothing.. I got a beardie 3 days ago (8 wks old).. She's very calm.. Doesnt glass surf and seems to love sitting on my arms back and already on my head (I don't force it she's comes to glass and stares at me first thing on morning)... However...


The 3 days I had her she's had 5 crickets day one (hunt), 2 worms day 2 and currently 1 worm day 3...

I have fed her wax worms as day 2 she refused crickets locusts veg fruit and calci worms..... Didnt have wax worms before so not sure I've upset the diet yet but thought she needs something.


She is shedding on her legs as well.

Im confident she's OK.. Ad tried her with tiny crickets and locusts as well as mid sized (all smaller than her eye distance).


I'm assuming it's rehousing and shedding that has done it and she had a good poo yestersday.. Just expecting 30 crickets eaten and seeing none is a shocker.

Any hints or tips would be most welcome...
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Hi, the cloth hammock is useless as a basking object because it doesn`t hold any heat, you need to use something solid such as a flat stone/tile/ bit of plywood, also the ceramic heater is of no use as a "basking" bulb because it directs the heat all around rather than downwards, so you need a more suitable bulb, either a "basking bulb" from the petshop or better still a par 38 FLOOD beam halogen of suitable wattage (try ebay).
You haven`t said what the ambient and basking surface temps are or the humidity range and how you`re measuring all those? At this moment in time food is of little importance, getting the conditions in place to support the dragon is your main priority.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the quick reply... Apologies, the entire setup was suggested and built by the pet shop. The temp range is 35-37 daytime and 18-22 on nighttime. The shop owner advised this is everything I need. I researched before hand, but like most I go by the professionals advise as well.. I can get a humidity measure first thing tomorrow and check the range is between 20-40.

The setup seemed to be the same as he had in his shop.

Large viv, obviously wood with glass front... Tile floor, you've seen the bulb... Uv light full length of viv
 
#7 ·
The petshop clearly have no idea what they`re doing, they will tell you almost anything to make a sale....The UVB tube only needs to be around 2/3rds the enclosure length, the animal must be able to retreat from it whenever it chooses.
The humidity needs to range between approx 30 to 60%+ (the lower figure likely around the basking site, the higher in the cooler parts) no matter what anyone has told you to the contrary, in the wild it can get over 60% quite regularly, especially under the surface of the ground where they spend time both day and obviously nighttime.
You basically need to know two temps; the lowest ambient (air) @ approx 21 to 24c then the basking surface temp @ between approx 38 to 45c (there should be a range so make sure the basking object is relatively large enough to provide that).
 
#8 ·
Thanks.. So tomorrow if I replace the bulb to basking, get the humidity measure and additional cooler section guages as well.. Assuming all setup is done cleanly, would the symptoms ive mentioned in the post just indicate rehousing and skin shedding loss of appetite
 
#9 · (Edited)
Murri is right to suggest changing the basking bulb...it will be causing issues.
Ceramics are radiant heaters, and there isnt enough direction to the heat they give off.
Beardies are also basking lizards, they are very much light-responsive in their basking habits.

You are right about beardies liking height, and it is completely natural for them. Although they are technically classed as Terrestial, they do behave like they are semi-arboreal. Nice wide branches and a raised basking platform will all get used.

At 8 weeks old, it should be eating quite actively, 2 or 3 feeding times with live a day and plenty of small insects. How big are the crickets etc that its eating?
You are right to remember you have only just got it, I would probably give a week without interaction and then slowly build from there. You may even find covering the viv for that week to be beneficial. It sounds a lot like its recognised its in different territory and trying to get out.
Leave some things like mealworms in a worm dish and see if it eats when left alone as well.
If its still not eating after a week when given lots of space, then it would be time to worry, but that assumes the setup is correct, which isnt quite the case here but a few changes and it will be far more suited.

I'm assuming you have a UV tube in there along with the ceramic, depending on the strength you want it set so the distance from the bulb to the basking surface is roughly 12" with a 10.0 or 10% bulb, 15" with a 12% or 18" with a 14% so you need to choose your bulb by looking at the viv dimensions. Aim for bright and well lit one end, and shade in the cool end. Sit the bulb up into the warm end and leave about a third of the viv length as a gap in the cool end.

You want a raised basking area, you can have bits of wood and stone built into something, I would not use the hammock under it though, keep it in the warm end and maybe fit to a corner so it can chill there in warmth but not basking if it wants. The main part under the basking bulb should be stone to help take in heat and remain warm once the bulb goes off in the evening. An adult should be in something no smaller than 4ft by 2ft by 2ft, which would normally mean a 12% UV too (14% are too strong in anything less than 2.5Ft high). I would look at a basking area thats then about 8 to 10 inches from base level, with something like a halogen basking bulb then about 12 inches from the basking area. In the cool end there should be the option of shade, so bits of corkbark that it can climb ontop, or go underneath and shelter are often useful (especially if your UV tube is a bit long). Cover like this is also good for making areas with slightly higher humidity and areas it can digout if you put a proper substrate layer in. But I would leave that until its a few months older.

Set temps from a surface reading of the basking area (aprox 42C to 45C) and an air temp reading in the cool area (keep below 26C and aim more 24C), you want some covered parts/caves/hides which can be anything from building a slate basking area which can have a cave under it, to bits of driftwood, cork bark, branches... what you need to remember is they are not as good at climbing as they think, so no big drops onto stone, avoid fake plants as they have been known to try and eat them, and dont overcrowd it. You want free running space, and encourage it to be active, feed it away from the basking area, make it hunt live prey and chase dont hand feed.

Its appetite will be directly tied to how energised its feeling, which means how effectively it can bask in this case. Soaking in ambient heat is very slow for them, and at this age, you will have the effect of limiting its growth. It wont ever feel properly warmed up and energised, so it wont eat like a horse because its digestion levels are going to be sluggish. You want it bright and well lit (dont use coloured bulbs) as this also stimulates their appetite amongst other things. You will want humidity around 30/35% at basking, a waterbowl in the cool end and then dont be afraid of humidity around 50/60% in any dugouts (with proper substrate) and hiding areas in the cool end. In the wild they dig themselves burrows which are often around 60% and hold heat during the night. I would recommend a light misting in the mornings and focus a few pumps into any cave bits or hiding areas as well, they are from arid areas, but they shouldnt be kept bonedry.

I understand you may see the pet store as "being the professionals" but I cannot express how far that is from the truth in a HUGE amount of cases, its rare to get a genuinely good pet store, and I mean that.
The setup they've "advised" is not suited.
 
#10 ·
Thanks azastral... Your comment about the heat and energy level and appetite makes sense.. As I was reading she jumped off and chased, caught and ate one mid sized cricket and has had a little green and fruit, then decided to chill out... So perhaps the bulb and heat level is the defining issue.. I'll replace the bulb tomorrow and get the humidity monitor and reorganise the viv as your advice...

FYI.. The vivs 120cm and 12% uvb output.. T5 tube... Ive used both 4th and 3rd size crickets from 3mm to 1.5cm longish... She's only eating when hunting which is great but only. Eating one or two means fishing the rest out... So I need practise.. But obviously the important bit is she's fed a smuch as she needs
 
#13 ·
Thanks all...

I've installed new 100w basking spot approx 12 inches from new rocks that are flat, cleaned.

Beardie went straight too it jumped on then after around 10 mins waved her arm and tail went into alert pose... She then went and cause a few crickets and worms... So definitely the most active I've seen her...

Is the alert pose expected in your opinions... Maybe a rush of energy as firs time feeling basking light as shop didn't use them...

Also I moved her hammock to another area, she waved again and jumped on it...
 
#15 ·
With a young dragon, i would expect it to be alert most the time and very active, basking and hunting.
Nothing to stop you popping the odd insect in for her to chase, its something to be encouraged and if shes nicely warmed up she'll be more inclined to chase after food.

I would completely avoid hand feeding altogether when this young, for months. The more active they are the better.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top